two weeks ago was driving up the grade (slauterhouse canyon on hwy 67 ) and my 93 f 150 4x4 5.8 v8 was doing excellent fully loaded as i blew by this chevy , i just put a new tranmission in my truck sort of a test run anyway , and all at once it started slowing down and it was still running but had no power whatso ever . i managed to get it to the top of the hill turned around went back home it seemed as if the timing retarded itself,
i limped into a 711 parking lot and opened the hood advanced the distributer 4 or 5 degrees , hit the key it started and ran ok almost normal, continued home . the next day i set the timing to factory specs and ran fine but stalled at stop lights when i would restart it it wouldnt idle then it would clear up . on my way home from work it just quit .so i have relaced the modual, the coil , and found the distributer was worn out the top bearing was shot alowing contact of internal components the pip and plate under the rotor. still not getting any spark after replacing all three where do i go next , its been down for a week now and i need it for work any help would be greatly appreiciated

 

someone told me the crank sensor could cause this ??? where is this located?

 

There is no crank sensor on your vintage truck. The "implied" crankshaft position is loosely interpreted by the PIP sensor in the distributor. Verify you have +12VDC on the positive side of the coil with the key in Start/Run position.

Was the "new" distributor rebuilt or brand new?

 

Man, dying under a high load situation like that would scare me. What RPM are you running up that grade?

Do you know for sure that it is a no spark condition? quick test of the coil back is to put a plug in the coil wire, ground it, crank, and watch for spark in that plug. If thats good, try a few of the actual plug wires. If you have spark at each plug, I would check compression. And if you have fuel pressure gauge, check that too (at the rail).

 

the distributor was a rebuilt , when it died coming home from work , it just quit has no spark

 

Many of those "rebuilt" distributors have bad PIPs in them. Most remanufacturer's do not heat test them. It's very possible to have a bad distributor, with the same issue as your original, right out of the box.

The Stator aka PIP is the device that tells the PCM to trigger the Ignition Control Module (ICM) also referred to as the TFI module. The TFI can also break down under heat load. It can be removed and tested.

I reference this write-up from my buddy Joel5.0 quite often: SBFTech.com TFI Module/Hall Sensor Testing Procedure

 

my modual is located on the fenderwell and i am gonna pull the distributer and take it back have it tested .... thanks so much for that info i am getting power to the coil

 

Dude Im battling the same issue right now, My truc was running awesome and boom just died out of no where, And today I checked and was getting no spark from the coil, I tried that before the icm. and still no spark brand new coil. So I pulled the distributor today and had a hell of a time finding a 5.5 or 7/32 that fits in that hole. I need my truck from work too. I hope it fixes mine, And this pip is inside the distributor?

 

Yes it is: Ford Fuel Injection » Stator (RPM)

 

Well to my dismay the is Powertrain control mod .... it needs a new computer..

 

How did you come to that conclusion?

 

If my pip is bad in my distributor , and/or my Igntion control module, the coil will still get spark right?

 

im trying to chase down my no spark issue without havinbg to go 22 miles to the part store everytime I find out its not what the problem is hahaha. Thanks

 

If the PIP or/and ICM is bad your coil WILL NOT, spark. The PIP is the trigger to the neg. side of coil. I am having this same problem exactly, 1994 4.9L, i have replaced everything in the ignition system, other than PCM. Still no fire. Replaced PIP,rotor, dizzy cap, plugs, wires, coil, icm, ignition switch under dash, ignition key switch, checked all wiring, relays, fuses, codes, EVERYTHING. still no fire. Have been reading and reading on here seen this same story a number of times, but no end to stories, the fix.

 

1st i connected a test light between the tach terminal and a good engine ground and cranked it over. the light came on and stayed on with out flashing . so what that meant was the primary had a problem... ie a stuck transistor in the icm or a problem in the harness. so i checked it all down to doing this test near the distributer on pin one measuring the pip output voltage which is ac voltage btw when cranking you should get 3.0 to 8.0 volts ac . i got zero then i unplugged the pcm and it was perfect . so the pcm is shorting the pip out .. i pulled the pcm out and took the top off and low and behold there is a capacitor that was blown up on the board.... and ford i found out doesnt make the pcm anymore...