partial frame repalcement for a beaten plow truck
#1
partial frame repalcement for a beaten plow truck
so I broke one of my own rules and bought a used plow truck with frame problems. there was some obvious damage near the passenger side plow mount because, you know.. plow.The body was near perfect, only surface rust underneath (by Northeast standards), the interior was MINT, it had a really good Western Pro Plow Plus, tires and brakes were near new, and it only had 33k on the clock. the price was right, too.
got it home, and the first thing I did was pull the plow mount off near the bad spot. then I got sick. Part of the frame on the underside of the passenger frame rail under the plow mount was so rotten, it came off with the mount. never seen anything like this where every other part of the truck is solid, but there's a giant rot spot in the frame. IF the truck had even looked part way rusty, I'd have gone all over the frame with a fine tooth comb. My only guess is that maybe they parked it next to rain spout every day by the front passenger wheel.
I really thought I was going to have to scrap a truck I just bought, and no welder would touch the frame as it sat. Did a little research and found out there's a riveted and welded splice just ahead of the cab on our trucks. the front frame clip is actually replaceable. the front frame clip is also obsoleted by Ford for the 1999-2004 models (thanks, Ford), but I did get a good used one from Texas for $250.
the swap was surprisingly easy. all that really needs done is to block up the truck under the cab, drop the axle, take off all the little accessory stuff and the steering box, and pull two body mounts. the body will hold itself up, no need to remove, and the engine can just dangle from a hoist while working under it. total swap time, not including prep was about 4 hours.
the actual splice is pretty much idiot proof. the frame is a C-channel, and the factory splice is a nested C-channel inside with 5 rivets that index into specific holes. All I did was line up the holes, drift pin them together, and then ream them out to 1/2" for 1/2" bolts. everything lined right back up. the engine mounts dropped right in the holes, the body mounts dropped right back in their holes. the frame measured dead square.
this weekend I'll take the opportunity to go over the underside of the truck and clear out any other rust in the front. Then I'll get a welder to finish of the joint.
pics below
got it home, and the first thing I did was pull the plow mount off near the bad spot. then I got sick. Part of the frame on the underside of the passenger frame rail under the plow mount was so rotten, it came off with the mount. never seen anything like this where every other part of the truck is solid, but there's a giant rot spot in the frame. IF the truck had even looked part way rusty, I'd have gone all over the frame with a fine tooth comb. My only guess is that maybe they parked it next to rain spout every day by the front passenger wheel.
I really thought I was going to have to scrap a truck I just bought, and no welder would touch the frame as it sat. Did a little research and found out there's a riveted and welded splice just ahead of the cab on our trucks. the front frame clip is actually replaceable. the front frame clip is also obsoleted by Ford for the 1999-2004 models (thanks, Ford), but I did get a good used one from Texas for $250.
the swap was surprisingly easy. all that really needs done is to block up the truck under the cab, drop the axle, take off all the little accessory stuff and the steering box, and pull two body mounts. the body will hold itself up, no need to remove, and the engine can just dangle from a hoist while working under it. total swap time, not including prep was about 4 hours.
the actual splice is pretty much idiot proof. the frame is a C-channel, and the factory splice is a nested C-channel inside with 5 rivets that index into specific holes. All I did was line up the holes, drift pin them together, and then ream them out to 1/2" for 1/2" bolts. everything lined right back up. the engine mounts dropped right in the holes, the body mounts dropped right back in their holes. the frame measured dead square.
this weekend I'll take the opportunity to go over the underside of the truck and clear out any other rust in the front. Then I'll get a welder to finish of the joint.
pics below
#6
that's the thing; the rest of the truck is nigh perfect. for some reason, the right front corner of the frame just went away. never seen anything like it.
I mean, just look at it. the undercoating on the cab is only just starting to yellow around the corners, and the wheel arches on the fender are spotless. the rest of the truck is the same.
#7
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#8
#9
ford publishes 'upfitter' guides for 3rd party outfits that make dump beds and what not for HD trucks. google the guide for your model year and the frame diagrams are usually in them.
#11
I could write pages about how much I hate POR-15. in 20 years of trying, that stuff has always sucked. The rest of the frame is solid. but I do intend to wire wheel the whole underside to bright metal, etching primer it, and cover it with two coats of brush-on rustoleum.
#12
About to pull the bed on our truck to do brake lines and put on undercoating. A friend of mine recommended KBS undercoatings and this kit is almost excessive. You basically wire wheel the loose rust, use a cleaner/degreaser, rust eater, rust sealer, and topcoat. It just came in the mail and I'm trying it out.
In my experience, paint and primer isn't worth the time. It just traps the moisture in the rust pitting, and the metal rusts underneath. That's the kicker on this KBS stuff. The "rust seal" is supposed to address that. Guess we'll see...
My 93 Jeep YJ has seen those frame issues... Once it starts, it never stops. I was able to cut my frame with a prybar. It's fixed for now.
In my experience, paint and primer isn't worth the time. It just traps the moisture in the rust pitting, and the metal rusts underneath. That's the kicker on this KBS stuff. The "rust seal" is supposed to address that. Guess we'll see...
My 93 Jeep YJ has seen those frame issues... Once it starts, it never stops. I was able to cut my frame with a prybar. It's fixed for now.
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