Firing Order Problems
Cranky Old Guy
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,562
Likes: 6
From: Raphine, Virginia
Good suggestion. The cap and rotor go together and not interchangable. Make sure spark is getting all the way to plugs. If it is, then it's back to timing/fuel issue.
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Okay so I decided to start over and re-check EVERYTHING. Fuses good, firing order correct, bla bla. When I went to check the spark on one of my plugs, I noticed there was no spark this time. So I checked the coil with a plug, no spark . I'm getting 12V to the coil but no spark out of it 
. I even held on the the coil wire while cranking my engine expecting a good jolt but nothing. So my coil must be bad right?
. I even held on the the coil wire while cranking my engine expecting a good jolt but nothing. So my coil must be bad right?
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
From: Grand Junction, Colo.
Here try this and see if it helps ya a little bit.
This testing procedure is valid for most automotive coils. Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance between the side terminals of the coil. Do this with all of the wires to the coil disconnected. You should see 0.75 to 0.81 ohm of resistance. Then check the resistance between either side terminal and the center high tension terminal. The reading should be 10,000 to 11,000 ohms. Any significant deviation from these numbers would indicate that the coil is defective
This testing procedure is valid for most automotive coils. Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance between the side terminals of the coil. Do this with all of the wires to the coil disconnected. You should see 0.75 to 0.81 ohm of resistance. Then check the resistance between either side terminal and the center high tension terminal. The reading should be 10,000 to 11,000 ohms. Any significant deviation from these numbers would indicate that the coil is defective
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 41
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I DON'T UNDERSTAND WHY I'M NOT GETTING SPARK. I MUST BE OVERLOOKING SOMETHING!!!!!!
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 494
Likes: 0
From: Mountville PA
Just to double check this, Look at the diagram that AK FORD GUY posted just to make sure your using the #1 piston on the passenger side of the motor. I can't tell you how many people I've come across who thought #1 piston was on the driver side just like every other car manufacurer did it.
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2011
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Just to double check this, Look at the diagram that AK FORD GUY posted just to make sure your using the #1 piston on the passenger side of the motor. I can't tell you how many people I've come across who thought #1 piston was on the driver side just like every other car manufacurer did it.
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2011
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I tested it the old fashioned way with grounding a plug and watching for spark but I didn't see anything and remember I said I put a different coil in it. I'm bringing home a multi-meter tomorrow from work to check everything. What should I be getting coming out of the coil?
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 457
Likes: 7
From: Decatur, AL
Somebody help a brother out here, doesnt the ignition wires require some special resistance wire on it to work right? i know i have read that on this forum several times.
back to it:
If the PO was into it enough to switch over to a after market system you need to check the lesser thought of stuff.
1) does the pickup/stator/pickup assembly in the distributor itself have any water/oil/or worse water dispersant around or on it? The worst case is that someone has used a water displacer on a wet distributor that has actually broken down the insulation in the pickup assembly => no signal & no spark.
2) as was said on a previous post, IF the cam was replaced by a cam out of a 351W the firing order it now different. When you change from a 302W cam to a 351W it will bolt right in and have no problems EXCEPT that all Ford 351s carry a different firing order from the smaller Windsors. By swapping up to a 351W cam, you can get cheap duration and lift increases.
my two cents...
back to it:
If the PO was into it enough to switch over to a after market system you need to check the lesser thought of stuff.
1) does the pickup/stator/pickup assembly in the distributor itself have any water/oil/or worse water dispersant around or on it? The worst case is that someone has used a water displacer on a wet distributor that has actually broken down the insulation in the pickup assembly => no signal & no spark.
2) as was said on a previous post, IF the cam was replaced by a cam out of a 351W the firing order it now different. When you change from a 302W cam to a 351W it will bolt right in and have no problems EXCEPT that all Ford 351s carry a different firing order from the smaller Windsors. By swapping up to a 351W cam, you can get cheap duration and lift increases.
my two cents...
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