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How weak are the automatics?

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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 08:16 AM
  #1  
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How weak are the automatics?

I've had my 2000 F250 2WD 7.3L with 6 speed manual for a few years now. I tow about 10K pounds and have never had a problem with the powertrain.

I'm now looking to upgrade to an F-350 Dually so I can run a truck camper with this setup and not exceed GVWR. Unfortunately, the 6 speed duallys are hard to find. I've always avoided the Ford automatics, believing they are inefficient in general and weak in a pulling scenario.

What do you guys think? Would an automatic be okay, or should I plan on rebuilds every so often? I'm looking at a 99-02 model years...

Thanks,

HRJ
 
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 08:31 AM
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Avoid the 2001 models with the "mechanical diode" one-way clutch, unless it has been rebuilt/replaced. It is the weak link in those models. I wouldn't say that the 4R100 is a bad transmission, in general. I would, however, do a few upgrades; i.e. bigger trans cooler and shift kit. I would also add a trans temp gauge.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 08:41 AM
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So are the 99-2000 autos better than the 01? I'm completely ignorant of the modern Ford automatics...I lost track after C6.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 08:42 AM
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The 4R100 has a good reputation, but John Woods or BTS have great reputations for beefing these up.

A good chip and gauges is the way I went after I burned my transmission (from inexperience) and beefed up the transmission.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by HRJoe
So are the 99-2000 autos better than the 01? I'm completely ignorant of the modern Ford automatics...I lost track after C6.
From the mechanical diode standpoint, yes. It was the only model year that had them. IIRC, the '99's did not have the oil-to-water trans cooler in the lower radiator tank. The later models were equipped with both the OTW and an auxillary oil-to-air cooler.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 09:15 AM
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I pull a gooseneck trailer often with a tractor or skid steer on it. I have never had a transmission problem.
Purchased new, maybe i got the good one.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by mueckster
Avoid the 2001 models with the "mechanical diode" one-way clutch, unless it has been rebuilt/replaced. It is the weak link in those models. I wouldn't say that the 4R100 is a bad transmission, in general. I would, however, do a few upgrades; i.e. bigger trans cooler and shift kit. I would also add a trans temp gauge.
I read on here somewhere that the mech. diode models were only produced the first 3 months or so of that model year. Wondering if mine has that. Sorry for the hijack.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by HRJoe
I've had my 2000 F250 2WD 7.3L with 6 speed manual for a few years now. I tow about 10K pounds and have never had a problem with the powertrain.

I'm now looking to upgrade to an F-350 Dually so I can run a truck camper with this setup and not exceed GVWR. Unfortunately, the 6 speed duallys are hard to find. I've always avoided the Ford automatics, believing they are inefficient in general and weak in a pulling scenario.

What do you guys think? Would an automatic be okay, or should I plan on rebuilds every so often? I'm looking at a 99-02 model years... Thanks HRJ
I too went the dually route, mainly for the auto trany, as the clutch was getting to hard on my knee. And it halls my truck camper better as well.
I talked with a tranny tech who knows the 4r100 well and he says as long as you stay within there limits, they do great. As for mine it won't see much heavy hauling, maybe the camper and trailer with atv's on the back.
- Bill
 
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 09:38 AM
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My automatic isn't weak at all
 
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by DISLFVR
I read on here somewhere that the mech. diode models were only produced the first 3 months or so of that model year. Wondering if mine has that. Sorry for the hijack.
Mine was produced in 10/2000, so that may correct. I thought I read somewhere that there was a code on the trans tag that would indicate its presence.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 10:05 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by DISLFVR
I read on here somewhere that the mech. diode models were only produced the first 3 months or so of that model year. Wondering if mine has that. Sorry for the hijack.
No, it was the first nine months of 2001 production. There is a tag on the driver's side of the transmission with a date code of when the trans was built. An easier way to tell is the blue data tag inside the driver's door opening. It has a month/year on it. In 2001 transmissions were installed in the truck the same day they were built at the transmission factory.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
No, it was the first nine months of 2001 production. There is a tag on the driver's side of the transmission with a date code of when the trans was built. An easier way to tell is the blue data tag inside the driver's door opening. It has a month/year on it. In 2001 transmissions were installed in the truck the same day they were built at the transmission factory.
My door tag says 06/01, but then it's supposed to have a shift kit in it so maybe the mech. diode is gone.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 01:45 PM
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Get a 6.0 tranny cooler and a BTS or JW vb and your golden. I'm at 325k on my stocker. And I make sure to run straight transmission fluid. No synthetic blend or full synthetic. It's hard on the torque converter. (this is my honest opinion, others have done it without issue)

good luck!!!
 
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 02:18 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by DISLFVR
My door tag says 06/01, but then it's supposed to have a shift kit in it so maybe the mech. diode is gone.
A shift kit doesn't replace the mechanical diode. The last mechanical diode was installed in February or March (the memory is starting to fade) of 2001. A June build truck would not have one.

Originally Posted by jkidd_39
Get a 6.0 tranny cooler and a BTS or JW vb and your golden. I'm at 325k on my stocker. And I make sure to run straight transmission fluid. No synthetic blend or full synthetic. It's hard on the torque converter. (this is my honest opinion, others have done it without issue
I can't for the life of me figure out how you would have come to that conclusion. Care to share?

I would recommend full synthetic to get the longest life from the transmission. I can't imagine how it could be bad for the torque converter.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
I can't for the life of me figure out how you would have come to that conclusion. Care to share?

I would recommend full synthetic to get the longest life from the transmission. I can't imagine how it could be bad for the torque converter.
Well I have no concrete proof of any sort. All I do have two work trucks. One in my sig. 325k always ran straight dinosaur tranny fluid. Always hooked to either a 24ft pintle or 36ft gooseneck (22-28k gross) on the stock tranny.

I also have my other work truck 250k, on it's 3rd ford factory tranny. My dad maintains this one and only runs ford synthetic blend. Every tranny has popped right after the warranty ran out. 37k, 143k, and 247k. Seems to me that's some great return work to design the fluid to keep it alive till out of warranty.

And the other thing is Brian @ BTS told me to not use synthetic in the stock Trannys bc of the torque converter. He seems to be a pretty shape cookie when it comes to these units.

Its quite obvious you know a ton more about the 4R than I do but this is just the info I have acquired over the last 700k miles.

If I am wrong I'm always open to admitting it.
 
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