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98 explorer needing some help

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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 05:49 AM
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98 explorer needing some help

Ok where to start. I have a 98 ford explorer with a 4.0l OHV engine close to 280,000km. There is a leak coming from somewhere around the oil filter but there seems to be oil coming from more then one spot. Second issue is when a idle the voltage seems to die a bit until I hit the gas and it returns to normal but this issue seems intermediate at times. And I have just replaced the oil filter for the second time no second gasket. also iam having a tranny shift flare problem from second to third and when it is under alot of pressure in the bush going up hills it just kicks out of gear and roles back. And another issue is seems like maybe my power steering pump may be bad when I am idiling it seems to pulsate and when I change the position of the steering wheel the pulasting will go away or not be as bad.

Thanks in advance.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 08:23 AM
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Take it to the mechanic.

Your trans probably needs serviced, maybe a linkage issue or shift solenoids.

Your voltage can fluctuate at idle.

Service your power steering pump. Check the level..do a fluid flush on it that may help.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 08:35 AM
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For your leak I would clean the engine to the best that you can and put dye into the oil, drive for a day then use a black light at night to see if you locate the source of the leak. only things I can think of on that side of the block is oil filter neck gasket (between the neck and block) and valve cover gasket. I would also check to see if you got any dirt around the mounting plate for the oil filter.

Idle maybe your TPS may have a dead spot in it. What voltage are you getting at idle?

Transmission I agree with Senix

Power Steering I also agree with Senix. Prob a flush is more recommended as the fluid prob lost its agents. When you do the flush make sure both front wheels are off the ground when trying to purge the system of air.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 12:07 PM
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I was doing some more reading on the tranny issue seems there is a issue with those having a 2-3 shift flare I am thinking maybe this could be the issue now. Maybe replace the valve body in the tranny. checked the head gasket area no oil there I am thinking it is were it mates to the engine block. or one of the main seals not to sure. Gonna look harder today I suppose. What is a good way to check the alternator. My revs do not change just the voltage on my dash drops till I hit the gas. I have a brand new battery.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 03:39 AM
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In regards to the leak near the oil filter, you may want to check and make sure the filter wasn't double-gasketed.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2011 | 06:25 PM
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Yeah just replaced the filter still oil. I think the rear main seal is done. I think I can replace that just by taking off the oil pan not sure. Also for the voltage issue it is only sometimes when I put it in gear and come to a stop at a light. It then goes back to normal as soon as I am back on the gas.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2011 | 07:04 PM
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I believe you have to drop the transmission in order to replace the rear main with your engine. Not an easy job. You may want to try a stop leak product just for laughs.

A poor man's way to test that the alternator is working is to use a voltmeter. Check battery voltage prior to starting the car, then immediately after (with some accessories turned on for good measure). Voltage value should increase when engine's running to ~14V or so. If voltage doesn't increase or goes down, there's something amiss in with charging system.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2011 | 09:53 PM
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Is there a way to test the alternator directly voltage wise.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2011 | 10:08 PM
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Seagull just gave you the procedure, use a volt meter..... Philip
 
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Old Nov 10, 2011 | 11:59 PM
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Yeah got that so far I will try that out tomorrow. The thing that gets me is it does not do it all the time. When it does happen you can hear everything die down and see the lights dim alot. Even when the engine is under load the needle on the volt guage is barely on the low side of the battery. That is what it shows as a volt guage just a battery. I will test it tomorrow.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 07:09 AM
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Since you mention it is a brand new battery, you'll want to be sure the connections at the battery are clean and tight. Also, if the terminal ends are the bolt-on temporary style with exposed copper wire strands rather than the molded style, you may have a lot of corrosion forming on and between the copper strands. The long term solution then would be to buy molded cables for your application.

-Rod
 
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 07:59 AM
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You may also want to check the alternator belt to make sure it's in good shape and has sufficient tension.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 01:08 PM
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Yeah just cleaned the connections so that should be good. I am about to run the test on the battery see what the volts are reading.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 01:19 PM
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Regarding the trans flare between gears. This is a standared feature of the 5 speed automatic. My new trans from Ford did it withing a few thousand miles of installation. The independant shop I use put some Justice Brothers snake oil in it and it stopped.

So, I would pull the pan, clean it out, can't recall if there is a filter in there--if there is replace it. New fluid and some JB or other fine brand transmission additive. You'll have to read the propaganda on the stuff, see what they claim. "Firmer shifts" is what you want.

You may also consider an in-line filter in the cooler lines. Ford does this when they replace transmissions.

Like so:

http://www.amazon.com/Wix-58964-Line...ata/B0014BCFC0
 
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 02:15 PM
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Thanks for the info ya for that little bit of money why not if it could save more down the road.
 
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