okay well there are a bunch of random things happening so I sure hope somebody can help me asap. I don't want this truck going to a shop for them to charge me hundreds or even a thousand dollars

Interior Lamp Relay buzzes on and off incredibly fast. I can unplug the plug which contains the dome light wire, door lock wires, and along with a bunch of other wires and the relay stops buzzing which I'm sure it's just because the interior lights run through that plug. The plug is located just to the right of the steering assembly above the gas pedal.

If the horn switch is pressed then the horn will stay active unless by either removing the horn fuse or horn relay. Once its plugged back in it will stop until again pressed. Now occasionally the horn will just randomly go off. Must be some kind of back feed, idk that's why im here lol

The radio and power windows stay active. The black/green wire from the ignition switch has ~11 volts and the gray/yellow had ~5 volts. This is without the key in the ignition. There is a relay under the radio that stays active also. I connected my power probe and induced a ground into the bk/gn wire and the radio and power window circuits die along with the "Accessory Delay Relay" (relay 5 in under dash fuse box) and that relay under the radio shut off. Hope that has some meaning to this issue. Although the "Interior Lamp Relay" stays buzzing.

Also the lights on all the control switches in the door panels or on, don't know if they come on with the accessory/ignition circuit that is active or not but just figured i would through that in.

What could be the issue and how can I fix this? If anyone can maybe help led me in the right path that would be great.

If anyone is in the Oklahoma City area and can resolve my problem I'll definitely buy you some beer

 

MAN, you probably need a vu-do for this...

 

Relays buzz for three reasons, a coil inside has deteriorated, lack of voltage supplied to the relay, bad pathway. You seem to have many relays buzzing so it is possible but unlikely that all have gone bad. Poor supply voltage or bad pathway are more likely. First check your total charging system to confirm you have full power available at batteries, alternator, PCM, FICM, and central junction box. Next up is to check ALL grounds. And finally is to check for bad switches. Many of the ford electrical seeks new paths when an intended ground is bad but this is usually in connection to lights, Main light switch, and the multifunction (turn signal/Flasher/washer/wiper/brake/hi-lo headlight) switch. I don't see lights and switches as relating to your issue.

Normally, door locks, auto window controls, and radio are supposed to be controlled by the security module. Windows, remote mirrors, and radio are supposed to work in ACC, and RUN but not in OFF or START. However, after the vehicle has been run the Window, radio and mirror control are supposed to stay active for a time period or until a door is opened (whichever happen first). This is handled by the secuirty module. Also this module activates interior lighting during keyless entry or remote entry or after the vehicle has been shut off. The feature is called 'courtesy service'. Thusly, it would seem that this circuit may be ok.

The ignition switch should have at least 12v on it but the ~5v doesn't sound right. I have no ignition wiring coloring or schematic so I can't confirm this.

 

Looking at your name, have you added any type of aftermarket accesories or had them added?

 

1) Designed, Built and replace stock box with custom flat deck with under deck storage. See 'my photos' or check out We Are Unique Main Site for instructions and pictures of how it was done.
2) Upgraded 110A Alternator 2 Battery system to a 185A Alternator selectable 2 or 4 battery system (1700cca / 150A) or (3400cca / 300A) respectively. Switch modes are Charge 4 batteries, isolate front from rear batteries, Boost using 4 batteries. See specs in 'My Photo's'
3) Currently working to eliminate wiring hack job under dash done by previous owner in an attempt to resolve electrical troubles.
4) Currently working on complete digital control panel/relay panel to correct what I perceive as a **** poor wiring plan done by ford.

At issue is:My solution:
Make one relay panel with DRL, Trailer (reverse, left,right, park, charge), truck (reverse, left, right, park). Configure this panel so that
the multifunction switch with modified wirng and switches drives the panel, re-run the lights wiring such that instead of having 56 junctions on long runs of wires we end up with 19 straight runs of wiring.
Make one readout panel with leds for P-R-N-D-3-2-1-4x4L-4x4H and the option to either leave switching in Multifunction or move it to readout panel. Option to add ScanGaugeII onto panel face.

When I get it all figured out I will post PCB layouts for relay panel and display/switch panel, Wiring diagrams, and finished look.

that's about it for now.

 

Tech, I knew that about you. I was actually referring to OP. I was curious if somebody may have hacked into something as well maybe causing his issues.

 

I had all of the same issues you are having. I had a donor truck (not telling why it was in my drive). After hours of tracing and replacing switches and fuses and relays I replaced the GEM. Problem solved. I dont understand why and it makes no sense as not all of the components that were acting up run through the GEM. But the problem is now fixed. I wont say that it was a bad GEM as it could have been connections or something else. Just saying you might want to check it out.

 

the issues were due to the batteries. they were not holding a good charge. they were showing 12.5 volts at rest but i'm assuming not enough amperage to work the computers and such

thanks for the help

actually I own that company, Audio Extremist, in the Oklahoma City area so i figured why not make it my username also. help carry my name around LOL. but no it was actually the batteries and no there isn't a lot of aftermarket stuff in this truck. it's a work truck mostly. my toys are a 04 Mustang GT and a Suzuki Katana 600c

 

Glad you got it fixed.... I was just curious when I asked that in case something added needed to be figured into the repair.