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Do you still have the old flywheel that came off the new engine? My guess is that the offset of the ring gear is a different depth. If you're spacing the starter out then the ring gear needs to be located further in. (ring gear further towards the rear)

Why didn't you use the flywheel that came with the new engine?

You should be able to measure both flywheels to see. With the problem you are having it should be visible to the naked eye; based on the nut you are spacing it out with.

If you have no other choice than to space it out then you need to take some 1/4 inch steel plate and cut a proper spacer that gives the starter firm support. There's a lot of force there and those nuts don't cut it.

There must be some 6cyl guy's here that have done this swap before....

Maybe post the question in this engine forum: Ford Inline Six, 200, 250, 4.9L / 300 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Best of luck!
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hi.

yes i think you are right.

I swap the engine over a week end, the truck needed to run on the monday AM.

when i looked at both flywheel, i could not see a difference, other then rust.

so i put the flywheel that appeared to be the smoothest.

it look like I need to pull it out.

G

 

What was the flywheel off of that you used with the new engine?

 

A friend of mine gave me

a 1976 300 I6
a T19 tranny.
the flywheel (seperate )
and a clucht ( also seperate)

both flywheel and clutch look old and rusty.

when i took my engine out 78 300 I6, with a 3 tree tranny.

i took the flywheel from the 78 and the clutch and put it in the 76........

even thought i looked at both flywheel , i must of miss something,

so it look like, or i built a proper spacer for now , and at christams time i swap flywheel.

 

Did you have the flywheel resurfaced before you put it in the truck? Also, make sure that the flywheel is off of another 300.

 

FWIW,

I have not read through all of the posts but I will share what I think I know.

You need to match the Windsor style engine plate, zero balance flywheel which could be 157 or 164 tooth, which I think are just about .4" difference in diameter, and bellhousing, which can have a different block to transmission dimension. Many different transmissions have the same bolt pattern dimensions but different input shaft lengths. You may need to watch the front bearing cover for clearance issues. From there you have to match pressure plate and clutch 10" or 11", which I believe you can use on either flywheel. More teeth, bigger clutch usually go with the larger engines or truck applications but all can be mixed if matched correctly barring firewall clearance issues. I believe the starters may have different nose cones but I am not certain.

This may just make it more confusing than I already have because it is about the SB V8 which uses 28 or 50 OZ. balance flywheels but it has some cool pics...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...confusion.html

I have a pile of parts at home if/when I get time I will try to dig them out and make measurements of what I have. I also have some links which I will supply. If I can sort them out. Now would you like to talk about the auto trans configurations available .

I have gone through all of this as I go through my FFR Roadster kit build. I started out with an old T-10 and now have an AODE bolted in it. The kit is designed for the SB Ford/t-56 but I just had to have my BB six in it and ended up with the auto trans.

Please correct any misinformation I have stated as I will as I dig through my stuff.

OOPS, forgot to mention about the different T.B./T.V. configurations.

Jim

 

Thanks Jim; "diameter" I bet that's it.

.

 

You can get these starter shims at N.A.P.A. , i used one on a 302. You can stack them together until it positions the starter at the right place. The starter nose that goes in the housing is about 3/8 of an inch longer on a auto trany starter than a standard one. You may be trying to use the longest one. I have ran in to this problems with the 289 and 302 engines.

 

^^^^ this is where I was eventually going, but he beat me to it.