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Upgrading Charging Wires?

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Old Nov 17, 2011 | 06:29 PM
  #16  
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I'm sorry.
No don't have one, I don't think Ryan has one either since his product is geared toward Mustangs.

I agree that it should be simple to wire a shunt, but the amperages the 3G's put out are double the current of the 2G's.
I'm fortunate that my later ('87) has a voltmeter instead of an ammeter.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2011 | 06:40 PM
  #17  
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That would mean you would want to shunt half as much to the gauge as is now for it to read the same.

Hmmm, it's indeed fortunate that 87's got voltmeters, as this conversion creates a problem with us ammeter folks if we want to keep the ammeter...
 
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Old Nov 17, 2011 | 06:56 PM
  #18  
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Upgrading Charging Wires?

Originally Posted by 81-F-150-Explorer
Do you have a diagram for gauge equipped trucks? Should be simple to install a shunt in the main battery wire to operate the gauge simular to factory wiring.
My suggestion is don't try, the shunt size and length are calibrated for the alternator. Besides on our trucks everything electrical is fed through the alternator harness.

Well, I was going to upload the diagram, but we're back to uploading issues again. If you need it PM me with and email address.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2011 | 10:24 AM
  #19  
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Alright, I think I got it right, but , I wont know until the truck is running in about another week.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2011 | 05:54 PM
  #20  
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Okay Bruno,
I just managed to get a few shots before it got dark.

There really is no good way to get a pic of the alternator with all the emissions controls in the way.

If there's a particular view you need just let me know.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/24183730@N03/6372083715/http://www.flickr.com/photos/24183730@N03/6372083715/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/24183730@N03/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/24183730@N03/6372098605/http://www.flickr.com/photos/24183730@N03/6372098605/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/24183730@N03/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/24183730@N03/6372104457/http://www.flickr.com/photos/24183730@N03/6372104457/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/24183730@N03/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/24183730@N03/6372112377/http://www.flickr.com/photos/24183730@N03/6372112377/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/24183730@N03/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/24183730@N03/6372127717/http://www.flickr.com/photos/24183730@N03/6372127717/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/24183730@N03/, on Flickr
 
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Old Nov 20, 2011 | 06:20 PM
  #21  
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Great pics Jim!

Now I am having trouble getting the belts to line up. My alt doesnt jive with the balancer pulley since I did the 3G install. I got the big case 3G. It looks like it is almost a couple of inches from being where it needs to be. The alt is too far forward now. Has anybody run into this before?
 
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Old Nov 20, 2011 | 07:03 PM
  #22  
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I haven't.

On my install I needed to change the offset in the adjuster arm but the pivot end in the bottom of the smog pump bracket had the alternator lined up with my crankshaft pulley.

I put a thin shim washer behind my V-belt pulley so that it did not rub on the 3G case.

What does the front dress look like on your engine?
 
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Old Nov 20, 2011 | 07:14 PM
  #23  
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Oh, One other thing...
Do you have the white/black wire going from the 'S' terminal to your choke on the 4180?
You're going to lose this and need to find another source of reduced voltage, or swap choke elements for the regular 12V Holley 45-258.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2011 | 08:12 PM
  #24  
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Jim, the 3G has a white/black wire that I think can be tapped for the 7 volt choke supply. Check with Archion he has the information.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2011 | 08:22 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 85lebaront2
Jim, the 3G has a white/black wire that I think can be tapped for the 7 volt choke supply. Check with Archion he has the information.
Yes, I know this, but in it's stock configuration there is no stator wire to hook up to the carb.
I chose to use a resistor wire from a spare harness to power mine.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2011 | 11:02 PM
  #26  
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The stator wire was already tapped into on my original set up. I just re worked the joint and used it that way. I hope its the reduced voltage. I have an Edelbrock 1406 carb, but , it still has the electric choke with a 1/4" spade terminal.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 03:26 AM
  #27  
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If you have an Edelbrock you should be using 12V.

I don't think they make a 7V choke like the Motorcraft specific one used on the stock 4180.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 01:14 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 85lebaront2
My suggestion is don't try, the shunt size and length are calibrated for the alternator. Besides on our trucks everything electrical is fed through the alternator harness.
Actually the shunt is calibrated to the Ammeter. The purpose of the shunt is to alow a small fraction of amperage to go through the ammeter, and to have the rest bypass the ammeter and go from the battery to the altenator or vise versa directly. You have to factor in the amperage of the altenator, to correctly calibrate the shunt to the ammeter. The factory ammeter is rated for 5 amps at about 50mV.

Ammeter design : DC METERING CIRCUITS


Without the shunt you will lose your ammeter gauge.

You can buy shunts for this purpose that splice in as well.

http://www.calibex.com/Ammeter-Shunts/zzcalibex2zB1z0--search-html?nxtg=2430a1c0504-E8FF95D64F743AD7
 
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 04:52 PM
  #29  
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Great. So can we add a shunt and any speculation on what size shunt for each alternator? 95A, 135A, etc.

I do have a Autometer voltmeter sitting on the bench but would prefer all the factory gages work.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 05:45 PM
  #30  
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I see this one in the link
Overton's® > Blue Sea DC Current Shunt 200A/50mV Analog - Boating & Marine > Boat Covers > Custom & Semi Custom Boat Covers : Custom Boat Covers, Semi-Custom Boat Covers, Universal Boat Covers
It's rated at 200A and not recommended to see more than 66% of that for continuous duty. (132A)
Or do you need to size one for the draw of the truck and not the maximum output of the alternator?
 
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