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I own a 1989 F-150 with 108,000 miles on it. I took it to the Ford dealer in town because sometimes when its cold it barely runs and the idle surges. The dealer cleaned the Iac valve and set the timing. They also said the truck kept throwing a code that the egr valve was not working properly. I am not getting a ping in the truck but it seems to be down a little a power. Would it be worth the money to replace the egr valve and sensor or not???????????????
If the valve has never been replaced before, it is probably time anyway to do it. Most EGRs in my experience seem to get flakey after about 70,000 or so. Som e are intermittent, others just die a slow death. Either way probably a good routine maintenance item with your mileage.
I don't know if there are aftermarket brands of EGR. I just use the factory EGR. usual cost is something like $40, but some exotic engines cost near $100. Some engines are very specific about which model number EGR they use, sometimes the model splits dependingf on the VIN # of your car. I was told that the emissions system is calibrated to a specific EGR model. This wsa the case on an 89 SHO I had. There were two model EGRs called out for my year. the only way to tell which to use was the VIN.
Replacing an EGR is usually simple, IF you can get to it. There are usually only a couple bolts, a hose or two, and maybe an electrical plug. Many use a very thin metal gasket which is sometimes not included with the new EGR, so don't drop the old one.
One item that I have noticed should be inspected and which should be handled gently is the gas tube coming from the exhaust(Some engines don't have this so...). The tube will often rust through and leak or worse it will be brittle and break while messing with the EGR.
Would it hurt if I didn't replace the egr at all. I read on one of these boards a way to plug up the egr. Would it hurt to eliminate the egr or is it really necessary for better performance. I don't expect to get my emission checked here in Southern Indiana.
I have read that it is easy to plug the EGR port. There are kits for this. However. Many engines will throw a code and light up your CEL(Check Engine Light). More an irritaqtion than anything else. The computer can be reprogrammed to turn it off.
I have not heard that plugging the EGR causes driveability problems, but it depends on the engine controls I suppose. I personally prefer to keep the smog controls on my car up to spec since the new engines are designed to run best with them. Sometimes removing the controls decreases performance or driveability.
>I don't expect to get my emission checked here
>in Southern Indiana.
Lucky you. Here in California I would probably go to jail if I removing my EGR valve. The EGR valve is an emissions only devise. In normal operation, it hurts performance because it vents exhaust gases into you intake manifold. This cuts down on emissions, but it also displaces some of the good air fuel mixture with burnt exhaust gases. I the old days before computer controlled everything and the smog police, we would just remove the darn thing and cap off the holes. Or disable the EGR valve so it never opened. Now a days with computer controlled engines…….??? I don’t know if it would affect anything. The computer does have a sensor on the valve so it knows when it opens and closes. The computer also tells the valve when to open and close. Some kind of closed loop going on here, not quiet sure how it works, I just know the computer takes it into account when setting the parameters for efficient engine operation. And if you live in an area that requires smog checks, removing or disabling the EGR valve would fail your vehicle. Just to play it safe, I would replace the darn thing.
Someone posted about putting a ball of aluminum foil up stream of the EGR valve to prevent exhaust gas getting to the engine. I beleive he said a ford tech had told him this, anomously of coarse!
I was also told I need to replace the EGR valve on my '92 E150 van. This was after the shop replaced the TPS and IAS for rough idle/no idle.Seems odd that these codes showed up together. Is EGR related to the other two? I located the two nuts which need to be removed, looks like the exhaust gas tube is threaded on? My check engine light comes on and off, but I also found a 1/8" diameter (looks like vac line) broken.
PR