EGR Valve Question
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 341
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From: Tennessee
EGR Valve Question
I took my 95 F-150 to autozone and it threw a EGR Valve code. I had a mechanic say that if you took the little hose off the EGR valve and it ran better, then it was a EGR valve. It ran like a champ with the hose off. Is this for sure a EGR valve problem and how hard is it to change since it is hard to get to?
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 56
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From: MA
just changed my egr it was real easy just to the left of the intake
2 bolts and pipe going down. just make shure you spray all bolts with pb blast or something like it to loosen them. herd bad stories about people braking those bolts.
good luck gabe
2 bolts and pipe going down. just make shure you spray all bolts with pb blast or something like it to loosen them. herd bad stories about people braking those bolts.
good luck gabe
New User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Ontario, Canada
There's a good posibility that it is the egr valve. However, it could be the EVP sensor which is located on top of the egr valve. Before you go to the expense of replacing the egr valve, you may want to replace the EVP first (relatively cheap). If that doesn't solve the problem, then it probably is the valve. I'm a parts guy at a Ford dealer and we sell a pile of EVP's.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 133
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From: Sacramento
no the egr valve is in the front passenger side of the engine compartment. it is a tube going from the passenger side exhaust manifold up to the upper intake.
The vacuum hose you pulled off is either the air bypass or air diverter valve. both are behing the intake(close to the cab), one is closer to the passenger side and I can't remember which is which.
The vacuum hose you pulled off is either the air bypass or air diverter valve. both are behing the intake(close to the cab), one is closer to the passenger side and I can't remember which is which.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,556
Likes: 43
From: Concord, NC
I'd perform the tests that are outlined in the Haynes manual for the EGR system before just replacing parts. It could be something as simple as the valve is stuck and straight manifold vacuum might get it unstuck and clear the code without buying parts. Investigate the problem before just throwing parts on it, no matter how inexpensive the part might be.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 133
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From: Sacramento
I am just guessing, but could be by pulling the vacuum line of the valve you forced it to stay closed which would make the vacuum in the crankcase greater(ie more vacuum) == run better?
I had a leak on that tube crossing between the heads(that is connected to the valve you shut) and my truck ran really bad and died. fixed the lead and it ran like a champ
I had a leak on that tube crossing between the heads(that is connected to the valve you shut) and my truck ran really bad and died. fixed the lead and it ran like a champ
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 725
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Okay I just went through a month and half of EGR related check engine lights(code#332 insufficent EGR flow) and tried a new EGR and EVP sensor and it still threw the check engine light. It turned out to be one of the two vacuum hoses from the coffee can had split creating a vacuum leak. Try to find out what code it's throwing and we might be able to help you figure it out.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 133
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From: Sacramento
the EVP (EGR Valve Position) sensor is the black or grey plastic part on top of the EGR valve. It has a 3 wire harness going to it. It is held to the EGR valve by 3 nuts. This sensor is just a potentiometer(technical way of saying it is a variable resistor).
the 3 wires going to it and I don't know the colors, cause I don't have my book, are 5 volt, ground and signal return.
When I get home I'll look up the wire colors.
the 3 wires going to it and I don't know the colors, cause I don't have my book, are 5 volt, ground and signal return.
When I get home I'll look up the wire colors.