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Nov 7, 2011 | 10:41 PM

#16

1stonracday

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How i figured it out was following the Haynes repair manual for ford f 150 exactly the way they tell you to do it ....

Nov 7, 2011 | 10:55 PM

#17

rla2005

Fleet Owner

Joined: Oct 2005

Posts: 20,786

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From: Kentucky

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1stonracday

1st i connected a test light between the tach terminal and a good engine ground and cranked it over. the light came on and stayed on with out flashing . so what that meant was the primary had a problem... ie a stuck transistor in the icm or a problem in the harness. so i checked it all down to doing this test near the distributer on pin one measuring the pip output voltage which is ac voltage btw when cranking you should get 3.0 to 8.0 volts ac . i got zero then i unplugged the pcm and it was perfect . so the pcm is shorting the pip out .. i pulled the pcm out and took the top off and low and behold there is a capacitor that was blown up on the board.... and ford i found out doesnt make the pcm anymore...

Excellent troubleshooting and feedback. You can replace the capacitor yourself if you know how to solder. If the cap has corroded the board too bad, then you will have to replace it.

I am not a fan of A1 Cardone replacement, NAPA and a few other used to carry Standard Motor Products brand. Well worth the money if you can find them.

I do shy away from pointing toward a PCM causing a no PIP signal issue early on in the troubleshooting process, but it seems like it is happening a little more often these days.

Nov 10, 2011 | 10:35 PM

#18

1stonracday

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Yeah after examining the the pcm and a little testing and soldering 4.50 worth of capacitors and 3 diodes , My F-150 runs better than ever it really is worth the time i put into learning how electronics circuits work....thanks for all the input you guys if i can help you let me know and i will do my best

Nov 12, 2011 | 02:52 PM

#19

firewood truck

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Joined: May 2011

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From: Charm City

Thanks to this thread and RLA2005's great advice, I was able to use the links provided and trouble shoot my 'no spark' issue that left me stranded on Thursday. My issue turned out to be the hall sender was bad, so I pulled the dizzy, took it apart and replaced the old sender. I also did the ICM as well although the old one tested out ok.

Nov 14, 2011 | 09:27 PM

#20

1stonracday

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well It was fixed but the next components on the board went out so i just spent 379.00 on the exact pcm it was a high quality remanufactured one ....
I will update as soon as i get the new pcm..