I have a 2000 7.3 automatic with 190k miles on it. When I worked in heavy equipment, this truck was our parts truck. It only had 155 k miles and I kind of worked a deal to get it as part of my severance package when we were let go. The previous company that owned it used it to pull equipment with a gooseneck hitch. When my company bought it, it was used only for parts transports as it came as part of the purchase of the old distributor.

I have driven this truck off and on since 137k miles . That entire time, it has had at times a pretty nasty hard shift from 1-2. and kind of a lugging feeling when going to 3. Its not the revs way up between shifts like a diode going out as some people describe. I know mine is not supposed to have a diode. It does not do it always. Sometimes it does like you expect and others it feel as though someone kicked you in the kidneys through the back seat. It will kick you at hard throttle and at light throttle when it decides to do it. The light throttle kick is worse. It almost feels like a shift kit.

The fluid is a good color and has been serviced. Does not smell burnt. I have pulled trees, cows, cars, horses, mowers, and boats with it with no issues whatsoever. In fact, it almost does better with a little load on it like that. I figured if it was a drum/clutch internally, it would have died by now as hard as I have worked it. All the driveline is fine and backlash for differential seems the same as other trucks this model. Mounts are fine.

The truck seems to have plenty of power but then i kind of let it go at whatever speed it feels comfortable too. It does fine no matter what weight i put behind it. I have access to 2 really good diagnostic programs but what would I look for in order to see if is a power issue causing it to feel funny. The last time I hooked up to it to adjust tire revs, the only info codewise was a generic wiper motor code. (basically it did not like the wiper motor but it works).

Its my only vehicle and its been a good one. For this truck, it is just one of those things that was considered normal but they also considered non-functioning GPR normal too, despite being told otherwise. That was fixed the first day I had it. They just plugged it in when it was cold out. They could not park it in the shop b/c we did not have any heat. Other than that, I have only done normal pm stuff to it in 50 k miles.

Any ideas?

 

When my EBPS went out, my shift from 1-2 was really hard, kind of liked it actually after I changed it out, shifts are solid but seem to take slightly longer. Actually if I want it to shift nice and firm, I unplug the EBPS.

It's not likely that is your issue, but I am just sharing my experience.

 

The regulator pistons in the Accumulator Valve Body are anodized aluminum and can be prone to sticking in its bore. I replaced all 3 of mine with steel ones. They are available from TransGo as a set.

 

I will look into both of those. Thanks for the suggestions.