OK Folks, I read through a ton of these posts about hard start to no start situations, I am in the same boat as many of the others, I did heed the other posts info and ran some tests on mine so here is what I am looking at.

2006 Ford F350 6.0 Diesel, before it got cold down to the 40's at night it would run really ruff for about 15 min sluggish throttle control, dealer said that was normal till it got warm, now that the temps are dropping to low 30's at night it is not wanting to start in the mornings sometimes, not all the time though, and when it starts there is very little white smoke blowing, ran the FICM tests that was recommended here are the results.
BATT Cold both were between 12.5 and 12.8 VDC
FICM check w/o key in 47.8 VDC
FICM check w/Key on w Buzz 22.5 VDC
FICM Crank 45.5-46.5 VDC
The oil was just changed @122038 by a Ford dealer and fuel filters were changed using motor craft filters.
The only other thing I can mention is that I have noticed that if the vacuam pump does not come on when I turn the key that the truck won't start if it does then it starts but runs ruff for about 10-15 min, I have checked for vacuam leak and cracked lines but have found nothing.
So there it is, any Ideas or checks that you can come up with would be great, getting ready to take it to the dealer to get it put on a machine, unfortunatly Autozone didn"t have the SD2 in so I put it on order.

Andy
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Why run more tests, your FICM is bad

 

I just bought my scanguage2 on amazon.com for 149.95 with free 2 day shipping (im a amazon prime member). I am in process of fixing a hpop leak myself.

 

FICM Repair.com - Your Source for FICM Repair

 

Ok, well sounds pretty sure that I need a FICM rebuild so I will pull it and call them in the morning, get it sent so I can have my truck back, Thanks for the input guys, I can see that this forum will become my new hangout online.

Andy

 

First off Welcome to FTE

your ficm voltage is low but not that low you maybe able to reflow the solder joints per the tech folder and bring that ficm voltage around

check it out
https://www.ford-trucks.com/ford-manuals/FICM.pdf

If you dont feel comfortable doing it send it to
www.ficmrepair.com


good luck with it

 

Benny - his voltage at "Key On" was 22.5V

 

Was that during initial buzz? I thought it could dip at this point due to the glowplugs being on. Is that not right? Honestly I'm confused been a long day/weekend.

 

It should never be below 45V

IMO, a person should be considering a repair procedure below 47V assuming the batteries are in good shape (but that is just me).

Which reminds me ,,,,,

Incom_98 - I would load test the batteries if you haven't already.
There should be absolutely NO ISSUE with running rough and being sluggish at 40 degrees!
Also, the vacuum pump does not have any connection to the engine.

 

Gotcha

I misread or really missed it

I thought it was only down to 45-46 volts

But 22 volts that would be alot to recover from just soldering

 

Had the batteries load tested, both were good, alread have the FICM out boxed and ready to ship, just keeping fingers crossed that it corrects it

 

Well got word back from ED on the FICM, it will be here tomarrow, and you guys were right 2 out of 4 of the points were bad so hopefully it takes care of my issues, Thanks for all the help guys.
Andy

 

Thanks for the update - let us know when you get it installed!

 

So here is the update, got the FICM installed got the SGII in and set, cranked the truck and it died first crank, hit the key a second time and the beast fired idled ruff for maybe 60 seconds and smoothed out no miss no knock ran smooth, test drove it I can see why everyone likes the SGII, So Thank you to the guys who set me on the right trouble shooting track, it made a heck of a difference.

Andy

P.S. SGII shows no codes, and Voltage charging at 14 Volts running

 

Glad you got her runnin'