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Best affordable hei distributor

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  #16  
Old 11-25-2011, 03:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Rory428
Personally, I like the Ford Duraspark setup much better than the GM HEI adapted to a Ford with that big ugly cap. I`ve been a mechanic for over 30 years, and in the 80`s, we changed a lot more modules, caps, rotors and coils on GM HEI distributors than either Fords or MoPar electronic ignitions. With all the HEI hardware trapped under that big dist. cap, heat relaed failures were very common with GM HEI`s. Other than my stock 59 Ford, which has points, my other 4 older Fords all have DuraSpark dists, and I`ve never had a problem with any of them, 2 of these vehicles I`ve owned for well over 20 years. As for ignition modules, I`d rather have an original Ford box than a replacement auto parts store unit.
Its -10 out side right now and tops 70 in the summer.I dont see me creating the heat up here as you might in the lower 48.Just a thought
But valid points, havent had probs with my other two 70;s trucks duraspark but im gonna give it a whirl.
 
  #17  
Old 11-25-2011, 03:10 AM
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I really have allready made up my mind since the dura spark has pissed me off.I have read till my eyes burn bickering about what is better.I just want what is simple,clean and fire;s off good at fricken -20 below and gives good spark .plus my ignition system is shot...Doesnt seem like rocket science to me. JMO
 
  #18  
Old 11-25-2011, 08:51 AM
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http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=54070966694

Best modification I ever did to my 78
 
  #19  
Old 11-25-2011, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by ATC Crazy
I bought a Summit Racing HEI unit for my 460 earlier this year. Doesn't fit. I need to machine and weld up a new thermostat housing to get enough clearance. Those HEI's are BIG!


Why the hell do they sell them if they don't fit is what I'm wondering?!
You have to swap the thermostat housing for the one with a flat in the side of it. I still had to clearance mine a little bit 1/16" or so. Davis Unified Ignition sells the proper one for 460's.
 
  #20  
Old 11-25-2011, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by co425
I run a davis DUI and am completly happy with it. I have a bus fuse block under the hood. 4 ga cable from the solinoid to the fuse box. The fuse box powers my headlight relays, the horn relay and my ignition relay. I took a key on hot from the ignition switch to a hidden kill switch that then trips my ignition relay. Ten gauge wire from the fuse block to the relay to the distributer.
co425 - That looks like a sweet set-up. What ignition wire did you use to trip your relay? I was not sure which wire had power in the "start" and "run" position.

Can you also post a clear pic of your additional fuse box. I think that is the route I am going as well, as I still have a few things to add to the truck that will need a fused power supply.
 
  #21  
Old 11-25-2011, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by dirtynorth49
Before this ignition system problem only thing i knew about electrical was i didnt want to get none on me.
Smart man, I feel the same way.

I only got a D.U.I. Distributor because I found a used one with real low miles for a good price locally. I contacted Performance Distributors with the ID number and supplied the specs for my truck and they said it will work fine in my truck as long as I don't tow a real heavy load.
Great customer service.
 
  #22  
Old 11-25-2011, 09:04 PM
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Good info,I have a 360,351m and 460 all in different trucks.Im sure i will be using this new dui in a 460 later down the road when get my hands on another wrecked truck with a bigblock for my 79.I have to say the 351 isnt really lighting the world on fire.I ve got intake,eled carb,headers/duals and now this dui coming snail mail to AK.

Still trying to fight and get the red,blue hot wire out of the ignition switch plug, the "resistor wire" ties in to the plug.right now i just have a wire spliced in to about 1" on restistor wire hanging out of the igntion switch plug from when i cut the resistor wire out.I was trying to push the wire out with a pick but didnt want to break my ignition switch plug,This why i am asking where every one is tieing in to 12v power.Like i said i want the easyiest set up,no extra fuse boxes and do dads,toggles and such..That resistor wire is wierd and very small to be tieing in normal guage wire to,is there a trick to get the wires out of the plug or just get rough and tough with it..
 
  #23  
Old 11-25-2011, 09:59 PM
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I don't remember which one is which but the red wire and white wire going to the Duraspark box are 12 volt. One energizes with the starter and the other one is 12 volt run.
 
  #24  
Old 11-25-2011, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by AK FORD GUY
co425 - That looks like a sweet set-up. What ignition wire did you use to trip your relay? I was not sure which wire had power in the "start" and "run" position.

Can you also post a clear pic of your additional fuse box. I think that is the route I am going as well, as I still have a few things to add to the truck that will need a fused power supply.
I'll post up a pic tomorrow of the fuse block when I get some sun.

As far as the hot to trip the relay use your hot coil wire it's hot with the key in run and start. Pretty much everything else you can cap off or remove.
 
  #25  
Old 11-25-2011, 10:34 PM
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Thanks co425.

dirtynorth49 - As said from Scot above (and confirmed from a member of another site). Try the white wire that was originally plugged into the Duraspark box. I think it was paired with a red wire and they both shared an oval shaped plug. Try that wire with your volt meter and see if it gets 12 volts in start and run.

I hope it's that easy for the hook-up for you.
 
  #26  
Old 11-26-2011, 05:16 AM
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i use the 47.00 ebay dist also and they work very well the only thing i do is replace the rotor the brass tang is clipped on and has came off on me so i replace with the stock rotor that has the tang epoxeied no problems now also check to make sure all the screws are tight under the cap
 
  #27  
Old 11-26-2011, 06:18 AM
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Originally Posted by AK FORD GUY
Thanks co425.

dirtynorth49 - As said from Scot above (and confirmed from a member of another site). Try the white wire that was originally plugged into the Duraspark box. I think it was paired with a red wire and they both shared an oval shaped plug. Try that wire with your volt meter and see if it gets 12 volts in start and run.

I hope it's that easy for the hook-up for you.

Right on i will look in to it as soon as i get off work,good ole alaska slope schedule,hard to get any thing accomplished.all the parts and projects stack up.
 
  #28  
Old 11-26-2011, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by dirtynorth49
Right on i will look in to it as soon as i get off work,good ole alaska slope schedule,hard to get any thing accomplished.all the parts and projects stack up.
Good deal.

Sloper, yep, it's the best (and worst) part time job I have ever had. You would think with a full two weeks off work (every other two weeks) most of the time, I could get more done, but life tends to get in the way.

Still not a bad deal.

Good luck and let us know if that wire works out for you.
 
  #29  
Old 11-26-2011, 11:04 AM
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The Duraspark wiring is hot with red in run, white in start. Full battery voltage.
 
  #30  
Old 11-26-2011, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by gfw1985
The Duraspark wiring is hot with red in run, white in start. Full battery voltage.
Would it hurt anything to wire the red and white wires together to have a full battery voltage power source in the run and start positions without having any electrical back-feed problems?
 


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