Rough idling 400m.
So when you were done and running you have the same leak you found with the carb spray? That sucks big time!!! I think I would pull the manifold back off and use sealer on both sides of the intake gaskets and let it set overnight before starting. Even if thats not the source of the missfire it can't run right with a intake manifold leak.
Did you find the manifold to be the dry or wet type?
When I took the mani off, I found that someone had tried that before... (gooping a ton of gasket maker in there... with no luck.) So, I am going to put the new starter on and see what happens
Thankfully it is the dry type, so that makes it easy-er. 50 pounds of cast iron held with one arm, croutching over the valve covers, and trying to align gaskets with the other arm is always fun

Ha, I am beginning to think that the truck was overheated at some point and might have warped the intake or the heads or something...
I use the one piece steel embossed valley pan gasket, I use it just once, and before the install I give it a few good coats of High Heat Aluminum Engine Paint (Ribber Seal made the best) and let that dry. I've done it with stock cast iron 2bbl intake and Edelbrock aluminum Performer intake with good luck.
There are the two rubbery like end seals that seal the valley pan to the block top. Three pieces total.
The vac leak seems to have solved itself, I have very steady vac now. I think I need to redo, or get another carb, becasue it runs good when it is out of idle (doing the classic 11-1200 rpm "idle' in nutral and about 600 or so in gear.)
However it stalled on me turning up my steep hill, right as I turned on and gave it gas to go up it just turned itself off. It started right up when I hit the starter, but still, stalling sucks.
Also, even my new starter doesn't kick off the flywheel all the time... esp if I hit the starter too soon after it stalls (you think it has died, but it still has a little bit left) Most of the time it does... dut sometimes it won't...
Keep us updated!
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more bad news 
The water is starting to turn brown every time I start it up (have been draining the water out every night becasue we are hitting 25-30 deg some nights and am trying to be safer than sorrier).
and I think the overheating is getting worse... may just be that there is a lot of air in the system from my frequent flushings, but still, not encouraging...
I think it is a bad carb causing the idle issues, but I have no way of telling for sure, and cant afford to throw that much cash at it...
But the fact of the matter is even if I do get it to run right, the oil in the water is a major red flag of a ready to poop out on you engine... So I got it to run and idle halfway decent today (better than is has been so far), just too high in park.
For right now I think I am going to call it good... really I am not sure where to go from here as far as getting it to run better... I don't want to throw good money after bad, and a new engine/swap would be a real killjoy right about now, I just did that to the truck I traded it for!!!
It has an "oily sheen" to it?
I wouldn't be surprised if rust was coloring it with you running water through it and likely the water pump will maybe start leaking soon.
"Oily looking brown" almost sounds like maybe you have a leak in a transmission cooler in the radiator.
It has an "oily sheen" to it?
I wouldn't be surprised if rust was coloring it with you running water through it and likely the water pump will maybe start leaking soon.
"Oily looking brown" almost sounds like maybe you have a leak in a transmission cooler in the radiator.
I replaced the pump when I did the timing chain, for 12 bucks or whatever I figured it was worth it.
I am going to try and get another carb to try on it too, so I will let ya guys know...
I am just on a little bit of a cool down phase right now, moving onto a couple other projects for the next few days.
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