Rough idling 400m.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2009
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You could borrow a radiator pressure tester and do a test of your radiator/water system. If it doesn't hold 15 pounds or so then it might let you know there is a problem.
The 1 1/2 turns is a base line setting to start from. Turning them in/out a little at a time, 1/16th of a turn, to get the best idle and vacuum reading. That "device" is a fast idle solenoid for your AC system. It is engaged when your AC is on to give a faster idle.
Hard to tell by the video, the vacuum is reasonably steady, the miss will cause that bounce, but the video is too short to hear the missing well.... Disclaimer: I am NO expert in the use of vacuum readings...
How does it run while driving? Hesitation when hitting the gas?
How milky is the water? Has it ever over-heated? or Frozen where you are?
A scope can show the electrical pulses and spark oscillations. Also shows bad firing and whether it is wires or plugs among other things.
The 1 1/2 turns is a base line setting to start from. Turning them in/out a little at a time, 1/16th of a turn, to get the best idle and vacuum reading. That "device" is a fast idle solenoid for your AC system. It is engaged when your AC is on to give a faster idle.
Hard to tell by the video, the vacuum is reasonably steady, the miss will cause that bounce, but the video is too short to hear the missing well.... Disclaimer: I am NO expert in the use of vacuum readings...
How does it run while driving? Hesitation when hitting the gas?
How milky is the water? Has it ever over-heated? or Frozen where you are?
A scope can show the electrical pulses and spark oscillations. Also shows bad firing and whether it is wires or plugs among other things.
it only hesitates when you jump on it from a dead stop. it you take off normally you don't get it. just when you go from a dead idle to WOT
the water (I have been flushing it with water) and it always comes out with a noticable color everytime (the fourth total flush)
it does not freeze very hard where I am, and the truck came up from northern OR.
it did overheat a little (not enough to pop the cap but it was thinking about it). I had shut it off after a drive, then had it idling in the bay of my carport and it went into the overheat section of the gauge (but I was running only water, and had not bled the system).
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Bad thing here is we are all trying to suggest what it could be based on input given across hundreds of miles of internet.....Not being there to actually experience exactly what is going on...i.e how it sounds, how it feels , etc.etc.
I actually had a cracked head that gave me almost exactly the same symptoms that you describe. I agree that a leak down test as to whether it is a valve.
I also know that there are hundreds of years of combined experience with all the guys on this site and someone will come across the answer you need at some point. Just do not get frustrated enough to give up on it we all love these vehicles for different reasons and we all know that at times they can be a PITA... but all in all they are just awesome and fun to own and drive.
I actually had a cracked head that gave me almost exactly the same symptoms that you describe. I agree that a leak down test as to whether it is a valve.
I also know that there are hundreds of years of combined experience with all the guys on this site and someone will come across the answer you need at some point. Just do not get frustrated enough to give up on it we all love these vehicles for different reasons and we all know that at times they can be a PITA... but all in all they are just awesome and fun to own and drive.
I know I have good compression, so how is a leak down going to help? (I don't know if we are talking about the same thing, lol Im kind of groggy still, haha).
Yes, and I find many gems of advice on here.
It's all part of the mechanics game. I wrench on trucks for fun, so sometimes I do get a little fed up, but a good nights rest gets me back in the game wanting more
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Joined: Feb 2003
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I rebuilt my Motorcraft 2150 carb and it changed nothing. Still won't idle unless mix screws are out 3 or 4 turns. Vacuum is steady at 16, but at 6000 ft, that may be normal. I gave up on the carb and have a re-manufactured one on the way. I disconnected ALL of the vacuum lines and plugged the ports. I then reconnected just the vacuum advance. No change. Still idles like crap. I blocked off the EGR with a blank plate...no change. So don't feel alone. This truck has been a relaible workhorse for many years, but this problem has me stumped. I can't legally drive it until it passes smog, and the way it's running now, I know it won't. If I ever do get it fixed, I'll post the details here. Still waiting for you to get your's fixed, so I can do what you did.
