Some of the "Hat Channel" steel rails that support the bed are showing rust. What are the best products/methods for cleaning, treating, painting, whatever, to stop the process?

 

I've got the same problem as well as rust under the cab and door bottoms. You might want to check out POR15 products. I've used it in a few areas so far and it seems to work as advertised, but I haven't yet tried the bad rust areas.

 

chip off the loose rust, then wire brush by hand or power. get the loose stuff and flaking stuff off... YOu can buy severa kinds of "rust converter" that you paint on and it reacts with the rust and forms a dark, hard cover. I got a pint at the local hardware store. Let it dry for a day, then paint with a thick primer like rustoleum red oxide--- i use a brush with it. Final top coat i prefer to get spray paint in the rattle cans as you can shoot it into all the holes and crevices. I buy a "rustoleum professional grey" that kind of matched the bottom of the truck and painted the bad areas of floor / braces/ rocker panels.

 

I Google'd "rust stop automotive" and got a list of products. All but one claim to be a "One-Step" process.
1. Magnet Paints: "Chassis Saver" $37.50/QT, $104.75/Gal even has a Ted Nugent Video.

2. Rust Bullet (Automotive): $51.99/QT, $164.99/Gal.

The first two products make quite an impressive boast on their websites.

3. Rust Doctor: recommends a bit more prep with their product "Grease Doctor; $52.99/Qt, $139.99Gal.

4. Eastwood Products: is clearly a 2-Step Process:
a) Rust Converter $29.99/Qt, $99.00/Gal
b) Rust Encapsulater $37.99/QT, $139.99/Gal

Finally a "Price Shocker"..... and only "one-step" literally!

5. Interstate Products; 1-Step "One Step Rust Killer (tm):
$42.95 per GALLON!!!!!????????

Which product to use?
Do ya get what ya pay for????
Or are the others "over-blown" and "over-priced"???

 

I have no proof, but the rust conversion to a black oxide is a chemical reaction. I have to believe that they all have basically the same ingredients in them. Some might be watered down and need a second coat, etc. What ever you use, i would beleive a good top coat of paint would be a great idea for extra protection. Go for the $42. stuff and tell us how it worked. Where is the web site ?

 

Rust Converter Treatment Kills Rust

Price is sure right.. go for it. What i bought cost about $8 for a 6 oz bottle.

 

About.com: http://www.corroseal.com/

 

1-763-753-0365 They've heard the price thing before. Their product is different though. Latex based liquid. NOT pasty as others appear to be. He said you could put it into a garden type pump sprayer and spray it on. Which sounds appealing when thinking of sticking the spay nozzle deep inside the hat channel that supports the bed and treating it on the inside as well as the outside. He did also recommend top coating with a quality automotive paint or even Rust-Oleum. I will next look to speak to an auto body shop.
<http://store.interstateproducts.com/Rust_Control?gclid=CIKxprufvqwCFQM75QodKC6Dow>
I do not want to waste time/money... I would rather spend more without regret than go cheap only to see the rust return and need to get under there again with the more expensive stuff.
I will continue ti research.
Google; rust stop automotive. You will see the links.
Again:

• Magnet Paints: Chassis Saver
• Rust Bullet
• Rust Doctor
• Interstate Products
• Eastwood

 

Sounds just like the Interstate 1-Step Rust Killer, although with the emphasis on environmental friendly? Effectiveness? Again, I will still research.

 

if you check the content, you will see thay all contain an acid that reacts with the rust and primes the surface. They all contain a latex ploymer that dries on the surface and makes a hard shell. Probably some small differences, but how many ways can you do that ?

 

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----------i have tried 2-3 different kinds, they are all water base, all turn black, and all should be painted with an enamel paint when done.....

 

Eastwood looks good! But lots of time, tools, and money for the various staged products, to tear down and get to all the undercarraige iI would like to treat.
Great video!

Got another question for you though.

I took a hit and need to repaint the passanger side front fender & door.
1998 Ford F150 Lariat, may be 50th Anniversary Edition Trim Package, as there is a 50th decal in the rear window.
The body shops who have estimated the damages have determined that the Strips are discontinued. Is there some other way to locate them?
Passenger Side;
Upper Front Fender & Door (which includes "Lariat")
Lower Front Fender & Door which separates the two tone paint scheme.

The Truck is White & Gold Trim
The Stripes are two color/three; gold center with blueish or purpleish outside lines.

They are sending me to some sign making graphics guy to try to duplicate them???

 

POR15 I have used it on every truck I've owned. I always bugger wheel and por the bottom of every door and even the bottom of the tailgate. I never see rust again in that area. I think I paid around $35 or so for a pint from painter supply. I swear by this stuff...

 

HI all,
If this isn't the correct thread, please point me in the right direction.
I have extreme rust under my bed. It's so bad that there is no repairing it. It just crumbles when you touch it. Is ot possible to remove the bed, grind off the remaining rails and weld new rails on? Or do I need to get an new bed all together?.. My fear is that I'm going to drive downt he highway and my bed is going to fly off..Thanks in advance

 

you can get a new set of bed supports on ebay, i just ordered a set