please help with coolant leak
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Yes, the end does deteriorate. But, a good hose might seal to the smooth part of the fitting and it just takes a little bit of the rolled-end to keep the hose from slipping off.
Rock Auto is a sponsor of this site and may have them. I'll look tomorrow to see what the shop manual called it and will let you know. And, there's a remote hance i have one but i doubt it Also, as you are in CA you have to have the sensor or the emissions system won't work properly.
Rock Auto is a sponsor of this site and may have them. I'll look tomorrow to see what the shop manual called it and will let you know. And, there's a remote hance i have one but i doubt it Also, as you are in CA you have to have the sensor or the emissions system won't work properly.
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2010
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theres radiator fluid all over my block too. what could i do if it got in my distributor?
thanks gary for all your help. i really apreciate your time. im gonna get a bypass hose from autozone. hopefully this works.
thanks gary for all your help. i really apreciate your time. im gonna get a bypass hose from autozone. hopefully this works.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
As I think about it, lying in bed with no pickup to look at, the bypass hose doesn't connect to that fitting. The heater hose does. It should go from there over to the heater on the passenger's side of the firewall. There should be two hoses the same size going to the heater - one in and one out. You may have enough extra hose to cut some off I get to good hose for a temp fix.
I doubt there's enough coolant to get into the distributor itself as it is above the intake manifold. And, there is an o-ring on the distributor's housing where it goes into the manifold, so coolant can't run in there. I don't think it will hurt anything, but it will leave a reside that may be stickie, so wash it off with water if you want.
I doubt there's enough coolant to get into the distributor itself as it is above the intake manifold. And, there is an o-ring on the distributor's housing where it goes into the manifold, so coolant can't run in there. I don't think it will hurt anything, but it will leave a reside that may be stickie, so wash it off with water if you want.
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2010
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right on gary! i just walked with my dogs to the liquor store to get some new perspective. i turned on my truck and i can see the fluid squirtin out from where the hose meets the nipple...
the trick you mentioned has already been done by the previous owner lol. so right now is a macguvered hose thats kinda pinched. so they actually sell bypass hoses that are molded to fit for this application?
the trick you mentioned has already been done by the previous owner lol. so right now is a macguvered hose thats kinda pinched. so they actually sell bypass hoses that are molded to fit for this application?
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 387
Likes: 2
From: Las Cruces NM
I just ran into the same fitting being eroded away on my 302. I haven't addressed it yet as it was one of the minor items at this point.
I did have a bad fit on another vehicle that would never allow a good seal. What I did with that was buy a tube of the Water Pump and Thermostat sealant. It's a small tube made by Permatex, IIRC.
I ran a smooth coating on the fitting, a thin coat inside the hose and let it get a bit tacky before assembly. I tightened the clamp and let it sit overnite and it hasn't leaked since (6 months).
That fitting was no where near corroded as the one on my truck and have no idea as to whether or not it'll work out on yours but it could be worth a shot until you find a replacement fitting.
Please post where the replacement fitting comes from - I need one too! No sensor on mine - just a hose to manifold fitting.
I did have a bad fit on another vehicle that would never allow a good seal. What I did with that was buy a tube of the Water Pump and Thermostat sealant. It's a small tube made by Permatex, IIRC.
I ran a smooth coating on the fitting, a thin coat inside the hose and let it get a bit tacky before assembly. I tightened the clamp and let it sit overnite and it hasn't leaked since (6 months).
That fitting was no where near corroded as the one on my truck and have no idea as to whether or not it'll work out on yours but it could be worth a shot until you find a replacement fitting.
Please post where the replacement fitting comes from - I need one too! No sensor on mine - just a hose to manifold fitting.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
right on gary! i just walked with my dogs to the liquor store to get some new perspective. i turned on my truck and i can see the fluid squirtin out from where the hose meets the nipple...
the trick you mentioned has already been done by the previous owner lol. so right now is a macguvered hose thats kinda pinched. so they actually sell bypass hoses that are molded to fit for this application?
the trick you mentioned has already been done by the previous owner lol. so right now is a macguvered hose thats kinda pinched. so they actually sell bypass hoses that are molded to fit for this application?
I'll check to see if I have one of the fittings when I get out to the shop in a bit.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
BB - Is this the fitting awa the sensor?
The 1981 FSM (factory shop manual) calls it a "heater hose fitting". I thought I could find it in the Master Parts Catalog to get the part # but I'm not finding it. I'm sure it is there but I dunno where.
So, if you want to find a new one maybe we can get ctubutis (Chris) or Numberdummy to chime in as they know the MPC backwards and forwards and will be able to not only give you the part # but also probably tell you who has how many new ones.
The 1981 FSM (factory shop manual) calls it a "heater hose fitting". I thought I could find it in the Master Parts Catalog to get the part # but I'm not finding it. I'm sure it is there but I dunno where.
So, if you want to find a new one maybe we can get ctubutis (Chris) or Numberdummy to chime in as they know the MPC backwards and forwards and will be able to not only give you the part # but also probably tell you who has how many new ones.
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2010
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hella fellas! so i purchased a new hose and new clamps. Clamped down as tight as i could. Fired up the truck . I was watching it while it ran and I could see coolent coming from the elbow. Theres a pin hole leak right where it curves. I was able to get a pic ......It looks like thats the part gary. I need my truck asap. could i remove this piece without taking off the intake manifold? it looks like I can but just want to make sure. And if i do remove it hopefully it doesnt break. Any other ideas before i resort to removing that.Thanks. Rick.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
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From: Northeast, OK
Rick - Yes, it comes off w/o removing the intake manifold as it just screws into the manifold. Having said that, the clearance to the distributor looks close on yours. It'll probably come out but a new one may not go back in as it will be 1 1/4" longer than yours - yours is gone from the first lip all the way to the end. I put mine up to the screen and your shot makes the fitting lifesize on my screen, so it is easy to tell where yours is gone.
But, there is a minor difference from mine to yours - you have a vacuum switch screwed into yours and I have an electrical sending unit or switch in mine. However, yours will/should screw out of the fitting and screw into the new one.
I've asked one of the gurus, ctubutis, to come take a look at this since I can't find the part # in the parts catalog and I'm sure he can. With the PN you/he can find who has them, and maybe someone near you does which will make repair faster.
But, there is a minor difference from mine to yours - you have a vacuum switch screwed into yours and I have an electrical sending unit or switch in mine. However, yours will/should screw out of the fitting and screw into the new one.
I've asked one of the gurus, ctubutis, to come take a look at this since I can't find the part # in the parts catalog and I'm sure he can. With the PN you/he can find who has them, and maybe someone near you does which will make repair faster.
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2010
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im thinking for the meantime is installing a regular connector that doesnt have the provision for the sensor. ill just cap off those vaccuum lines....
autozone has the connector that will put me back on the road.... what do you think?
autozone has the connector that will put me back on the road.... what do you think?
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
I'm not sure if capping the lines off or if plugging them together would be best. Plugging together would require a reducer, which AZ should have as well.
That's is probably a thermal vacuum switch - it gives the smaller line vacuum when the temp gets up to a certain point. If one of those hoses goes to the vacuum advance, which is a silver thing on the distributor, then it is either vacuum advance or retard. In any even, try it capped and if it doesn't drive well connect them - until you get the correct fitting.
That's is probably a thermal vacuum switch - it gives the smaller line vacuum when the temp gets up to a certain point. If one of those hoses goes to the vacuum advance, which is a silver thing on the distributor, then it is either vacuum advance or retard. In any even, try it capped and if it doesn't drive well connect them - until you get the correct fitting.