I am looking at a 2003 limited 4x4 and this info is from the dealers inspection at trade in.

3 bulbs, tires, both upper and lower ball joints, vacuum and dust seals, front brake pads and rotors, pins and boots.

from looking it over here were my observations:
Front drivers side tire very worn on inside but about 40% on outside, other 3 tires have uniform wear and about 50%.

there was some squeaking from the front drivers side on some bumps/tight turns.

neither of the hubs would rotate on the front.

Braking was a little mushy but tolerable for normal driving, def would not want to tow anything with it as it is. It didn't feel like the 4x4 was engaging but I was in a hurry so probably should have spent more time on that one.

i am guessing that the vacuum and dust seals are for the front hubs and they need to be replaced and i know about the deal that has been covered in other posts but what would it cost to pay a stealership to fix all of the stuff above?

I ask because I am going to use that pricing info to work them down on the cost because unless i missed something all of the items listed are not hard to do and the body and interior are in really good shape with very little rust.
So i am thinking the parts would probably run:

ball joints ~ 100 for aftermarket that have a grease fitting
manual hubs ~ 175 on that deal from the other thread
~300 for pads, rotors, pins and boots
~ 425 for 2 new tires

That sound about right?

though for laughs what would new auto hubs run?

thanks for any insight

 

use this website to get a good idea on what you should pay for repairs.........

http://repairpal.com/

 

If you're going to put ball joints in her, you might as well plan to replace both upper and lower. That'll run a lot closer to a grand than a C-note.

 

do you need to do both sides at the same time? And yes was going to do both upper and lower as they say that both are bad on the drivers side but the parts alone run a little over 100 if you get the moog for one side and according to the repair pale site I would be looking at about 300 for each upper and lower if only one side and about 500 each for both sides.

Another thing, when i asked the person at the tech counter she said that the vacuum and dust seals was for the auto hubs, if that is all that is wrong with the hubs shouldnt they still turn? and if that is all thats wrong with them how much would that run to fix as i do not see an option for that on the repair pal site.

thanks,

 

Moog Ball Joints: $262.15

Since you're working on the front end, it would be smart to replace the tie rods as well (better safe than sorry and you're already in there): $463.75

Total before taxes: $725.90

The above is a quote from Advance Auto.

Brakes (wagner ceramics): $103.26

Rotors (all 4 Bosch): $383.96 (fronts were $113.99 each x2 227.98, rears were $77.99 x2 $155.98)

Brake Best Front hardware kit (no pins): $10.49

Brake Best Rear Hardware kit (no pins): $8.49

Brake Best Rear slide pins x2: $8.98

Brake Best Front slide pins x2: $7.98

Total before taxes: $523.16

The above is a quote from the O'reilly website.

Total before taxes: $1249.06

Total with taxes (assuming 8.25%): $1352.10

Hubs: $89.50

Total with hubs: $1441.60 (not including tax or shipping on hubs)

Once you add tires, seals, and labor you should be able to squeeze them for $2-3K.

 

The hubs should turn regardless of the vacuum seals being good or not. If they do not turn by hand, they are frozen. You have three options.
1) Attempt a rebuild which may or may not work for frozen hubs. (Not considered serviceable by Ford but there are instructions here on FTE as a DIY repair, shops won't do this)
2) Repalce the factory auto hubs and keep the shift on the fly 4X4. Cost is $400+ for the set.
3) Replace the hubs with manually locking hubs which require you to get out and lock the hubs before 4X4 will engage. Mile Marker hubs can be had for $100 for the set or Warn's for more.

 

Anybody use the Wagner ceramic pads at Advance Auto?

They have some good deals and offer both the lifetime warranty on the pads and rotors so as long as they work well I should be set but lifetime isn't worth much if the pads suck so looking for people that have used them and would like to hear how they liked them

Here is the product description and it doesn't hurt they sell for $53 either:

ThermoQuiet NAO ceramic brake pad set.

Product Features:
Wagner ThermoQuiet NAO Disc Pad
IMI sound insulator - "one-piece design"
Wagner EDGE laser-shaped friction


Thanks,

 

In general, Wagner & Raybestos are junk in terms of quality control....I have experienced spontaneous failures of their products with no response from their MFG, Eng or Corp offices in any way, shape or form (this includes, rotors, drums, springs, etc.). I would avoid Wagner, Raybestos & any rotor from the chain stores...as many of their products are all made at the same foundry in China.

It really all boils down to the friction co-efficient....anything greater than .49 will be better than oem in terms of its ability to bite.

With regards to brake linings in general,
Ceramics: They are good but do not develop any more friction than good quality OEM linings

Performance Friction & Hawk: Good braking, increased friction but very dirty compared to OEM with the exception of VelveTouch- a line that Hawk sells that is from Wellman Industries.

VelveTouch lining has been used for many decades and was the original lining used in all Shelby Mustangs in the 60’s (I personally have used the Velvetouch lining since 1960’s until brake lining production ceased in 1986), then switched to Carbo. Wellman has been the builder of braking linings for all of the Formula 1 race teams for more than 30 years.

CarboTech Engineering lining, which I have used for about 15+ years and been very happy on multiple full size (V8) cars and trucks. This particular lining has a high friction co-efficient, excellent pedal feel, wears (typically 50,000 to 75,000 miles before replacement is required)- but it is a carbon fiber based material...meaning it does show a little more on the wheels when compared to the same amount of brake dust as say an oem lining.

EBC also makes an excellent organic lining......almost dust free with excellent co-efficient.

For over-the counter brake linings I would recommend Bendix.

I highly recommend speaking to them by phone for linings that would be best for your application.

FYI- if you noticed, the linings that I specifically mentioned are typically not available (with the exception of EBC) at the "chain" part stores.....there is a reason, these are very high quality mfgs who maintains 1% product defect mfg....and the the 1% is caught before shipping (in the majority of cases) whereas wagner, raybestos runs typical chinese quality ...15% is their standard....the tooling is also "theirs" so to speak but they are not allowed by China to bring any tooling in or take it out of the country.....which means 100% of the tooling & mfg lines are built by the chinese as well. While there is much mfg done in china with regards to brake components, many either limit their direct involvement (including assembly) or outright mfg everything here or in Europe.

 

I've used them for years and they are definitely some good pads. Never warped the rotors, wore unevenly, or any strange type of defect. They always stopped my truck well even with the heaviest of loads.

 

Fantastic thanks for the info and looks like I found my brake components.

Thanks for all the input you have been a great source of information, reps sent.