how does AAL compare to lift blocks?

I have been looking into this and it seems like an AAL is cheaper than the lift blocks..

 

They'll give you the same height change, with a stiffer ride and less articulation. For 2 inches it's tomaytoe tomahtoe, neither will be drastically different from stock, just 2 inches taller. I really doubt AALs are cheaper, because you'll still need new u-bolts, but now you'll also need new longer center pins for each pack, plus a beefy pair of deep C-clamps if you don't already have some.

As crappy as it is, I'd say just buy the correct factory blocks and factory u-bolts (reuse the original nuts) and go with it. It'll all fit perfectly with no cutting or hassle, and it takes about 15 minutes a side.

 

just thought I would ask haha... I was just reading a 4wd magazine and it had a blurb on aal vs blocks, and it made me do a search for AAL kits and it seemed like they were cheaper..

The article actually said that it would choose AAL over blocks any day due to axle wrap. It got into physics about how an AAL doesnt increase the COG as much as blocks either.

I may just put the Ready Lift 2" block kit on my Christmas list from my family. Giving them a bunch of FORD part numbers could be a big mistake haha.

 

AALs have very important advantages in lifts for actual wheeling and trucks that see a lot of weight, especially on vehicles that didn't come with blocks, or for swaps with very tall (>5") blocks.. But since what you're doing is swapping factory options, your 4" blocks aren't going to cause any issues other than what a half million F350 drivers experience daily.

You said the Readylift 2" kit.... you aren't thinking about stacking anything are you? Go for solid 4" blocks, stacking is major fail.

I'm a big proponent of the tapered blocks for the short wheel bases, but it's not the end of the world if you don't get them. I used Ford u-bolts because I'm OCD about stuff matching and having shiny grade 8 u bolts sticking out like a sore thumb under my truck would put me in an institution.

 

What if the OP welds the blocks together?

 

Sorry to jump in on the end here but, I too am looking to lift the rear of my 2012 F250 extended cab short bed. I do not like the new look of the rear being lower than the front from the factory. I know everyone seemed to want to level the front of their trucks to make them seem level. Seems like Ford went too far and lowered the rear below the front. Anyway, from what I'm reading, the F350 has the 4" rear block vs. the F250's 2" block. Has anyone checked prices from Ford on what the F350 bump stop blocks cost? Seems they would be the same as the Readylift 4" kit. Guess cost would be the difference.

If you add 2" lift to the rear, do you have to add longer shocks? Would 2" make a difference?

Thanks, Mark

 

You would have to check prices at your local dealer, and you could also check www.partsguyed.com.

I believe both F-250 and 350 use the same shocks, so there would be no need to change them.

 

I am putting on a set of Readylift 4" blocks and u bolts.$140.00
No you don't need to changed shocks.
Also I looked for larger blocks from Ford and they use the same part # for the 250,350,450 all 2".

 

Just to give a update, I ended up ordering the readylift 2" rear kit. I had the kit in hand and ready to install and I thought.. I should jack up the read and see what this looks like. So I stuck a jack under the hitch and lifted it up 2". MAN it was UGLY!! It looked like the front needed a 2" lift kit. Then a friend of mine told me that my truck is level and to measure if from the frame not the fender well clearance, like I was doing.

 

I was wanting to add 1.5" blocks to the existing blocks on my '06 F250 to make it look more level with the front. I have the blocks already measured and cut, they are square-not tapered, and are 3x5x1.5".