So I just finished putting a new pump, injectors, glow plugs and a fuel filter on her. Everything went smooth. This write up by Mel Agne helped a ton.

TikiWiki : IDI Fuel Injection Servicing

I will say there is a little more work involved with the Sidewinder to deal with, but all in all not bad. I figure it took me about 8 hours, over two days from start to test drive. Then a couple more to advance the timing and check the FIPL.

Things I found out:

Less is more! I removed as much as I could to gain more access. Including, the top radiator hose (drain your radiator to a point below the water inlet at the block to avoid a mess), all of the Banks Ram Air system including the mounting bracket on the intake manifold, the entire alt wire harness (to the point where I could move it out of the way) the glow plug controller (relocated for the turbo, not sure if this is necessary in its' original location). Even the oil fill cap. Anything that looked like it might be in the way that could be moved fairly easily was. This gave me a lot of room to work.

Yes you can reach all three pump bolts with a standard open end wrench, although it is much easier to make one that fits in the close quarters. If you are determined to use an open end wrench, you can remove the back bolt on the pump gear cover driver side, to get a little more travel on the wrench on that side. Just be sure to put it back in when you are done. Here are pics of my wrench, which will reach all three bolts easily, and is still plenty strong enough to torque on. Notice that I cut off the open end and welded an extension for leverage and increased travel. FYI either a 9/16 or 14mm wrench will work for this.





If you tighten the bottom two injectors lines on the pump, but leave the others just snug it makes it easier to install the assembly, and you can still tighten them after install. This also makes it much easier to rotate the pump to set the static timing marks.

If an old injector comes out without a washer, some masking tape wrapped sticky side out on the head of a 16 penny nail will get it right out, and the petroleum jelly works great for holding them on the new injectors.



Like the article says, you will never have better access to your glow plugs than right now, so if they are tired, drop the coin and swap them out.

I was a little leery about his method of cranking the engine with jumper wires, but it works awesome! So well in fact that I will fashion a jumper wire with a solderless terminal connector to fit the pump connection and an alligator clip at the battery end for the fuel shut-off solenoid, and the same for the starter relay with an in line switch to activate the starter, just to have around for next time. FYI if you disconnected your +battery cables before you started you will need to reconnect at least one of them for this procedure. This is all done with the ignition in the "OFF" position.

If you have an E40D use a couple allen wrenches to gauge the location of your FIPL, by finding the ones that will slide in the open space in the bracket above the mounting bolts, this will allow you to re-install it in the exact same location on the new pump. When I tested mine with an ohm meter, it tested well within the prescribed voltages, without needing adjustment. It even shifts a little smoother now!

When you are reassembled and ready to prime the pump, follow his advice and do it with your injector lines off and a rag under them. You can physically see when your pump is moving fuel and not air. It took 4-10 second cranking intervals to produce fuel, but later when it was time to try for a start, it fired at the end of the first cranking.

The engine sounds like hell when it first starts, it will probably surge and die a few times. Don't be alarmed it is just purging the remaining air in the system, it will smooth out. Crack 3 or 4 injector lines once it is idling to allow air to escape.

Here are some pics.

Glow plugs in and first injector out.



New pump in. Some rags under the injector lines and she's ready to prime



Ready to fire



Completed



I hope this helps, It went pretty smooth for me, I think anyone with moderate mechanical ability can perform this procedure.

For the record, My rebuilt pump was from DCP products for $319.00 with shipping, $150.00 core deposit with paid return shipping. I went with Pensacola reman. injectors, 8 new Beru GPs' from Acuratediesel.com for $78.95, and a new fuel filter from U-haul truck parts for about 15 bucks with shipping (I purchased two with shipping for around $30.00). All parts were found on e-bay. I had recently done my fuel return lines, so I re-installed them with no leaks so far. Everything arrived in a timely fashion, installed correctly and is working great, so far. I will update this thread with any problems or praises as necessary, and also report any MPG gains. I have a Thanksgiving road trip coming up!

Stay tuned!

Mac.

