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Leaky gas tanks

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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 07:08 PM
  #1  
pdqtimetrialer's Avatar
pdqtimetrialer
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From: Cleveland
Leaky gas tanks

I have the 8 ft bed with dual tanks, 95- F150.

As luck would have it, both gas tanks started leaking in the past two months. I'm thinking just replacing one tank and not using the other since this is my spare truck. Is one gas tank easy than the other to replace?
 
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 07:26 PM
  #2  
Gomer1's Avatar
Gomer1
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I would make sure its your tanks leaking and not the filler tube, Sometimes if I am over full the filler tubes will leak where they attach to the tank
 
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 10:15 PM
  #3  
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mpc07005
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From: Milford, CT
Replacement is easy. Did mine in a couple of hours after getting the strops off. Read your Haynes for the steps. You might (probably will) need a special fuel line disconnect tool, they're cheep.
-Mike
 
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 10:24 PM
  #4  
IowanStraight6's Avatar
IowanStraight6
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From: Small town Iowa
Look at Mts tanks free shipping and proudly made in the united states there oily
 
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 07:32 AM
  #5  
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tanz45
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Both tanks are 80 a piece from Advance Auto Parts if you order online using the coupon code A123.

Just fix them both. Would help with the resale if it was a''full functioning'' truck. Plus you just never know when a fuel pump may crap out on you, be nice to have that back up tank.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 08:35 AM
  #6  
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nstueve
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From: Des Moines, Iowa
Keep in mind having a empty tank will help matters if your going in from the bottom. I have an obsession with removing my beds so I always pop the bed off b/c it allows axcess to other maintence items. If you can't run your tanks dry to drop them out the bottom I'd suggest pulling the bed syphening the gas out of both and replacing them at the same time. Also a good time to replace sending units if the gas guage on the dash doesn't work.

Also if your planning on keeping the truck for a while wipe the greasy coating off the tank, scuff with a scotch brite and coat the tank with rubberized undercoat or bed liner material.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 09:24 AM
  #7  
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kd0axs
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From: Nowthen, MN
Don't pull the bed to replace the tanks. That would be a waste of time because they have to come out the bottom anyway. I would pull the bed to replace just the fuel pump, but not the whole tank.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 09:43 AM
  #8  
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nstueve
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From: Des Moines, Iowa
just a personal preference to not have crap fall in my face the entire time ur swaping the tank(s). I know it's quicker to just drop them out the bottom (if close to empty!).

I was simply try to metion if you have more problems in the rear besides the leaky tanks... Now would be a good time to pull the bed, check/fix wiring, drop tanks, fix exhaust leaks, replace exhaust hangers, fix shocks and rear suspension... there is tons you can do easier with your bed off... And I did qualify it by saying "I have an obsession with taking the beds off."

really not needed for this tank swap but if you have other mechanicle issues in the rear, it's nice to pull and fix all at once...
 
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 10:16 AM
  #9  
Bankrupter's Avatar
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From: North Central MA
Originally Posted by nstueve
I was simply try to metion if you have more problems in the rear besides the leaky tanks... Now would be a good time to pull the bed, check/fix wiring, drop tanks, fix exhaust leaks, replace exhaust hangers, fix shocks and rear suspension... there is tons you can do easier with your bed off... And I did qualify it by saying "I have an obsession with taking the beds off."

really not needed for this tank swap but if you have other mechanicle issues in the rear, it's nice to pull and fix all at once...
I agree nstueve. I did both last night from 6:45 to 9:15PM (that includes filling one tank shop clean up and putting the truck back outside.) on a 94 rust bucket with a run back to the parts store and coffee shop -30 mins... Hoping I could get the 19 in where the 16 side tank was.. Fail! Stupid cross member was laughing at me the whole time and I didn't hear it. Now I know you cant lol. All hardware was rusted up tight. I have an inductor for safe heating of the bolts next to the tank/lines (I flash cool them too) ... Lost only one strap bolt to the sawzall. Good luck getting that in there with the bed on if you need it. Could use a whizzer but then its sparks galore at leaking tanks and banged up cross members if you slip ... Not good. I paid 60 for the side and 62 for the rear (shop discount.) With the bed on it would have been a nut cracker (if that fit) and vulgar language adding a good hour. Bed was pulled for more reasons then just the tanks though... Shop manual is 1.5 and 1.9 hours for the job.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 10:59 AM
  #10  
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nstueve
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From: Des Moines, Iowa
every time I go to fix 1 thing on my rusty old trucks I find 2 more things that i should/could fix. Especially when it comes to things like the gas tanks, and rear suspension. I will always vote for removing the bed if I am going to be under the truck more than 5 mins! My truck is rusty and every time I turn a wrench or try to crank/pry something loose rust flakes and plenty of dirt fall into my face... my truck isn't a trailer/garage queen so she's not afraid to take a big old rusty dirty poo right on you! LOL...

Plus bankrupter is right... tight clearances are a beeoch to get tools into.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 05:30 PM
  #11  
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GHeTTo JOe
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From: 50450 IOWA
Originally Posted by kd0axs
Don't pull the bed to replace the tanks. That would be a waste of time because they have to come out the bottom anyway.
IowanStraight6 and i took his bed off to take his rear tank out and his new one fell right in from the top? we did have to use couple bars to "pop" the old one out but it was junk anyways
 
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