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Dash Removal and extra questions

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Old Nov 25, 2011 | 10:54 PM
  #1  
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Dash Removal and extra questions

Hey everyone,
Well found out I have the dreaded blend door issue, but I don't have a blower in the center console. Have to take apart the entire dash. I have a manual, but it's not hitting everything like it should. I know that I have seen a link on here for step by step, but have searched on here on and off for hours while taking breaks from taking apart the dash. Anyone have that link or can help? Also, it says that my steering wheel must be in the locked position during the final removal of the dash or damage to the airbag sliding contact will occur, except mine won't lock. Is this an absolute have to on this? Last question, CANNOT get my ignition switch electrical connector to pull out from the ignition switch box. I don't see a clip, pin or anything. It has a gray cover that has a bolt, have spun that all the way and it's not making any difference. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I really need to get this finished before the snow comes or I won't be able to see without heat/defrost.
Thanks!
 
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Old Nov 25, 2011 | 11:11 PM
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84bimmer
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Originally Posted by Lookeee
Also, it says that my steering wheel must be in the locked position during the final removal of the dash or damage to the airbag sliding contact will occur, except mine won't lock. Is this an absolute have to on this?
I don't know about this particular application. I'm writing about general knowledge of most vehicles.

I'm guessing that the steering wheel is going to be removed. The sliding contact is a clockspring. They are easily damaged, but I don't see why locking the steering wheel is a must. Most steering wheels only go on one way, usually there is a keyway. Some are not like this however, and can be put on anyway, ie, not the way it came off. Just mark the shaft and wheel with a paint marker to let yourself know where it goes. And DO NOT TURN the steering wheel once the clockspring is removed. When you put the clockspring back on, have the wheels straight and the steering wheel centered. There are additional steps to installing a clockspring that are usually printed on the part itself.

And a friendly reminder: ALWAYS DISCONNECT THE BATTERY, then wait 2 minutes when working with airbag systems.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2011 | 12:08 AM
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Thank you so much. I found that dash removal by a guy in the f150 section who is a mechanic and took off the dash to change the blend door on a navigator and he was adamant about locking the wheel because of damage to the clockspring. I was worried I was going to have to put the ignition key back in and the go try to find a new ignition switch for it so it will lock. I remember seeing people take off their older steering wheels and marking at 12 o clock. But the manual makes it seem much worse d/t the airbag.

And yes, I HAVE to take the entire column off. Still can't figure out how to get that stupid ignition switch electrical connector out of the ignition switch. I've tried everything and can't get the darn thing to unplug.

I really appreciate your help, thanks again!!!
 
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 09:45 AM
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The steering column on my '01 dropped to the floor and did not have to come off. Be careful not to pinch or bind anything when it is raised back and bolted on. Check the you tube video for "Ford Expedition heater core removal". Also read http://motogrrl.com/blog/wp-content/...CoreRepair.pdf . I had concern about locking the steering wheel but was advised by both sources that the shifter needs to be in "1" (low) for this service.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 11:10 AM
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Or you could take the quicker and easier way using one of the "through the glove box" methods like Heater Treater. When I finally have the issue I'm going to go that route, assuming my free time / vehicle down time is in a similar tight spot like it is now.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 03:39 PM
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Thank you Bad Ronald and alwaysford41. I would have loved to do the heatertreater thing, but with snow coming and this is my kid vehicle I have to be able to see out the windows to drive; also with twin 3 yr olds, a 5 yr old and a husband with cancer I have a very limited timeframe and budget. It would have taken too long to get the part and then I needed the extra holiday time. Bad Ronald, considering that I went ahead and did it after asking a service guy....hoping it doesn't have to be in 1, cause I would be in trouble. LOL.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 04:17 PM
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The only reason it should "have to be in 1" is to allow you to remove pieces of the dash. You can move it around as needed.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 10:09 AM
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Ronald, too funny. I never looked at it after I disconnected the cable under the dash but it automatically goes to one when you do, so I got lucky. Was a witch getting that bolt in the squeeze harness, but we got it in. So I now have heat, course the blower had stopped working before that. Ahe had a leaking windshield (imagine that, on an expy), and let it go for over a year. So all the water came down in the dash and the fuse box has corroded. None of them blown, but before I replaced he blend door I took all the relevant fuses out and scraped them down hoping it would work. It did, but not for very long. So no blower....got all new fuses and the connector cleaner spray. Hoping it will work or I'll have the replace the fuse box next. Appreciate your help.
 
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