I recently replaced my flywheel and starter, among other things. With all new parts, I'm trying to figure out why my starter still grinds occasionally. The teeth on the flywheel and starter looked good when I put them in, and the starter still looked good after I pulled it and reinstalled. I've only started the truck 5-10 times so far, but want to get this issue resolved before I start breaking teeth. Any thoughts as to what could be causing it? Both bolts are torqued to spec.

 

Just had a thought....is it possible I got a starter for an automatic instead of a manual? On Napa's website, the starters appear to be the same, but it's a different part number. How bad would the grinding be if I have the wrong tooth count - i.e. mismatched starter/flywheel combo. Would the grinding be terrible and obvious?

 

This is one of the best tutorials I've seen that someone linked to recently:

http://www.bcbroncos.com/ford%20starters.pdf

 

Wow, that answers it. Until I confirm I have the right starter tonight, there is not much more to do. Thank you very much.

 

Update: Here is a link to the part that Napa sold me:


NAPA AUTO PARTS


It's a 180 tooth flywheel. The options in the PDF above are 157 or 164 teeth. Can somebody please help me source a starter that will work with the flywheel I just put in? I don't have the energy to pull the transmission again anytime soon!!!


The starter they sold me with the flywheel is this one:


NAPA AUTO PARTS

 

I called one of the more seasoned employees at Napa and he admits they sold me the WRONG F_ING FLYWHEEL! In addition to having too many teeth, it's got the starter ring recessed like in an automatic....can I use the automatic starter on this flywheel and call it good? I don't know how the tooth size is measured on the starter itself. Assuming the starter gear protrudes the correct distance to mate with the flywheel gears, will the same starter gear work for 180 tooth flywheel as well as a 157 tooth?

 

I'm sorry, but its got to come out. There are just so many things that would go wrong trying that.

 

Well, I've got a 1 year warranty on the flywheel and the Napa guys said they'd honor it if I mess my flywheel up trying to find the right starter, so I'm going to try the 10-tooth automatic starter and see where that gets me. I have nothing to lose at this point and I'd rather swap starters than swap flywheels again. I'll let you know how it goes....not the ideal route, but definitely a lot more labor-effective.

 

The correct flywheel has an effect on engine balance & wear on the thrust bearing on your crank. Both can take out the bottom end of your engine.

Take it out. Put the correct parts in.

 

The flywheel I currently have in there with 180 teeth is for a ford 460, just not my specific setup. If I leave it in, what issues could I potentially have assuming the flywheel fits a 460? Differences in crankshaft balancing for different years? Internal vs. external balancing?

 

The specifics of your 460 & situation, I don't have a clue other than what I posted. Maybe somebody else will chime in. You are chasing one problem & risking multiplying issues by a large factor by trying to get by.

 

My old flywheel is a 180 tooth 1979 externally balanced flywheel. Same thing went back in, so whatever problems I had before are the same as now......I think I ordered the correct 10-tooth starter. Will update tomorrow.

Scndsin, I don't mean to blow off your suggestions or second-guess you. I appreciate the advice and try to respect the experience of others whenever I can. My circumstances (no transmission jack and nobody to help) preclude me from pulling the transmission again anytime soon. I had to invite my mechanic brother-in-law from out of town to get the transmission pulled this last time and I don't want to take advantage of him. All that to say, I need to make the starter match my current flywheel at least for the next few months. In the next year, I hope to pull the engine and rebuild anyway, so I can adress it at that point. FOr now, just wanting to keep the truck on the road so I can haul manure a few times a month.

 

Not a problem, good man. Just trying to be honest & I wish you the best of luck.

 

Problem solved. I painted the starter pinion gear, installed it, started the truck, then removed the starter to see where the gear was engaging. Turns out the gear was going way too far, bottoming out and almost going past the flywheel. I added a 3/16" spacer which put the gear right in line with the flywheel. The starter sounds much smoother and the grinding has gone away. Also notice the stud I welded into the bell housing. The threads in the bellhousing were stripped so this is my solution. Thanks to all for your help!

 

Hey folks, it's been a long time but I'm back! I'm getting really frustrated with my starter situation. Where I currently stand: On my 4th (or 5th) starter, I kept breaking starter gears. New battery, new cables all around, new ground straps, new solenoid on the fender. Used a helicoil kit to repair the stripped thread in the transmission so I am now using stock bolts to attach the starter. The plate between the engine and transmission is installed. I have tried with/without shim. I was not having any grinding issues until this weekend. First time I fired it up I had a slight grind but it started no problem. At the gas station, went to start it back up and it sounded like I had busted another starter gear - the grinding was loud and ugly! To my surprise, I pulled the starter and the gear looks great. My ring gear has gotten a little bit worn on the edges, but no broken teeth, nothing terrible looking. I ordered a mini starter but am baffled as to why I keep eating starters on a monthly basis.


I read somewhere that having the wrong timing can be hard on a starter - I have tuned the timing to 10*, but should I consider advancing or retarding the timing to help the starter along? Seems like a stretch, but I'm willing to try anything at this point.