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Need 351W valve adj. directions - Chilton blows

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Old Nov 5, 2016 | 01:47 PM
  #16  
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caly350
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Originally Posted by bronzo
Never mind, I just got this all figured out refering back to some older manual pages that were sent to me. Positive stop - torque em' down and be done with it.

Sory for all the hassle, I blame Chilton. All the info was there, but organized in a rather unusual manner that didn't become clear untill I compared the two different sets of instructions and sorted it out.

So in closing... to avoid future headaches could anyone reccomend a shop manual that might be a bit better than a Chilton or Hayes?

I appreciate all the help. Thanks!


The "just torque 'em down" method is NOT the correct way ESPECIALLY if any work has been done on the head.


On a pedestal mount valve train....which I assume you have...get the cylinder you're working on at TDC.

Genlty tighten the rocker bolt to where it's gently making contact with the rocker and lifter....no slop on the rocker, but easy to spin the pushrod with your fingers.


You need to find the exact numbers, but from memory the torque is 20 pounds.

But the important part is that torque reading needs to be obtained between 1/4 and 1 turn of the bolt

If it tightens up too quick, you need longer pushrods.

If it takes more than 1 turn of the bolt you need to shim under the pedestal rockers until you get the torque between the 1/4 and one turn.

The above method ensures the preload is correct....not too loose to lose contact with the rocker and pushrod at higher RPM (been there....and I still have the hammered rockers somewhere to show for it) and not too tight as to cause a valve to be open before its time.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 10:53 AM
  #17  
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Gee, I've always torqued pedestal rockers down to 25 ft/lbs and never had any issues afterwards whatsoever.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 12:22 PM
  #18  
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caly350
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Originally Posted by baddad457
Gee, I've always torqued pedestal rockers down to 25 ft/lbs and never had any issues afterwards whatsoever.


Lots of people have had no problen, doesn't mean it's the correct way.

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-6529-a302

Talk about holy thread resurrection, batman!!!

I just noticed the date of the OP!!! Lol!!
 
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 04:26 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by caly350
Lots of people have had no problen, doesn't mean it's the correct way.!
Well you know that old saying "there's more'n one way to skin a cat" ? That holds true here too. There's often more than one solution to any problem, and who's to say what's right ?
 
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 04:51 PM
  #20  
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caly350
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Originally Posted by baddad457
Well you know that old saying "there's more'n one way to skin a cat" ? That holds true here too. There's often more than one solution to any problem, and who's to say what's right ?


It's not a problem per se....

Of course the bolts will always torque down....whether you have too much or too little preload is what you're checking for.


30 minutes extra to make sure......


Reminds me of the saying:

never time to do it right, always time to do it over.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 09:08 PM
  #21  
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Well unless he's milled the block or heads enough to change the preload parameters to where the lifters cannot adjust enough to handle that, it's an exercise in futility.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 09:56 PM
  #22  
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caly350
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Originally Posted by baddad457
Well unless he's milled the block or heads enough to change the preload parameters to where the lifters cannot adjust enough to handle that, it's an exercise in futility.
Well, I did write "especially if head work has been done."

And how would you know if the parameters had changed enough???


I suppose it's the difference between an engine assembler and an engine builder...
 
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Old Nov 7, 2016 | 05:13 AM
  #23  
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There's also differences in people who are obsessive compulsive and regular guys too. Not every step in building a Nascar engine needs to be done in 99% of other builds. I built my 331 12 years ago and it's still going strong.
 
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