Here we go again.... last time my truck broke down it cost my 5k and an entire bullet proof rebuild. I have a 04 F-350 6.0PSD went to start it this morning and all it does is continually crank over and not start. I don't hear any odd noises or anything out of place other than the no start issue. I put in one new battery about 3 months ago and the other one was tested and fine. After I get off work today I plan on jumpng the wire from the started to the battery to test that, but wanted some other opinions on where to start before I dig into this to far.

 

tech folder has a no-start sticky that could help you.

 

Sounds like a FICM probably, good luck figuring it out, let us know the outcome.

 

Alright well I will rent a code scanner from the local auto store when I get off work and let you know what I get

 

They should pull the codes for you at no charge.... you shouldn't have to "rent" it.

Here's the link to the FICM test: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...procedure.html

 

Can't scan it for free when he can't get it there

Just joking around. Don't mean no harm.

In all seriousness now, I would check the ipr and try to unplug the icp and see what happens.

Test your ficm. First.

How does the injector buzz sound?

 

Alright its been a long week ended up work 80 hours. So I just got to getting a scanner and checked the engine for codes. It gave me no codes both with the key in the on position and while I was trying to start the truck. Next I am going to check the FICM but i gotta wait until tomorrow when I have some day light for that. Does having no codes tell me anything at all? or do i jsut need to start checking things like the FICM individually?

 

time to test things individualy like the FICM

A scangauge would be a big help here could check alot of stuff fast

how long ago did you do all that work
and what was done

 

I have run the truck for about a month since I did the work. My oil cooler went out. I ended up replacing the head gaskets, installed arp headstuds, put in a bulletproof egr cooler, installed a condenser mounted bullet proof oil cooler, installed a spin on oil filter, new radiator, new hoses, upgraded my fuel pressure spring, and replaced various o rings and seals through out the rebuild.

 

We just had an issue like this with one of our company work truck 6.0's. It was a fuel module. Put a new one in and it ran like a dream again.

 

Alright well no I am really confused! here is what I did today. Put in a new fuel filter (it was due anyway) tried to start the truck a few times and nothing. So I started to test the FICM, which is the 4 screw style. With the key in the on position I got 48v on the right screw and 0v on the left. During the key-on buzz test I got 21v on the right and 0v on the right. Here is the weird part. When we tried to test it while cranking the engine it actually STARTED!!! So with the engine running i tested the screws again. I got 37v on the right and 0v on the left while the engine was running. So Im not sure what to do. The tests tell me the FICM is bad but the truck started....



Update:

I took the truck out for drive since it was starting up. After letting it sit idle for about 10 min i took a voltage reading on the ficm. The right side screw rose from 37v to 42v in that 10 min. After driving a couple miles I stopped and tested again ant it was up to 48v. After thinking I put two and two together i realized it is about 15 degrees warmer today than it had been any other day i tried to start it. Would this have anything to do with my problem or am i way off base? After reading about the ficm im starting to think that the low voltage n this is why my truck runs real hard in the morning if i dont give it 5-10 min to warm up in the morning, even when it is above 50 degrees out. Any thoughts? could this be an issue i've been having for awhile?

 

Engines can start w/ a bad FICM - nothing to be surprised at.

Assuming your batteries are healthy, you have a bad FICM - get it fixed.

 

I was more surprised at when it started, seeing as I have tried it a couple times a day all week out of pure hope... Also my batteries are good had one replaced a couple months ago and the other was tested good. Any suggestions one where to have it repaired? And if the 58v uprgade is worth it or a good idea? From what I have read on here people have used ficmrepair.com and swamps. I also see alot of people seeling reapir service on ebay

 

I have used FICMrepair.com multiple times and I like the service, price, and warranty. Ed from FICMrepair.com says that the 58V will decrease the unit's reliability (heat and vibration are part of the failure "root-causes".

 

Alright I got the FICM back from FICMrepair.com installed it and it tested out great! Truck started fine and sounded great. Went to take it for a test drive and then it stalled 200 feet from the driveway. Check the FICM again and checked all the wiring plugged into it. Everything looked fine. Now what???? any Ideas?