 

sweet thnx for the right up

 

great job Mac!
if you need any help fine tuning the engine timing,or getting the TPS set just right for the trans,let us know.
the TPS adjustment for the trans is much more sensitive than engine timing even (thats probably the understatement of the month lol) and can totally change the behavior of the E40D.
in fact,did you know the TPS/FIPL is a medium ware item as well and should be changed about every 50k miles?
it's been recently brought to my attention some may not know this,and may be experiencing a major lack of performance (less performance than a manual trans,when it should be more.)

side note,
thanks for pics.i see another banks part i need,i think.
i don't recall seeing that large air filter assembly bracket that appears to bolt to the drivers side of the intake, in my box of goodies.
not sure how i missed that one lol.i'll have to look again.

 

Felix and Ford,

I appreciate the comments. I have already adjusted the timing once, and it helped tremendously. The rattle is now more pronounced, the throttle response is excellent, and I can only produce black smoke at almost WOT otherwise no smoke, black or otherwise, at all, either at start-up or under heavy acceleration. I have not hauled anything yet, but don't anticipate doing so any time soon. The boat is parked for the winter, and I sold my 5th wheel in hopes of upgrading this summer. How do those characteristics sound for timing. From what I understand, that is right about where I want to be. I am not looking for any more power, I have plenty of that. I am interested in fuel economy right now. Also, I am putting together the pieces for an intercooler, I have a 7.3 powerstroke core, and am leaning towards a 2 and 1/2" e-bay tubing kit. I have decided to fab a hat, and most of my tubing, and only use soft connections at some structural points for vibration dampening, and flexability, should I bother having the timing set now, or should I wait until I have the intercooler installed to do that? She seems to be running great right now. Ford as far as the FIPL is concerned, I have never heard that this was a wear item. I am glad to know this. I figured electronics are "work or don't"! I know mine has at least 35k on it, and the tranny rebuild has about 45k on it. Since the pump install my tranny does seem to be shifting a little smoother. I do have the Banks trans command, will that change anything on FIPL adjustment? I do know that I metered my FIPL to almost exact specs after the install. Ground wire was at .02v, voltage was I think 5.03 and throttle was from 1.0something at closed throttle and went to 4.4 at WOT. I am going to drive her a little more to check the shifting tendencies. Overall though she seems to be running great, but she was running great before the pump install, just wasn't getting the fuel economy I thought she should. Also I didn't know for sure how many miles were on the pump and injectors, and I hate that. I did notice that the back drivers side injector had a lot of carbon build up on it, and was noticeably looser than all the other injectors. Would blow by past a loose injector cause this? I thought I read that that particular cylinder may have some flow restriction issues with the turbo and stock manifolds, might that be the cause? like I said it was running great, just only seeing about 15.5 mpg highway empty, which I thought could be better.

Here are some pics of the injectors, the left set is pass. side front to back, the right set is drivers side front to back, notice the increase in carbon build up on the back two driver side cylinders, also the copper washer on the sooted injector was the only one loose and oxidized (it is also the washer pictured above on the taped nail).




All in all I am extremely happy with the way things have gone so far, and as always I appreciate the input.

Mac.

 

those guys are clean as far as carbon goes. you should have seen mine. one of mine was had so much carbo built up on it that we had vise grips on the top of it and we were shaking the truck trying to get it out. we did get it out.

 

That is comforting Turbo! I have to admit I was a little worried!

 

i did mine last march. i don't remember them being kind of discolored like the ones from your dirvers side are, but ya you don't have any carbon on there. all that the carbon means is the copper washers were no longer sealing.

 

I will be the first to admit I am no gear head, although I am very mechanically inclined (thus the nickname!) I have enjoyed getting into the nuts and bolts of this truck. When I write a thread like this I am always afraid someone is going to tell me that I have a fried valve or something like that. No matter, I am keeping her! I bought the truck with a seized motor, and swapped it out myself. I am not afraid to do that again!

Ford... You are definitely going to make sure that you have, or get that bracket, without it the weight of the RAM air and filter would be resting on a very questionable rubber cone and hose clamp connection!