As said my F250 frame on the ugly stick thread bent plowing this past Sat/Sun. It the ear in front of the front cross member. Its now just a plow truck as it was meant to be anyways. No more fix it up work. New plan - work it till it quits and cut it up for scrap when the next one gets here.

Now for fixes.

My plan as of the moment is to cut one off a parts truck between the 2nd and 3rd rivets (front to back just behind shock mount) of the engine cross member. Pin it all up with the rivet holes and weld+fish and bolt it into place.

Lets discuss this and its longevity plowing.

I was shown another 95 F250 plow rig that has the same damage as mine that was heated pulled and half arsed fished and has plowed 3 more years w/o issue since the repair also is a form truck (Heavy hauler - full bed and racks of create crusted 12-14 foot 2 x 12's) My fish plate/welds will be much more significant also remove the crush zone, just for my own piece of mind. I wont replace the full frame, Ill burn it first... Lets talk repair this is a plow truck and the suspension is located from the rear . Front shackle is insignificant in the safety department with repair ..


Thoughts??? Pics to follow

 

Pics will help but speaking from experience people often over think frame repairs on work trucks. Especially since this will not be regularly highway driven, just get it operational and presentable. No need to go overboard. If it helps add some supports or gussets and it will be stronger than it was!

I spent 10+ years in late model collision at a shop that ran about 120k a month so I have seen a lot. Like i said, people often over think repairs like this on work trucks.


Just my .02

Z

 

Z your just the person I do want input from!

I should have said "City" plow truck. It will be on the road and plowing city roads not for parking lots. Just not a daily driver. I know from that other truck I can use bubble gum and it will be ok. I am going to take out the crush zones so it wont/cant happen again though. Next time I want it to snap clean off, if its going to go... The thought about using the rivets was to put it all in line/true with the existing truck and not need to take any measurements other then to make my cuts. Not an over thought... more simplified for segmenting = all rivet holes line up, its true to glue. After looking at it more and the doner trucks rail I am thinking of taking it back to just before the rear leaf spring point. Then I can cut a piece channel at 45's \_/ and just fish the full frame over the cut. I don't see 4 hours of work start to finish if my plow frame comes off clean. How would you repair the from that cross member up to the bumper?

 

ETA, If you do the repair you outlined it will be A1! I have done that repair several times. If it is not to much trouble, that is the way to go! I repaired a jeep with totally rusted out frame rails with box mild steel and it was not to bad. (had to remove the gas tank but after that only about 10hrs and that was with having to make areas to mount the leaf springs). I think you will be fine and with that said usually those that overthink just a little end up with a good repair in a reasonable amount of time! Sounds like you are on the right track. Please feel free to email with any questions!

Z

I see your point. I have had good luck with mild steel and a measuring tape. Get box steel 3/16 or 1/4 thick and measure out nicely. Weld in a few gusset stye supports where there is room. I really do not see it being a problem. What I really meant was if you are not driving it for comfort on medium to long range trips, safety is all that matters.You are not gonna tear up tires or notice big differences at plow speeds of you are taking reasonable care with the repair.Sounds like you are going the same route I would.

Z