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Thinking about hydroboost

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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 03:54 PM
  #46  
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I just installed a filter and cooler on my HB system this afternoon. I used a transmission cooler I had laying around and bought a filter from AZ for about 10 bucks. I mounted the cooler on the condenser for better air flow and ran about 8ft total of 3/8" PS hose from the return of the HB, to the filter, to the cooler and back to the reservoir. Everything works great! I am going to take some pictures and post them so everyone can see how clean the install is.

My timing was about a degree retarded, so I advanced it about 2-2.5 degrees in preparation for my Banks Sindewinder that is soon to be installed. I think I picked up a little power as well.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 05:19 PM
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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 05:59 PM
  #48  
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Thumbs up keeping things clean and cool

looking good.
one thing you want to be sure of when using a filter,that it doesn't become plugged up.
the type i used has a bypass should it plug,so it can't do any damage to the hydro.the downside is they are bit more pricey.
i was reading a TSB on the newer hydro units,where ford suggested to install a filter,start the truck,turn the wheel lock to lock,step on the brakes etc and then remove it.so appears they don't like the idea of one being in there all the time.the latter SD guys have been running the megaifine filters without any trouble though.expect one guy who had two apparently freeze and crack in cold weather oddly.
to learn more,search megafine filter in the 3rd gen 7.3l SD diesel section.also i think they're was a bit in the 6.0h no section.

fyi,i plan on retarding my timing .5 degree's once i install my banks.
as you add fuel (to get boost with a turbo of course) the pressure rises,therefore you want slightly more retarded timing,not advanced.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 11:37 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT
looking good.
one thing you want to be sure of when using a filter,that it doesn't become plugged up.
the type i used has a bypass should it plug,so it can't do any damage to the hydro.the downside is they are bit more pricey.
i was reading a TSB on the newer hydro units,where ford suggested to install a filter,start the truck,turn the wheel lock to lock,step on the brakes etc and then remove it.so appears they don't like the idea of one being in there all the time.the latter SD guys have been running the megaifine filters without any trouble though.expect one guy who had two apparently freeze and crack in cold weather oddly.
to learn more,search megafine filter in the 3rd gen 7.3l SD diesel section.also i think they're was a bit in the 6.0h no section.

fyi,i plan on retarding my timing .5 degree's once i install my banks.
as you add fuel (to get boost with a turbo of course) the pressure rises,therefore you want slightly more retarded timing,not advanced.
I have read just as many if not more articles claiming that slightly advanced timing improves turbo performance as articles that say retarded timing improves performance. If pressure is increased by advancing timing, wouldn't one expect that the increased pressure would result in more exhaust gas pressure to spin the turbo? I understand your logic but I am someone who needs to see the differences before I make a decision. I plan to do some efficiency testing before I make a decision but when I do, I plan on documenting it. I would like to see some 6.9/7.3 IDI results after turbo installation and what their timing is. I have found spotty results so far. I plan to time by pulse method and measure by power felt and GP resistance. GP resistance and EGTs being the most accurate way to tell efficiency.

I need to fix my timing meter, though. It reads 1.1 timing unless I turn the rheostat **** all the way and then it is at something like -250. I compensated my meter's reading for -20 and ran my timing session according to that. I think it needs a new rheostat because when I adjust the ****, it doesn't reflect on the display. It reads RPMs fine but before the engine is started, it sits at 1.1 timing unless I turn the **** about 8 rotations, then it is way off.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 08:45 PM
  #50  
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so if i get the complete unit from ford i will still need to find a f-450 pedal if i don't want to re-drill my pedal?
 
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 09:04 PM
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Why would you have to re drill? Mine slipped right on with no modification
 
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 06:11 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by oreocreaming
Why would you have to re drill? Mine slipped right on with no modification
i have read that the non-hboost pedals were different than the h-boost pedals.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 06:19 PM
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Nope. Slips right on.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 06:20 PM
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I heard something was different but i had no issue.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 06:25 PM
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ok. i am really thinking about this. the brake system on my truck is just frickin weird. when i ease onto the breaks the pedal is soft and low. when i get on them hard, like you would to stop for a stop light that changes colors, the wheels lock up with out much pressure.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by '94IDITurbo7.3
i have read that the non-hboost pedals were different than the h-boost pedals.
The pedals are different. At least for my 91. I do have a hydroboost pedal from another 91 but it came from a 5spd so I am not sure it will fit properly. I'll test it at some point. My pedal is very firm and all I have to do is rest my foot on it and the truck starts slowing down. If I really mash it, the truck will stop very quickly.

Some say the pedals in newer trucks are the same. If that is the case, then I could get a pedal from a newer truck with an auto and be 100% OK. I'm not sure though.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 12:22 AM
  #57  
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My truck is a 90
 
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 12:09 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by '94IDITurbo7.3
ok. i am really thinking about this. the brake system on my truck is just frickin weird. when i ease onto the breaks the pedal is soft and low. when i get on them hard, like you would to stop for a stop light that changes colors, the wheels lock up with out much pressure.
Check for air in the lines and you may need a new master cylinder. Sounds like it is leaking past the cylinders.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 01:06 PM
  #59  
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what are the saginaw pump coming from ,ford or chevy
 
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by eatont9999
Check for air in the lines and you may need a new master cylinder. Sounds like it is leaking past the cylinders.
the mc is good. i have pressure tested it. i have bleed about 1.5 gallons of brake fluid threw the system.
 
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