I've been looking at numerous posts and getting ideas for an engine swap, but still have some questions. I currently have a 95 5.0 (MAF) with E4OD.

1)Would it be best to find a 351 from a 1995 bronco to swap?
2) Would I need to change out my computer for the diff engine? I know that 1996 went to OBD II and I know this will be a diff ecu. But would a diff ecu be required for the 351 vs 302 if it wasnt a 96?
3) Would I be better off going with a 351 from a ford lightning?
4)Will a 351 from a similar year (92-96) bolt right up to my e4od?
5) Please add anything else that you see might be important.

Thanks

 

As far as mating with your E4OD the 351, 302, and 300 all bolt to it. Physically, the swap is a bolt-in operation. Make sure you consider radiator capacity when putting a mill with another 49 c.i. to keep cool in there. Flywheels/flexplates are different to some degree. Someone else knows better than I.

ECM for a 351/E4OD combination from 95 or late 94 would be the simpler method. "California" trucks had MAF all through 94 from what I hear tell. While the 351 and 302 are similar enough that using the 302 ECM is "doable", it has its own set of headaches when combining with the E4OD simply due to the difference in shift parameters between the lower output 302 and the higher output 351.

The 351 also has no Knock Sensor so you would have to jump the connector in the 302 wiring harness if you kept the 302 ECM. Its not that the ECM will "miss" the signal from it but during the initialization at startup, the ECM does look for continuity through that particular sensor circuit and this could trigger a fault Code at startup each time.

ECM's are not nearly as pricey as they used to be to purchase new or refurbished and in most cases as long as you know the engine/transmission combo and the model you are dropping it into, the units can be had.

 

find any 5.8 from 94-96 out of bronco/f150 that had e4od so your sure to get proper flexplate. if not a new flexplate is only about $60 at most autoparts stores. Getting the motor as complete as possible would be best. Your current wiring harness and computer will work on any 5.8 from those years.

having the computer tuned either with a tweecer, quarterhorse or dyno session (best) would be recommended but may not be necessary. It will run just not to its potential. like mentioned the swap is a drop in plugNplay deal.