Did the power wires come off the coil. I had issues there before. Or possible reversal on those wires. ( not sure if that would matter )

 

Is it possible that you have the wrong rotor in there? If you have the small diameter caps' rotor in there then the spark can't jump the larger gap and I think it's shorter too.

 

Good suggestion. The cap and rotor go together and not interchangable. Make sure spark is getting all the way to plugs. If it is, then it's back to timing/fuel issue.

 

Okay so I decided to start over and re-check EVERYTHING. Fuses good, firing order correct, bla bla. When I went to check the spark on one of my plugs, I noticed there was no spark this time. So I checked the coil with a plug, no spark . I'm getting 12V to the coil but no spark out of it . I even held on the the coil wire while cranking my engine expecting a good jolt but nothing. So my coil must be bad right?

 

Here try this and see if it helps ya a little bit.



This testing procedure is valid for most automotive coils. Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance between the side terminals of the coil. Do this with all of the wires to the coil disconnected. You should see 0.75 to 0.81 ohm of resistance. Then check the resistance between either side terminal and the center high tension terminal. The reading should be 10,000 to 11,000 ohms. Any significant deviation from these numbers would indicate that the coil is defective

 

but coils area dime a doz borrow one to try it out you can also take you icm into schmucks and have it tested

 

That connector is good.

Wires are correct. I'm getting 12V going into the coil and the test light flickers on the negative side while cranking.

No, I haven't replaced it.

I did that but I'm still not getting spark from the new coil. I even ran a + and - straight from the battery.


I DON'T UNDERSTAND WHY I'M NOT GETTING SPARK. I MUST BE OVERLOOKING SOMETHING!!!!!!

 

Just to double check this, Look at the diagram that AK FORD GUY posted just to make sure your using the #1 piston on the passenger side of the motor. I can't tell you how many people I've come across who thought #1 piston was on the driver side just like every other car manufacurer did it.

 

That's not the problem. I've checked my firing order 10 times. Piston 1 starts on passenger side closest to me standing in front of the truck. Distributor rotates counter clockwise and firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. I checked the distributor cap with a continuity tester, good. I tested all my plug wires, good.

 

just posted it for people who might not have known. Did you check for voltage at the coil during cranking and with the key in the run position?

 

I tested it the old fashioned way with grounding a plug and watching for spark but I didn't see anything and remember I said I put a different coil in it. I'm bringing home a multi-meter tomorrow from work to check everything. What should I be getting coming out of the coil?

 

You should be reading numbers within the specs that "death85" posted above.

 

I was asking for the voltage at the small wire on the pos side of coil. Get your meter post your findings.

 

Hey iMetal, Did you get her running yet?

 

Somebody help a brother out here, doesnt the ignition wires require some special resistance wire on it to work right? i know i have read that on this forum several times.

back to it:
If the PO was into it enough to switch over to a after market system you need to check the lesser thought of stuff.
1) does the pickup/stator/pickup assembly in the distributor itself have any water/oil/or worse water dispersant around or on it? The worst case is that someone has used a water displacer on a wet distributor that has actually broken down the insulation in the pickup assembly => no signal & no spark.
2) as was said on a previous post, IF the cam was replaced by a cam out of a 351W the firing order it now different. When you change from a 302W cam to a 351W it will bolt right in and have no problems EXCEPT that all Ford 351s carry a different firing order from the smaller Windsors. By swapping up to a 351W cam, you can get cheap duration and lift increases.

my two cents...