When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I started up my 76 f-250, with a 390fe, a couple days ago and just had a major lack of power. after messing around for a little bit I did a compression test, and discovered that cylinder #1 had NO compression at all. I did the oil test to see if it was my rings and still had nothing. So according to my research it has something to do with the valves.
So I removed the valve cover and the push rod wasn't moving at all, but it looks good as does everything else. according to what i have found on line it COULD be the lifter.
So my questions are Could this really be the problem? Can I pull the lifter without pulling the intake? And if i can any hints on how?
Its only one rod, but yes its just not moving at all. The engine isn't that old less then 6k on it but it has quite a bit of down time. I know it could be the valves but I am really hoping its just the one lifter.
X2 on wiped cam lobe. Modern oils are not formulated for flat tappet engines, they are designed to be used in roller tappet engines.
Thanks to an EPA mandate, the oil companies have removed the phosphorus and zinc additives from their oil (ZZDP). These are extreme pressure additives that are mandatory for the flat tappet engines. Without it the lobe can go flat in less than 8000 miles and the tappets can actually have holes wear in the bottom.
So i got it. It was a faulty lifter..... i was able to fish the lifter out with a long pick with a right angle at the end. i lubed up a new lifter and dropped in and put it back together and had 145 psi right off the bat. Thanks All
Modern oils are not formulated for flat tappet engines, they are designed to be used in roller tappet engines.
Thanks to an EPA mandate, the oil companies have removed the phosphorus and zinc additives from their oil (ZZDP). These are extreme pressure additives that are mandatory for the flat tappet engines.
I believe it was the plunger. I was able to push the rod down by hand on that lifter but on all the rest I wasn't. After I pulled it it looked the same as the new lifter. I couldn't see a difference. But it works now so I am happy
I believe it was the plunger. I was able to push the rod down by hand on that lifter but on all the rest I wasn't. After I pulled it it looked the same as the new lifter. I couldn't see a difference. But it works now so I am happy
That doesn't even make much sense, has the engine been rebuilt? Even with a collapsed lifter it should have some lift...
Well I am a major newbe at this stuff but, from what I understand about the lifter is that it is a hydraulic lifter so it has to pump/fill up with oil. The one that was bad wasn't holding any oil. The spring would depress when I pushed down and it would recoil when I let off. All the rest where filled with oil so I couldn't push the rods down by hand. Again it's now running great with the same compression as the rest of the cylinders so I am happy.
Oh it is a rebuild, but it was down before I bought it so I can't answer to what was done
Which one would you guys recommend for our colder climates up here in Alaska, the 10w30 or the 15w40? I suspect either would work okay.
When it's like -40? You guys up there should have access to some pretty nifty Winter grade oils we just don't have access to here.
I would run Rotella 5W40 in a daily driver, and 10W30 in something lightly used that also had some sort of heater.
But like I said you should have access to some awesome Canadian Rotella, Mobil and Deere and many more who offer 0W40 diesel oil, but it's hard to get in the lower 48.
If I had the access I would easily run Rotella 0W40 even in Colorado for my 1987 2.9 Ranger in the Winter months!!!
But, we don't have it and the shipping would probably be retarded.