I have an 04 superduty with the 6.0. Check engine light came on and I took the truck into the dealer. Got a call back couple hours later saying code p0404 and they need to replace the egr valve to fix the problem. I said ok no prob how much? $709.00. I said hold on dont touch it im coming to get it. My truck only has 40k miles on it, do guys think I can pull the valve and clean it as I have read in the tech folder? Or replace it? Where is the best spot to buy one if needed? Thanks FTE you have saved me some $$$.

 

I would definitely clean it and see... That doesnt cost anything.... Its not hard to take out... Better yet spend $300 get a sct tuner and turn it off... IMHO

Daniel

 

$709 to replace an EGR valve?

I just bought a valve for my '05 for $155.95 from dieselfiltersonline (OEM Motorcraft - same price for the '04 part). You can also get it from Tousley Ford for about $160 if you mention this website.

The valve is on top of the engine next to the oil filter and secured by two 8mm (I think) bolts. Just unplug the electrical connector and remove the bolts. the only tough part might be pulling it out if it is encrusted with carbon build up. There are videos on Youtube showing the procedure. you might have to use a small prybar with crow's foot to get it out.


I think the retail price for the valve is $230. That means your dealer wants $479 for 15 minutes labor.

 

As stated they can be stubborn to pull out. Someone on here suggested using a paint can opener. I didn't have one at the time but would've come in handy.

 

I would definitely pull it and clean it before you do anything. My gf lives 45 miles away and it is all highway driving. For the past couple weeks I couldn't make the trip without my truck bogging down, blowing black smoke and throwing that code. I pulled my valve yesterday and cleaned it before I made the trip and I made the trip there and back without the code reappearing so I am 100% sure cleaning the valve solved my problem....best thing is it cost me $0 and 20 miniutes to fix...alot better then $709

 

Clean it first. CARB CLEANER. Not brake cleaner. Then if it needs replaced, try Tousley Ford or partsguyed.com. Should be under $200.

A baby food jar works good for soaking, and this is the tool I use to get mine out. And don't get any fluid in those 2 holes in the body of the valve.

 

Thanks guys, I will take it out and clean it, looks easy enough. I still cant get over the dealer wanting to charge me so much, it sure pays to be a member here.

 

I just finished replacing my EGR valve (first time). After reading all the stories about how hard they can be to pull out.....

17 minutes start to finish, including brushing the bore and vacuuming loose carbon out of the intake.

I removed the 8mm bolts and could not budge the valve with my hand. I couldn't twist it much less pull it out. I found an interior panel puller tool (looks like a screw driver with a bend in it an a flat tip with a V fork to get behind the plastic pins that hold interior trim in place).
Sure enough, I could move the valve a bit by getting the tool under the edge of the valve body, but was afraid to apply a lot of force. The valve was moving, but not having pulled one before, I didn't want to put too much pressure on one side.

I used a pair of Channel Locks to GENTLY grip the body of the valve and twisted while pulling up. It popped right out with almost no effort!

Looking inside the bore, I saw two matching blue O-rings. Nowhere did I ever read that the intake has O-rings that mate to the O-rings on the valve. That's why I got the valve to move a little by prying on it.

Something else that is never mentioned in valve replacement how-tos:

When installing a new valve, the O-rings make it tough to seat the valve on the manifold. You'll get it in and it will stick out about 3/8th inch. I'm a pretty big guy and wasn't able to apply enough force to fully seat the valve.....It's those O-rings. The O-rings are also the reason why the 8mm bolts look longer than necessary when you first remove them. They are long enough to start with the valve not fully seated. Just start the bolts and alternate a couple of turns until the valve body seats against the manifold. You won't have to force anything- used very little force on an 1/4" drive rachet I was holding on the centerline.

In my opinion, at least in my case, is not hard to remove. Its location makes getting a good grip on it and pulling on it vertically with your bare hands just about impossible. A gentle grip with Channel Locks combined with a twist and vertical pull takes almost no effort.

I'm laughing about instructions that involve looping steel wire through the bolt eyelets and rigging up a long lever extraction device!

I did not lubricate the O-rings with motor oil as some have suggested. Doesn't the EGR valve see temps of over 1,000F? If so, I am not aware of any motor oil that can stand up to 1,000F without coking.

One last thing. When removing the electrical connector from the valve, please note that you have to reach around on the side facing the firewall and get a finger under a plastic clip. Pull the clip away from the connector, then pull up.

 

Call the police and report an attempted rape.

 

Lubricating the o-rings is just for the install. It is intended to do nothing else. It is easier to lubricate the o-rings and install it simply by pushing it in rather than to alternate the tightening of the bolts (I guess I am laughing about having to do that ..........).

mgood - you can easily "pop it out" w/ one of these:
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - bismic's Album: EGR Cleaning 2011 - Picture

 

I understood oiling the O-rings was for installation purposes only. Wouldn't the oil break down at normal EGR valve temperatures and just add to the coking problem?

The effort needed to seat the valve by tightening the bolts is minimal. I was able to fully seat the valve by spinning the socket/extension with just my fingers and using the wrench only for a bit of final torque.

I guess either way is fine. The important thing is the OP didn't pay $479 for valve swap labor.

Crap! I just noticed 500 posts turned me into an "Elder User." What part of that title isn't an insult?

 

Any ash that a light coating of oil would produce will be inconsequential. If it were still to be a concern though, ashless two cycle oil could be used.

 

That's funny!

 

it is a simple chore so to speak. remove both of the bolts and turn the egr to the left or right exposing the bolt holes. get some safety wire, thread it through both holes, wrap it around a screwdriver, use both hands and pull straight up. works fine for me,

 

Hey, whatever works. But, I couldn't twist mine by hand.