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Best affordable hei distributor

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  #46  
Old 11-27-2011, 06:42 AM
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I know this is off topic. But... Don't sell it. Find another way to deal with whatever issue you are having. I sold my 71 camper special beater over 6 years ago I still kick myself in the but for that one.
Either way thanks all for the kind words on the engine bay. Alot of work went into that sucker. Including removing no less than 60 feet of wire. I filled up a whole trash can cleaning up previous owners bull$$&@.
 
  #47  
Old 11-27-2011, 11:52 AM
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Ok that's it! I'm moving back to Alaska. All you guys are making me homesick.
 
  #48  
Old 11-27-2011, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by akforceten
Ok that's it! I'm moving back to Alaska. All you guys are making me homesick.
Come on back Brother.
A round is on me.
 
  #49  
Old 11-27-2011, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by dirtynorth49
Yes,11.9v with the key on and 13.7v with truck running.Yeah i have just allways used a test light now i got a multi meter im checking every thing.I am just not fimilar with what there suppose to read and where but with the help off all you guys this forum is awsome.All the ding dongs up here in AK can hardly tie there shoe's at the shade tree shops.So there no help. Some of the jerry rigging you see is unbelievable.As said in previous posts.Its nice to see good craftsmanship.Ferm believer in doing it right the first time.Thanks for clearing all this up for me guys.I with post pic of the finished product.My motor dont Quite look is immaculate as co 425 LOL
This is why I try not to post exact voltage readings. Many things can factor in, such as battery condition, alternator output, load and the fact you go thru many connections that may or may not be 100% up to par. Even the connection you use for your ground lead on meter.
 
  #50  
Old 11-27-2011, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by dirtynorth49
Mine is round with two clips on each side that are a pita to unhook,balled up under the dash.And way more wires/colors.I will get it out one way or another.
I'm sure you would have or already have figured it out, but I got some pics from another member (Thanks John) that might help.

In one pic you can see the little tab that needs to be pryed back and in the other pic you can see how it locks into the spade connector. You might also try warming it up a bit with either a hair dryer or a heat gun to make the plastic a little less brittle.

Hope these help.



 
  #51  
Old 11-28-2011, 01:47 AM
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Originally Posted by AK FORD GUY
I'm sure you would have or already have figured it out, but I got some pics from another member (Thanks John) that might help.

In one pic you can see the little tab that needs to be pryed back and in the other pic you can see how it locks into the spade connector. You might also try warming it up a bit with either a hair dryer or a heat gun to make the plastic a little less brittle.

Hope these help.



Perfect,i knew there was a clip,that is exactly what i needed.Man i must need my eyes checked.
 
  #52  
Old 11-28-2011, 01:48 AM
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Originally Posted by akforceten
Ok that's it! I'm moving back to Alaska. All you guys are making me homesick.
Come on back,you ll be right at home with that calicoe cat plow truck,looks like mine.
 
  #53  
Old 11-28-2011, 01:54 AM
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Originally Posted by co425
I know this is off topic. But... Don't sell it. Find another way to deal with whatever issue you are having. I sold my 71 camper special beater over 6 years ago I still kick myself in the but for that one.
Either way thanks all for the kind words on the engine bay. Alot of work went into that sucker. Including removing no less than 60 feet of wire. I filled up a whole trash can cleaning up previous owners bull$$&@.
Yeah,i have way more in time invested then i could ever get,plus every thing i have ever sold i kick my self in the a**. Im re thinking my situation.
 
  #54  
Old 11-28-2011, 01:57 AM
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Originally Posted by co425
You have to swap the thermostat housing for the one with a flat in the side of it. I still had to clearance mine a little bit 1/16" or so. Davis Unified Ignition sells the proper one for 460's.
I do have the housing with the flat spot on it. I would need to clearance it at least another 1/8 just to get the body of the dizzy to clear. Then, I'd have to take off another 3/16 to 1/4 just for the cap to clear. Not enough meat on the housing to do that.

The only way for it to clear, is to build one. Machine a mounting flange and have a piece of pipe come off it at a 45* angle.
 
  #55  
Old 11-28-2011, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by ATC Crazy
I do have the housing with the flat spot on it. I would need to clearance it at least another 1/8 just to get the body of the dizzy to clear. Then, I'd have to take off another 3/16 to 1/4 just for the cap to clear. Not enough meat on the housing to do that.

The only way for it to clear, is to build one. Machine a mounting flange and have a piece of pipe come off it at a 45* angle.
Expensive but this would give you the room you need. http://www.meziere.com/ps-437-406-wn0013s.aspx Thought about buying one anyway myself.
 
  #56  
Old 01-17-2012, 10:44 PM
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Finally got my hei installed and it runs better then ever.Timing set 12 BTDC and wow im am sold on the snap and the way this thing lights off.Even at -20 below this morning,I barely touch the key and boom.I will post Pictures when I get the intake oil leak fixed and motor washed up here soon.I have to say though 14" air cleaner wont work.Other then that no clearence issues.
 
  #57  
Old 01-20-2012, 02:03 AM
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Heh, Im sorry for laughing but I find it silly that you had to buy a great distributor for $47 bucks, it must be great quality! And it doesn't fit without using a specific thermostat housing that needs grinding to clear that big dumb chevy cap, with known issues from years ago.
Not to mention the wiring problems, not huge issues, but just sayin!
The ONLY reason it works good is because of the actual HEI module, which can be hidden, and kept in a cooler place with heat sinks, which chevy never did do(seems I remember the general even suggesting moving the HEI module away from the dizzy, with a heat sink). Sure it worked, but what does sensitive electronics hate? Heat and Vibration...
I'll stick to my factory Ford adjustable distributor-centrifugal and vacuum, with proper cap and wires and magnetic pickup. They are adjustable, and do not require grinding to fit. Not to mention proper ignition lead fitment, and ease of service.
 
  #58  
Old 01-20-2012, 03:11 AM
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Personal opinions are like *******s every one has one...
 
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