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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 11:13 AM
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RICHMC54
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From: spanaway wa.
cranking

after a seven year restoration I finally tried to start my 1968 F-100 I need help----- what would cause the starter to engage when turning the key on the first position??? I cant figure it out
 
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 12:54 PM
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elgemcdlf
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From: Alton, MO
You are sending voltage to the solenoid (start) when in the run position (switch). Did you replace the wiring in the truck?
 
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 01:10 PM
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From: spanaway wa.
no I think I hooked every thing back the way it was---new Ignition switch, new regulator. new solenoid I tried reversing coil wires every thing else works (except turn signals)
 
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 01:22 PM
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The coil has nothing to do with it. The only thing that makes the truck crank is voltage passed to the S terminal of the solenoid. You probably need a new coil now. The - side of the coil should be connected to the distributor. How many small wires do you have connected to the solenoid? 1 or 2.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 01:47 PM
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It is probably the wrong ignition switch. I had this issue when I put a 72 ignition switch in an earlier truck.
The coil will be fine, just make sure it's connected properly or spark output will be reduced.
If the wires weren't connected properly at the solenoid it wouldn't crank. There should be two small terminals, one is the input to engage the solenoid, the other is an output to bypass the resistor wire during cranking to provide a better spark.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 02:05 PM
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From: spanaway wa.
I will look at the switch, I thought it looked Identical to the one I took out--- I still have the original
 
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 02:24 PM
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From: Alton, MO
Originally Posted by Ford_Six
It is probably the wrong ignition switch. I had this issue when I put a 72 ignition switch in an earlier truck.
The coil will be fine, just make sure it's connected properly or spark output will be reduced.
If the wires weren't connected properly at the solenoid it wouldn't crank. There should be two small terminals, one is the input to engage the solenoid, the other is an output to bypass the resistor wire during cranking to provide a better spark.
You don't need any of the small wires connected to the solenoid to make it crank. Simply jump from the hot side (battery) to the S terminal. Solenoid engages, engine cranks. If he has a hot in run positioin wire connected to the terminal on the solenoid it will crank in the on position. This is assuming the ignition switch is correct.
 
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