No I went back with OEM cooler

I flushed its guts out then ran a coolant filter for 5000miles with a coolant filter change in there

then another round of flushing right before I changed the oil cooler and new coolant filter

this time of year I see 4-6 degree spread

in the heat of the summer 95*+ 6-10* spread so far

Im not worried If it plugs up again I will change it wasnt to bad in the driveway I was a little slow 4 days with a full egr deleate & oil cooler rebuild and some other stuff
Probably do it over a weekend again if the time comes again Im nit picky and triple check everything and make it spotless

 

Make sure your temp readings from the SGII read nearly the same after a cold soak.

 

Cold soak? What's that like rain?

 

Rain LOL

cold soak is letting the truck sit for 12 hours or more all temps should be the same ECT and EOT and TFT

It verifys the gauge accuarcy

 

A question about this cold soak: Will the scanguage2 check these temps without the engine running, or can you check em with just the key on?

Truck has been sitting since 8 pm last night. It is 30 degF this morning, so I m assuming it has been soaked pretty well!

 

that should be long enough

Check them right at startup Immediatly

 

I don't know where to go from here? I changed my oil cooler, thermostat, oil temp sender, and I still have a 40 degree difference. Any ideas? When I checked the temp I would drive to town (stop and go for 10 min) then hook up scanner drive highway 60 - 70 mph for 5- 10 min. Am I not driving long enough on highway to equalize temps? Any sugestions?

 

you need to take the spread when the temps max out after the coolant hits 190*

what were your numbers

 

Did you do the vc9 flush ducky?.sounds like it may have plugged up again.search oil cooler backflush and do it asap.mine went 500 miles and plugged again.I ended up putting in a radiator to.luckily backflushing my cooler saved it.one other thing,what are your temps after sitting all night?.your scanner should read them key on engine off.in town my temps are 2-3* difference stop and go driving.freeway at 60 they're 5*,65 is 7*,70 is 8-9*.

 

The temps were 185-7 and 230-236. Do you think it's possible it pluged up after 20min fast idle, sat overnight then went to town? And if so can I use vc9 again without hurting anything?

 

Man thats very fast for it to plug again

Verify after cold soak that all fluid temps are the same or within a couple degrees ECT & EOT & TFT

I think there may be something eles going on here water pump issue front cover cavitation
You maynot be getting good coolant flow

 

Do you know of any way to check for coolant flow?

 

I do not know of a way to check for flow

Did you flush it good before you changed the oil cooler out

 

When i did my coolant flush i used 48 gallons of distilled water 1/2 gallon of Restore then 5 flushes then 1/2 gallon Restore+ then 6 flushes 12.5 hrs of my time 1/4 tank of fuel 3 1/2 gallons of Delo ELC coolant they said it was over kill but it is clean with deltas of 4-6* here is the flush i used.
Flushing and cleaning the 6.0

Restore is for cleaning out any silicate goo. VC-9 is for cleaning out iron and scale. Restore Plus is the same as VC-9 and cheaper.

To flush drain the coolant by removing the lower radiator hose from the radiator, and removing the drain plug from the driver side of the block. There is a drain plug on the passenger side also but you have to remove the starter to get to it. I don't bother with that one.
I also highly recommend you pull the thermostat out on your first drain and put the housing back without the thermostat. It only takes about 10 minutes and will save you 2.5 hrs or so in doing this whole procedure.

Ok now put the lower hose back on and the drain plug back in the block if you removed it. This is the procedure you will use each time to drain the system, except you will not touch the thermostat again until you're finished the whole procedure. Make sure that you set your heater to high while doing this to flush out the heater core as well.

Fill the cooling system with distilled water, start the truck and let the water circulate for 5 minutes. (if you did not remove the thermostat you must run the truck until the thermostat opens + 5 minutes to circulate. This takes 15 to 20 minutes each cycle and is why you should just remove the thermostat) Stop the engine. Drain the system and repeat the flush.

Now add at least 1/2 gallon of Restore and fill with distilled water. I used cardboard in front of the radiator because you have to get to 185* 190* for these products to work. Drive truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes just before you get back from your drive remove the cardboard this will help in the cool down same on the Restore+ flush. Drain and flush 3 or 4 times. or tell clean

Add 2qts VC-9 or 1/2gal of Restore Plus, top with distilled water, and drive the truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes. Now drain and flush until flush water comes out clear and clean. When you get clean flush water, flush 3 more times using distilled water while draining the block.

After your final distilled water drain it is time to put the thermostat back in. I recommend you install a new thermostat at this point. They are only $20 or so and it is good maintenance procedure to do so. Fill with 3.5 or 4 gals of ELC concentrated coolant and top off with distilled water. Drive the truck or let run for a while topping off with distilled water. Check the truck over the next few days and top up as required while any air left in the system works its way out.

Keep some 50/50 ELC on hand to use to top off the cooling system from here out and you are good to go.

new t/stat from Ford it should all come together (housing-t/stat-o-ring) in a box. The part number is RT-1169

Here is the Restore Product from Cummins dealer
http://www.fleetguard.com/pdfs/produ...LI33024-GB.pdf
pop

 

There is a shorter procedure I believe.. But yours sounds adequate... I need to do mine soon