I just welded my Jack Handle together. After you put the jacks together..who ever really takes them back apart? Nobody I have ever seen. But all good points shoptowel.

stumpy2

 

I wouldn'tve welded them together... but I have the exact same jack and we have a "Quick Clip" in it... its a pin type thing you use on lawnmower trailers alot.
As far as "who takes them apart"
I JUST took it apart today... We were changing wheels on one of our 66 trucks, and we got to close to the wall on one side so the long handle was to long... unclip, and you got a shorter jack handle... Sure beats moving the truck... IMHO

 

Just bought one on ebay, unfortunately it was for $79.95 not $59.95. Had to add shipping $49.00 extra. Looks like a solid jack, I will let you know in a day or two how it holds up as complared to my 40 year old Walker J122, which worked in hot or cold. A real work horse. The only reason I replaced it was for the pitted piston which after 40 years started to leak.

Also just bought a Sears Craftsman 3 ton Model No. 875.501390 which works great and seems to have good quality. China built. $89 on sale, comes with sit down seat and tool caddy with two 3 ton jack stands.

Looked at OTC 3 ton, lots more money but it is solid and is USA built.

 

Our michelin is starting to wear out, Had it less tahn 6 months
already starting to seep down with some weight on it

 

check on the side of the pump cyl. there should be a screw that says do not adjust. this should be adjusted to control the max drop rate. either for the to fast or to slow jacks.

 

It has nothign to do with it being to fast or to slow
It leaks down while holding something up

 

I saw that same deal at the sears here. They had just the jack itself for sale right next to it for $15 more. Great marketing.

 

I bought the Sears jack too. It looks a little funny not as long as my other jack and the swivel wheels do not have twin (top and bottom) bearings. My biggest complaint is that you have to turn the release nearly a full turn before it starts to drop and when it does it coming down. To stop it you have to close it all the way. Very unsafe IMHO. I plan to take it back if I can't adjust it.

 

I've had the Michelin jack for about a month now and I love it. It has no problem holding my F350 in the air all day. Now I juct have to get some jack stands that are high enough lol.

 

You'll see whats up with the Michelin in another month or so, the one we got turned out to be POS and it was awesome when we first got it

 

I bought a penske 2-1/2 ton jack about 3 or 4 years ago and it still works great, 2 stage pump so I just pump once and it's up to the axle or so. I got it on sale about 65 bucks.

 

My old Walker floor jack (from the 1960's) finally needed a rebuild. So in the meentime I too bought a Michelin from Sam's. It works well, except for two things;
The handle doesn't fold over the jack...gonna take care of that (thanks shoptowel) & It's really hard to screw the handle in to make it pump up. Maybe it needs lube somewhere? I bought a rubber saddle for it at a car show, which works well.

MR

 

I have gotten 2 of these jacks for use in the shop....they are the exact same jack as the one available from NAPA, but for about $30 less.

 

Have had my Michelin 3 1/2 Ton floor jack for 3 years ago, was not a regular use item until about a year ago when we bought our home. After 6 months of daily use, the jack would lift anything, yet slowly drop if you were not pumping the handle.

I ended up buying another jack at a home-foreclosing sale. Been using that instead, but does not lift as high or lift as fast. Also, wheels don't move as freely as the Michelin. Came to the conclusion, if I try repairing the jack and mess something up, what am I out, a jack that did not work anyway?

Very simple concept I thought about: Take things apart slowly and re-install them as soon as you don't need to deal with them any more.

What I did:

(1.) Remove hydraulic cylinder from jack.
(2.) Drain fluid.
(3.) Remove u-joint/ lowering screw and ball-bearing.
- methodical part-
(4.) Remove screws labeled "DO NOT ADJUST", 1 at a time, wipe everything off (springs, ball-bearings, etc.), and re-install. As I did, make a mark next to the screw to re-align it. Make notes on scrap paper of how far below or above "flush" the screw is. Count the turns on the way out. O-rings may need to be replaced if cut when re-installing.
(4 1/2). I took the cylinder apart itself; large pipe wrench, cheater pipe, and a little firm persuasion. This does not have to be done, IMO. After getting it apart, did not see anything apparent.
(5.) Re-assemble cylinder if not already done.
(6.) Attempt filling jack with hydraulic fluid before re-installing in jack. This is done slowly, with a little patience, working plunger to pull fluid in, releasing lowering screw to push the plunger back in, and repeat. Like I said, takes some time, but goes easily.
(7.) After getting as much in as possible, install cylinder in jack.
(8.) Handle will act as if there is something wrong, air still needs to be bled out. This simply done by operating the jack, up and down several times. This natural usage pushes fluid into the cylinder and on the down stroke, pushes air out. Add fluid as necessary.
(9.) Finally, try operating the jack with a load.

Conclusion. In my case, the jack was dropping probably due to just a little dirt/debris getting on the seat of one of the check valves. Cleaning each check valve and replacing the fluid seemed to take care of this. Hope this helps someone else in the future.

 

I have one from about 8 years ago and was $200 ish works great. does anyone sell just the adaptor blocks for tall vehicals?