Need 351W valve adj. directions - Chilton blows
Never mind, I just got this all figured out refering back to some older manual pages that were sent to me. Positive stop - torque em' down and be done with it.
Sory for all the hassle, I blame Chilton. All the info was there, but organized in a rather unusual manner that didn't become clear untill I compared the two different sets of instructions and sorted it out.
So in closing... to avoid future headaches could anyone reccomend a shop manual that might be a bit better than a Chilton or Hayes?
I appreciate all the help. Thanks!
Sory for all the hassle, I blame Chilton. All the info was there, but organized in a rather unusual manner that didn't become clear untill I compared the two different sets of instructions and sorted it out.
So in closing... to avoid future headaches could anyone reccomend a shop manual that might be a bit better than a Chilton or Hayes?
I appreciate all the help. Thanks!
The "just torque 'em down" method is NOT the correct way ESPECIALLY if any work has been done on the head.
On a pedestal mount valve train....which I assume you have...get the cylinder you're working on at TDC.
Genlty tighten the rocker bolt to where it's gently making contact with the rocker and lifter....no slop on the rocker, but easy to spin the pushrod with your fingers.
You need to find the exact numbers, but from memory the torque is 20 pounds.
But the important part is that torque reading needs to be obtained between 1/4 and 1 turn of the bolt
If it tightens up too quick, you need longer pushrods.
If it takes more than 1 turn of the bolt you need to shim under the pedestal rockers until you get the torque between the 1/4 and one turn.
The above method ensures the preload is correct....not too loose to lose contact with the rocker and pushrod at higher RPM (been there....and I still have the hammered rockers somewhere to show for it) and not too tight as to cause a valve to be open before its time.
Lots of people have had no problen, doesn't mean it's the correct way.
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-6529-a302
Talk about holy thread resurrection, batman!!!
I just noticed the date of the OP!!! Lol!!
Well you know that old saying "there's more'n one way to skin a cat" ? That holds true here too. It's not a problem per se....
Of course the bolts will always torque down....whether you have too much or too little preload is what you're checking for.
30 minutes extra to make sure......
Reminds me of the saying:
never time to do it right, always time to do it over.
And how would you know if the parameters had changed enough???
I suppose it's the difference between an engine assembler and an engine builder...
There's also differences in people who are obsessive compulsive and regular guys too. Not every step in building a Nascar engine needs to be done in 99% of other builds. I built my 331 12 years ago and it's still going strong.
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