Rusty Roller
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,423
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From: Santa Cruz Mountains
I may have spoken a little soon on that "ac solenoid" If there's no power line to it then it is, I think it's called a dash-pot, to keep the throttle from snapping closed. It catches the throttle just off idle and allows it to close a little slower.
Without the engine running look down into the carb at the accelerator nozzles and open the throttle. Do they give a good healthy squirt?
Doesn't sound like the block froze or radically overheated....
Without the engine running look down into the carb at the accelerator nozzles and open the throttle. Do they give a good healthy squirt?
Doesn't sound like the block froze or radically overheated....
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I may have spoken a little soon on that "ac solenoid" If there's no power line to it then it is, I think it's called a dash-pot, to keep the throttle from snapping closed. It catches the throttle just off idle and allows it to close a little slower.
Without the engine running look down into the carb at the accelerator nozzles and open the throttle. Do they give a good healthy squirt?
Doesn't sound like the block froze or radically overheated....
Without the engine running look down into the carb at the accelerator nozzles and open the throttle. Do they give a good healthy squirt?
Doesn't sound like the block froze or radically overheated....
I put on a new dist, coil, ig contol unit, cap, roter, and it still runs bad. I set the timing about 15 and went out, it had lots of power, but was pinging like a **** long story short, after retarding and advancing it a few times (it would ping, or have a dead spot from a dead stop) and finally about a 1/4 mile from home it kept dying whenever I took my foot off the gas. So I called it a night and just thought I would update y'all.
Here is a vid of the idle: http://s898.photobucket.com/albums/a...nt=idlevid.mp4
Rusty Roller
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,423
Likes: 5
From: Santa Cruz Mountains
Thinking out load....
So it's not bad ign related; all new parts. Not a low cyl; 150 all around.
Not timing chain slack; new.
It does stumble from idle jumping to wot
Idle's getting worse...
There's oil or something in the water that doesn't flush out. Maybe he put ATF in the radiator too???
Has a misfiring issue.
You got this recently so no history.
Kid had it before, did some weird s*it
So what would have kept him from messing up the carb too?
It could be full of sand or had the idle mixture screws over torqued or bent.
Any chance you have a friend with a "known good" carb lying around? If I was closer I would pull mine and drop it on yours to see what that would do.... That or a carb rebuild/replacement is in your future.
Check your accelerator pump discharge nozzle jets for flow. Should be a good solid stream as the throttle is opened.
.
So it's not bad ign related; all new parts. Not a low cyl; 150 all around.
Not timing chain slack; new.
It does stumble from idle jumping to wot
Idle's getting worse...
There's oil or something in the water that doesn't flush out. Maybe he put ATF in the radiator too???
Has a misfiring issue.
You got this recently so no history.
Kid had it before, did some weird s*it
So what would have kept him from messing up the carb too?
It could be full of sand or had the idle mixture screws over torqued or bent.
Any chance you have a friend with a "known good" carb lying around? If I was closer I would pull mine and drop it on yours to see what that would do.... That or a carb rebuild/replacement is in your future.
Check your accelerator pump discharge nozzle jets for flow. Should be a good solid stream as the throttle is opened.
.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2009
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Thinking out load....
So it's not bad ign related; all new parts. Not a low cyl; 150 all around.
Not timing chain slack; new.
It does stumble from idle jumping to wot
Idle's getting worse...
There's oil or something in the water that doesn't flush out. Maybe he put ATF in the radiator too???
Has a misfiring issue.
You got this recently so no history.
Kid had it before, did some weird s*it
So what would have kept him from messing up the carb too?
It could be full of sand or had the idle mixture screws over torqued or bent.
Any chance you have a friend with a "known good" carb lying around? If I was closer I would pull mine and drop it on yours to see what that would do.... That or a carb rebuild/replacement is in your future.
