This past week I noticed my brakes went from working fine to almost not working. I'm not sure if they went out of adjustment or if maybe one of the brake bleeders might have worked itself loose. Last week I noticed it started to pull a little to the right when applying the brakes. Over the course of the week I noticed the brake pedal started going to the floor before it worked. Last night I had some trouble getting it to stop on my way home.

I peered in the reservoir to check and I noticed the fluid levels were down a bit. I then looked around and noticed one of the wheel cylinder bleeders looked a little wet (this could have been from the road or the melting ice though) on the drivers side.

The brakes, cylinders and lines maybe have 3000 miles on them, everything was replaced.

I am thinking that I should first check to make sure that all the wheel cylinders are tight? Could it be that my drums went out of adjustment? I am wondering why the fluid level was down.. could it be because the cylinders had to extend further out due to the adjustment or perhaps because a wheel cylinder bleeder valve is loose?

 

I had a similar problem with my 1967 F-250 4x4......had the brakes worked over about a year ago....and every 3 months....loss of braking effeciency....so I began to tighten my self-adjusters once a mnth....seemed to fix it...then took it to a tire shop...got it back...problem worse than ever....tigtened the adjusters....still there....Looked under truck, front passenger side hose was 1.) rubbing tire and had worn through and 2.) Bent to point of breaking right at the wheel cylinder(where the rubber hose meets the metal fitting)....and fluid everywhere.....

Try this:

The self adjusters are supposed to "self-tighten" as you back up and apply the brakes....this is something I don't do too often, so I started doing it more to keep them adjusted.

Also, I learned from my VW days that if you don't change your Brake fluid often (or at all) water gets mixed in and begins to corrode the inner lining of the brake hoses and lines.....the rubber lines can become blocked or nearly blocked by this corrosion resulting in less effective braking on one side or at one wheel. So, If you haven't ever done it...and they look old, you may want to replace all of the rubber brake lines and flush and refill the system with fresh fluid. (replace them all....just replaceing one or two makes everything that is left a weak point.)

Brake fluid is "hydrophilic" meaning is absorbs water whenever it gets a chance....even from humidity in the air.....and when you get too much water content in your fluid...it can boil out into steam under hard braking and then you'll have to rebleed again and again and again and again and again.....you get the point....flush and change the fluid....and don't use that three year old bottle that's been sitting with it's seal broken in your damp garage.

 

If the pedal sinks first, then I'd say you have master cylinder issues. Seems it is not holding pressure. Second if it is pulling to one side and it is wet, then you have wheel cylinder issues.

Granted you installled "new" parts, but there are no guarantees. It would be rare that both started acting up at the same time, but I would pull the wet wheel and inspect it.
If it was dry and pulling I would suspect a rubber line collapsing and not allowing fluid to one side. Though, replacing the rubber lines is always a good thing to do anyhow since they are not that expensive. The fact they can blow at anytime makes it even a better idea to replace old ones.

I had a faulty master cylinder before. It lasted a short while, though I could never really get a good solid pedal. It never sunk, but did not feel quite right. I then put another brand unit on and noticed a very distinct improvement. It bled up nice and feels solid as a rock when you press it firmly.