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That vacuum advance port should unscrew from the elbow so you can save that and find the elbow that has the port. You may end up having to loosen your distributor to get the new one in. Remember to mark where the distributor sits so you don't mess up your timing too bad. I have this same setup (kind of) in my truck.
Chances are fair it will break when you try to pull it. Gotta think the rest of it is corroded to some extent and not just the end that went away. I would use a propane torch to heat the manifold around that fitting before trying to remove it. But, you don't want to get it red hot as you could damage the manifold. Just get it hot so's the bond breaks easier.
And, I'd use my big Crescent wrench or maybe a pipe wrench to get a hold on it, and then I'd whack the wrench w/a dead-blow hammer or large mallet. You need to shock it to get the bond to break. Do that while the manifold is hot to get the best effect.
As for price, we can't talk $'s "in the open" like this. If you have enough posts to send PM's, send me one to discuss price. If not, email me at janeyandgary@gmail.com. But, if ctubutis comes up w/the part # you may find one locally and be able to get it faster than getting mine - although with Paypal I can get it out quickly. But, the faster you need it the more the shipping is.
So i manned up and removed the heater hose connecter. I then proceeded to weld /soder a coat around the damaged elbow. it was a small hole.Let the truck run for a while and didnt see a leak. Im gonna test it driving to the grocery store to get some food.
I am on the hunt for a good one still as this is just a band aid. But i will now be able to make it to the junkyard thanks to everyones help
Ive kinda neglected my truck. This is a warning sign for me. Im gonna dedicate a day and tune the crap out of it and replace any parts that i feel will fail in the near future. If we stay ready we dont have to get ready!
Remember take care of your trucks as they take care of us
Wow! So that's why you didn't respond with your usual speed - you were working. I hadn't thought of soldering it, and wouldn't have tried welding for fear of burning through.
Glad you got it out ok. That's probably because of the cast iron manifold. The aluminum manifolds like on my truck bond to steel and won't let go.
And now you have some time to look for a good one. Good job!
You give me a lot of credit for which I'm not so sure I'm entirely deserving.
I've attached an image from the parts catalog, it'll show up at the bottom of this post.
D30Z-18599-A ELBOW (HOT WATER HEATER and AIR CONDITIONER CONNECTION) Fits 1980/ F100/150 -- 2/W/D-5.0 & 5.8; 90° - 3/8"-18 engine connection, 3/8"-18 female tube (vacuum switch) connection, 5/8" hose connection. Obsolete, but there appear to be 50 of them at NOS parts retailers....
Wesley Obsolete Parts LIBERTY, KY 42539 Tel. (606) 787-5293 has 45 of them (use the D3-letter-oh-Z nomenclature not the D3-numeral-zero-Z that it really is)
Chris - You da man! Thanks for this awa the PM on how you did it. I hafta learn how to use the catalog. And, I'm still looking for a way to convert it so I can search it.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.