Whistleing sound When i step on the gas....
#1
11-25-2011, 05:47 PM
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Location: Califorina , Cypress
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Whistleing sound When i step on the gas....
this is my problem... when the hood is up.. and a Rev the engine using the throttle linkage there is no Whistling .. when I am in side the Cab and Give it gas i hear a Huge Whistling sound.. i am going to assume its a vacuum leak..
Sounds like its coming though the front of the dash where the Speedometer is.. It also Sputters and Chokes up just a bit when its whistling..
any Advice .. on finding these things or figuring it out thanks
jayson
Sounds like its coming though the front of the dash where the Speedometer is.. It also Sputters and Chokes up just a bit when its whistling..
any Advice .. on finding these things or figuring it out thanks
jayson
#2
11-25-2011, 07:56 PM
#5
11-27-2011, 09:45 AM
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#6
11-27-2011, 12:04 PM
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#7
11-27-2011, 12:16 PM
You didn't post the model year in question here.
3-4" pedal travel sounds tad excessive, are your rear shoes adjusted up correctly?
Do you happen to own a hand vac? if so you could pull a vac on the main line into the cab, see if it "holds". If it does you know everything in there is OK problem is elsewhere. If not you know the problem is under the dash at some point.
3-4" pedal travel sounds tad excessive, are your rear shoes adjusted up correctly?
Do you happen to own a hand vac? if so you could pull a vac on the main line into the cab, see if it "holds". If it does you know everything in there is OK problem is elsewhere. If not you know the problem is under the dash at some point.
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#8
11-27-2011, 01:20 PM
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Sry , its my 1993 f-350 Ext Cab 8 foot bed, 500cu v8 19 inch lift.
Most people know me on here.. sry forgot to post specs.
I rebuilt my engine last year everything is fine on that aspect.
I dont have a vac tester,, but i will pick one up...
also my brake seem to work fine.. i have no problems Stopping my 44 inch tires. and i had a 800 dollar brake job done to it last year. and everything checked out...
I am just not sure where the whistling is coming from Grrr
i cant drive my truck because on take off it sputters and almost dies.
jayson
Most people know me on here.. sry forgot to post specs.
I rebuilt my engine last year everything is fine on that aspect.
I dont have a vac tester,, but i will pick one up...
also my brake seem to work fine.. i have no problems Stopping my 44 inch tires. and i had a 800 dollar brake job done to it last year. and everything checked out...
I am just not sure where the whistling is coming from Grrr
i cant drive my truck because on take off it sputters and almost dies.
jayson
#9
11-27-2011, 01:40 PM
Yea I recognize your name and know your truck just didn't recall its year.
44" tires tend take lining off faster and self adjusters don't always function as they should, pedal travel at 4" would be excessive and does tend suggest the rears need a manual adjustment a minute to reduce that pedal travel.
Makes the rears act sooner ensuring they take share of the work load off the fronts as they should, if left unchecked and they are out of adjustment the fronts will over heat and warp because of it. You'll end up with the dreaded pedal pulse.
Not to say 100% that your rear are out, just your statements suggest they might be and only takes couple minutes with a spoon to check.
No need to lift it up, use brake spoon to attempt drift star wheel fore and aft, if moves more then 3/32 of an inch then adjustment should be made. Turn star wheel taking up some slack until can no longer drift the wheel more then that approx distance. If the drums are "True" you can and should go tighter then that, just don't go to "Zero".
I do/check both of mine all the time, one or both sides always fail to self adjust as they should even though hardware is in good shape.
44" tires tend take lining off faster and self adjusters don't always function as they should, pedal travel at 4" would be excessive and does tend suggest the rears need a manual adjustment a minute to reduce that pedal travel.
Makes the rears act sooner ensuring they take share of the work load off the fronts as they should, if left unchecked and they are out of adjustment the fronts will over heat and warp because of it. You'll end up with the dreaded pedal pulse.
Not to say 100% that your rear are out, just your statements suggest they might be and only takes couple minutes with a spoon to check.
No need to lift it up, use brake spoon to attempt drift star wheel fore and aft, if moves more then 3/32 of an inch then adjustment should be made. Turn star wheel taking up some slack until can no longer drift the wheel more then that approx distance. If the drums are "True" you can and should go tighter then that, just don't go to "Zero".
I do/check both of mine all the time, one or both sides always fail to self adjust as they should even though hardware is in good shape.
#10
11-28-2011, 02:10 PM
Join Date: Jan 2010
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Yea I recognize your name and know your truck just didn't recall its year.
44" tires tend take lining off faster and self adjusters don't always function as they should, pedal travel at 4" would be excessive and does tend suggest the rears need a manual adjustment a minute to reduce that pedal travel.
Makes the rears act sooner ensuring they take share of the work load off the fronts as they should, if left unchecked and they are out of adjustment the fronts will over heat and warp because of it. You'll end up with the dreaded pedal pulse.
Not to say 100% that your rear are out, just your statements suggest they might be and only takes couple minutes with a spoon to check.
No need to lift it up, use brake spoon to attempt drift star wheel fore and aft, if moves more then 3/32 of an inch then adjustment should be made. Turn star wheel taking up some slack until can no longer drift the wheel more then that approx distance. If the drums are "True" you can and should go tighter then that, just don't go to "Zero".
I do/check both of mine all the time, one or both sides always fail to self adjust as they should even though hardware is in good shape.
44" tires tend take lining off faster and self adjusters don't always function as they should, pedal travel at 4" would be excessive and does tend suggest the rears need a manual adjustment a minute to reduce that pedal travel.
Makes the rears act sooner ensuring they take share of the work load off the fronts as they should, if left unchecked and they are out of adjustment the fronts will over heat and warp because of it. You'll end up with the dreaded pedal pulse.
Not to say 100% that your rear are out, just your statements suggest they might be and only takes couple minutes with a spoon to check.
No need to lift it up, use brake spoon to attempt drift star wheel fore and aft, if moves more then 3/32 of an inch then adjustment should be made. Turn star wheel taking up some slack until can no longer drift the wheel more then that approx distance. If the drums are "True" you can and should go tighter then that, just don't go to "Zero".
I do/check both of mine all the time, one or both sides always fail to self adjust as they should even though hardware is in good shape.
jayson
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