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I am going to do the 3G swap in my 87 Bronco. It has the 351 W and it was still carbed(last yr before EFI on the 351's). The current alt I have doesnt have the stud connections, it has the plastic plugs for everything. Also the positive wire coming from the alt is two wires and they are a small gauge at that. I was wanting to change that around to a stud mount with some meaty positive cables. How much trouble is it to do this? What do I need to look out for?
If anybody has done this and has a write up any links would be appreciated!
You have the internal voltage regulator on your 87 correct?
The 3G altenator is already internally regulated so it should be simpler for you than it would be for people with external voltage regulators. Mostly you will need to find the wires that go to the battery and hook them up to your new altenator when you get it. You will have to improvise on connectors, perhaps get one out of a donor vehicle in the yard for the 3G altenator you are wanting to get.
You will have to get rid of the alternator all together to get one with a studded output. The alternator you have is known to melt the plugs and give a lot of trouble, and the store won't warranty a rebuilt or new one with you having to buy new pigtails for it. It's a real can of worms and if you can get rid of it, you would be better off. I have a 86 ranger that had that thing on it, and when it went bad, and I saw the prices for a rebuilt one, I just retro-fitted a GM alternator on it.
Or, you could put an earlier alternator on it, one of those prior to the 2G like my 81's and 82's have. I might have an extra but, if so, I'm not sure how good it is. They aren't expensive from the parts store and I do have the bracket to mount it in case that's different.
I found a 3 G at the bone yard for $35.00. I plan on running it , but , I wanted to do away with the plastic plugs and get bigger wire and a stud connection. My truck already is internally regulated. I dont know if I can get the plugs for this 3G or not. It's one of those boneyards that has everything already pulled and shelved.
The plastic plug seems to have to positive wires that are like 12 ga. I didnt pay attention to see of both of them ran to the starter relay or if one ran somewhere else. What other wires does the alt have attached to it. My truck has the actual voltmeter in the dash not amp meter that reads D on one side and C on the other. I suppose one of the wires goes to it.
You need to find the light green/red wire in the alternator harness.
Disconnect the rest and throw it away.
Get a 150A fuse and holder from a car audio store.
I used 2Ga. cable with lugs on each end from the charging post to the fuse holder.
Mounted it on the inner fenderwell behind the solenoid.
Another 2Ga. wire from fuse holder to battery+ side of solenoid.
Too bad you didn't get to cut out a chunk of the alternator harness while you were at the junkyard.
You can buy the harness you need for $20 at the above site if you can't get it from the junk Taurus. RJM Injection Tech — 3G Alternator Harness
I can post pic's of my install (when it stops raining) if you like.
I picked up the alt today. It's the 130 amp with the 8-1/2" spacing . I got the factory plugs but they were cut off about one inch from the plug ends. I didnt get the mega fuse , but , I suppose I could get one at the parts store.
Ok, I must have the 2 G on my truck now. I got the 3 G at the boneyard. On the alt I have on the truck now it has two plastic plugs that fit it . The big plug has two blk/org wires that couple together at a fusible link then from there they go to the starter relay on the fender. The big plug also has a white wire. The white wire splits and one goes to the electric choke on my edelbrock carb and the other goes right into the little plastic plug on the alt. The little plug has green,yellow and white coming from it. The white one like I said earlier just loops from the big plug to the little plug. The yellow just ties into the fusible link with the blk/org wires and the green ties into a plug that has like 3-4 wires on it and then goes somewhere. The plug on the new 3G and old 2G alt seem to be the same IOW a direct swap and nothing is needed besides plugged into the 3 G.
With that being said. I am assuming the white that ties together at both plugs on the 2G must be the stator wire that is seperate on the 3G. So I assume it just needs to tie into the white wire on the little plug?
Do you have a diagram for gauge equipped trucks? Should be simple to install a shunt in the main battery wire to operate the gauge simular to factory wiring.
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