I am going to help a friend change out the ball joints, upper and lower, both sides.

I have seen that the upper is typically done by replacing the whole arm, I don't plan on doing this.

So, with a press and new ball joints, are there any nice tips from you all?

Looking for helpful info before I get into it. I did a search and have not found a thread like "ball joints-how to".

It's easy to find how to threads in the super duty sections, I wish you guys had a better tech folder!

Thanks for any advice.

 

Other than being a 2003, no vehicle details or specs are listed on your description. GL

How To: Upper Control Arm / Ball Joint Replacement (Lots of Pictures) - Ford Explorer Ranger Enthusiasts "Serious Explorations"®

Lower Ball Joint Replacement How To (lots of Pictures) - Ford Explorer Ranger Enthusiasts "Serious Explorations"®

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pd...ol_Arms_En.pdf

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pd...K10_106_En.pdf

 

Thanks for all the info. Really appreciate it.

Based on my research in looking up part numbers, looking at exploded diagrams (parts guyed.com) it appears to me that 2wd or 4X4 does not make a whole lot of difference regarding the process, so, I did not specify. It is a 4X4 XLT 4 door with the V8 engine.

I also spoke with a buddy of mine at the Ford dealership in town, he told me that they always replace the upper arm. He also said that he would not mind re using the existing upper arm but that it generally gets marred in the process so it may not be pretty. And, he was not concerned about whether or not it was a 4X4 or not, which engine, or how many doors.....

 

replace entire upper are and ball joints....so that u get NEW bushings replacemement of upper arm as well. better for alignment to...much better.

 

Im not sure the factory upper A frame can have the ball joint changed out. If you buy AFTERMARKET Moog or similar frames and ball joints, you can press them out the SECOND time. Dont think you can remove the factory joints and press Moog into that hole (on the top). Moog will work fine on the bottoms.

 

Confirmed on this previously posted link:

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pd...ol_Arms_En.pdf

• OE design is non-serviceable.

ATTENTION FLEET CUSTOMERS: Unlike the OE non-serviceable control arm with ball joint, MOOG control arms
feature a serviceable cartridge-style ball joint when severe duty vehicle usage warrants its replacement

EDIT- Apologies. 2002-05 FOUR door Explorers DO have replaceable upper ball joints. See link below for R&R tutorial.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...ctures.249135/

1995-01 Explorer four-door, 2001-03 Sport Tracs, and 2001-03 two-door Sports require new upper control arms if original.

 

You can get the Motorcraft OEM sealed ball joints for the lowers and press them in you current a-arms if this is the first time. Not to bad a job if you have the tool. Autozone and Advanced auto both have the tool as a loaner. If its been done before the "hole" maybe to big.

I know others will disagree but I would not get the aftermarket ball joints that are not sealed. I did on one side and its been a PITA ever since. The other side I did with the sealed. Lasted 2 twice as long and I never had to grease it. The aftermarket one had a unsealed cup and I think dirt and other road trash got in. I live in a bad area ... north east on a dirt road so I'm tough on the underside.

Having said that, if your going to keep the truck for a long period I would replace both the upper and lower arms and stabilizer end connectors. Again I recommend going with motorcraft. Cost a little move but I have had much better luck with them. Rockauto has most of it and you can google a 5-15% coupon.

Good luck!

 

Re reading these old posts promted me to respond.
I just did the upper and lower ball joints on my 2004 explorer 4 X 4.
1. The upper ball joint can be pressed out and replaced; however for a few dollars more it is cheaper to replace the entire arm. Along with this you do get new upper bushings.
2. Rent a ball joint press form your local auto parts store.
3. have a torque wrench handy to re torque all nuts back to spec.
4. on my 2004, i had to buy a 29MM deep socket to loosen/ remove the axle hub nut.
5. remove the brake caliper frame from the backside of the hub, and remove the caliper. the caliper frame is held in place by 2 18MM head bolts. Support the caliper from the spring around the shock.
6. loosen and remove the upper control arm ball joint nut
7. remove the lower ball joint nut.
8. use a "pickle fork" and seperate the upper and lower ball joints from the spindle.
9. unclip the ABS wheel sensor and have planty of slack available
10. Lift off the spindle and place to the side kepping the tie rod intact.
use your prss and press thee ball joint out of the lower control arm.
11. There are two 22 MM nuts holding the upper are in place. Remove the bolts, and make sure you dont lose the shims that are underneath the frame rail.
12 lift the upper arm out.
Installation is the reverse of this.

a wheel alignment is recommended.

This job took me approx 6 hours. it would have went smoother is
1. i handn`t broken the ABS wheel sensor trying to remove it. Next time, i will unclip the sensor from its clips
2. make a seperate trip to get the upper control arm. i was not planning on doing the upper arm, but once i had it apart, i had to cut the old ball joint stud out. Being i`m not familiar with Ford, i assumed the ball joint stud would be fixed; its not. it must be held in place with a 5/16 socket while the nut was tightened.
Anywho, this is my education in doing this. This is a fairly easy project- just make sure you have proper tools and sockets