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Rough idling 400m.

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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 11:24 PM
  #16  
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Did you loosen the clamp at the base of the dist.? I had to ask. Try taping it side to side gently , nothing else is holding it. They can be a little stubborn .
 
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 11:36 PM
  #17  
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Sorry I just now saw this post. I had the same type truck and same problem. The timing had jumped one tooth and the chain was so loose I could almost take it off the sprockets. To loosen my distributor I let a pool of pb blaster soak through overnight then took a long screwdriver against the piece of square casting on the distributor and carefully but bluntly tapped it with a hammer a few times. Good luck.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 11:41 PM
  #18  
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Lol, yes I did.

It looks very firm in there... Tried whacking it with a block of wood and a hammer. I did this with a 302 before and it worked... but just wondering if there were any other tricks.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 11:43 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by gillman.6
Sorry I just now saw this post. I had the same type truck and same problem. The timing had jumped one tooth and the chain was so loose I could almost take it off the sprockets. To loosen my distributor I let a pool of pb blaster soak through overnight then took a long screwdriver against the piece of square casting on the distributor and carefully but bluntly tapped it with a hammer a few times. Good luck.

did you have to replace the chain before it would run worth a crap?
 
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Old Nov 24, 2011 | 03:35 AM
  #20  
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Keep soaking it with penetrating oil and don't be in a hurry. Distributors will break! Then you'll be k'ed. Tap one direction then the other and give it a couple of days... I would remove the clamp for now, unless your driving it, so you can make sure your spraying covers everything and soak it often.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2011 | 08:48 AM
  #21  
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I actually replaced the motor because it was pretty worn out. When I took it out I tore it down to see why it was so bad. When I got to the chain I knew. Just like yours it was very sloppy and the timing marks were off by one tooth in the big gear. Before tear down it ran just as you described.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2011 | 11:22 PM
  #22  
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Ok, so update!

Changed the tranny fluid/filter engine oil/filter and got the distributor loose (hammers, screwdrivers, and crobars, not joking) Came out and it looks fine so I put er back in (I even remembered to where the roter was and got it back on the same tooth on the cam )
SO! I timed her up to 10 btdc and she died. Just *bump off.
Took her out 50 or 60 btdc and it idled halfway decent but was boggy and stalled a lot (idled too low and all that...)
so, does all this point to the timing chain?

I found that I could turn the crank pulley about 1/2 of an inch before the roter would move (from one direction to the other)...

are their any tricks to tell if you have a jumped timing chain?
 
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Old Nov 26, 2011 | 10:39 AM
  #23  
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I am not sure about any tricks to check it but someone may. The PO of mu truck had it absurdly advanced to run as well. When I corrected it my truck died as well. Sounds very similar. Even though its a pain, a chain that loose should be changed because it is likely to eventually skip or break even though it sounds like it already skipped.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2011 | 04:06 PM
  #24  
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How to Use and Interpret a Vacuum Gauge

This should give you a bit more info on what a bouncy reading on your vac gauge could be caused by. As you scroll down you will find a section that has some green fields that you can click on that will give you an idea as to what the reading is caused by.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2011 | 04:33 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Death85e
How to Use and Interpret a Vacuum Gauge

This should give you a bit more info on what a bouncy reading on your vac gauge could be caused by. As you scroll down you will find a section that has some green fields that you can click on that will give you an idea as to what the reading is caused by.
That was a real cool link and very informative.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2011 | 04:55 PM
  #26  
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Glad you liked it... i feel stupid though....I posted this when i was still on the first page and did not even realize that there was an entire 2nd page until now.
Anyway i know that a vacuum gauge can help diagnose alot of different problems and i hope it still applies. I know i don't usually come up with anything that is very informative or helpful compared to as much as i gleen from this site.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2011 | 05:55 PM
  #27  
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when a timing chain slips/streaches, does it advance or retard the timing?
 
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Old Nov 26, 2011 | 05:59 PM
  #28  
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I am not 100% sure but i believe it retards the timing.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2011 | 08:33 PM
  #29  
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A Vacum Gage is a great tool, I have had a SunPro Vac gage permanently mounted in my '77 since the late '80s. I used to have one in my '69 340 Swinger and my '65 GTO even back in my toad phase.

It can even help mileage by showing you how hard you are using that right foot. Try to keep the gage high. If you have a Holley and if you know your power valve's number (a 65 starts opening at 7.5 and is full open when vac drops to 6.5 inches) and try to stay a full number above it, you'll se a benifit.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 11:42 PM
  #30  
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Ok update!

So, I took the timing chain covor off and low an behold the timing chain was as loose as well, low things It had about and inch of very floppy play.

also, on a 400 should both of the keyways be pointing upwards? the lug to lock the gear on the cam was pointed upwards, as well as the keyway on the crank.

good news is the endplay and all that are very nice and tight, so I think it was rebuilt at some point.

so, when I install my three keyway crank gear, where should I degree the cam to? I assume the new one will have advanced, straight up, and retarded. What will work best on this, I am hoping to keep all the smog gear on it so it stays all stock, so I hope advancing the cam timing a little won't impact the rest of the stuff?
 
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