Check your accelerator pump discharge nozzle jets for flow. Should be a good solid stream as the throttle is opened.
.
So it's not bad ign related; all new parts. Not a low cyl; 150 all around.
Not timing chain slack; new.
It does stumble from idle jumping to wot
Idle's getting worse...
There's oil or something in the water that doesn't flush out. Maybe he put ATF in the radiator too???
Has a misfiring issue.
You got this recently so no history.
Kid had it before, did some weird s*it
So what would have kept him from messing up the carb too?
It could be full of sand or had the idle mixture screws over torqued or bent.
Any chance you have a friend with a "known good" carb lying around? If I was closer I would pull mine and drop it on yours to see what that would do.... That or a carb rebuild/replacement is in your future.
Check your accelerator pump discharge nozzle jets for flow. Should be a good solid stream as the throttle is opened.
.
I took the carb off and cleaned it well, took out the idle screws and they looked fine and clean.
Sadly I don't have a known good 2bbl carb around. I have a good 4bbl I could borrow, but no 2bbls.
the hesitation was timing, I cranked it around and it comes and goes with that issue.
I am going to be tinkering on that tomorrow, so it may just be timing needs to be set up well.
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Thread Starter
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Well, well, well. $.10 of carb cleaner could have saved me a weekend of irritation. lol....
Sprayed the heck out of the intake right where it goes into the head and wadda know, the idle jumps up about 200 rpm and runs smooth...
Well, live and learn, eh?
I'll throw on that new gasket and report back, haha.
Some PO had goooped the ***** out of the intake gaskets, so I think it was a replacement gone bad.
Sprayed the heck out of the intake right where it goes into the head and wadda know, the idle jumps up about 200 rpm and runs smooth...
Well, live and learn, eh?
I'll throw on that new gasket and report back, haha.
Some PO had goooped the ***** out of the intake gaskets, so I think it was a replacement gone bad.
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Senior User
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when I take the intake off, am I going to run into any water passages? I have the water drained, but when I took the intake off my 390 I spilled water all over the inside of my engine down the lifter valley, will I need to watch for that same thing? I heard that the intake was a 'dry' intake?
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,797
Likes: 2,599
From: The Shenandoah Valley
when I take the intake off, am I going to run into any water passages? I have the water drained, but when I took the intake off my 390 I spilled water all over the inside of my engine down the lifter valley, will I need to watch for that same thing? I heard that the intake was a 'dry' intake?
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Well, not very much luck here...
Swapped my intake gaskets out, no change (might be a little better, but not much)
the misfire at rpm seems to have worsoned.
I checked the intake with a straight edge, and I could not see any light between the 'edge and the intake. I did not check the heads, though looking back I really should have...
I also scraped all the old gasket off of everything until it was smooth bare steel,
I only used four small dabs of gasket maker on the corners of the block and heads, so I kept everything good that way. I was also very careful to align the gaskets front and back.
After I got the intake on it was still leaking about as much as before, so I ran a bead of silicone along the intake and head to see if I could seal it up that way, it didn't seem to have much of any effect.
and then my starter crapped out on me. >
any more ideas?
And does anyone want a very solid truck, just runs a little ruff? >.> <.< I can make a deal man >.>
Swapped my intake gaskets out, no change (might be a little better, but not much)
the misfire at rpm seems to have worsoned.
I checked the intake with a straight edge, and I could not see any light between the 'edge and the intake. I did not check the heads, though looking back I really should have...
I also scraped all the old gasket off of everything until it was smooth bare steel,
I only used four small dabs of gasket maker on the corners of the block and heads, so I kept everything good that way. I was also very careful to align the gaskets front and back.
After I got the intake on it was still leaking about as much as before, so I ran a bead of silicone along the intake and head to see if I could seal it up that way, it didn't seem to have much of any effect.
and then my starter crapped out on me. >
any more ideas?
And does anyone want a very solid truck, just runs a little ruff? >.> <.< I can make a deal man >.>