The 1996 F250 i just got sometimes won't start unless you fiddle around with the shifter at park. It will not start in neutral either. If you press it all the way to the left (park) it will start right up...SO...my question is: Adjust the neutral saftey switch on the transmission, replace it? or (i thought I saw or heard) there was an adjustment in the column. What is your guys best course of action/repair.Next question is the 3 screw auto hubs aren't engaging most of the time, should I just convert to manual hubs? What parts and special sockets would I need.I will be looking at a dana 60 solid axel today, but I'm not sure how to figure out the gear ratio on it, I think mine is 3.55.Thanks

 

What's the axle code on the door jamb?

I'd say if you're going to have the front end apart for the D60 swap, take the opportunity and throw in some Warn manual hubs. Even just having the "2wd low range" option (throw it in 4Lo, but don't lock the hubs), I'm surprised how often that's come in handy.

 

for the starting problem ,look here, under the dash...

 

Thanks I'm not worried about figuring my axle code but the axles I'll be looking at today, I may actually be able to get it for free there's at least two maybe more and one supposedly has been gone through...

Right now I'm trying to figure out my shift/start issue and there seems to be too many views on what to do, from taking apart the column to just readjusting the neutral safety switch.

 

Cool I did get under there last night and everything seems tight, but obviously it's not otherwise the shift lever would have that much play in it.

 

Try to tighten the two screws under the dash I had the same problem and those screws loomed tight but when I went to tighten them I got twofold turns out of the it made world of difference

 

If the purchase prospects aren't still on (or can't be associated with) the donor trucks, no door jamb sticker available, the diffs MIGHT have tags on them. The usual codes are:
4 10 = 4.10 open diff
4L10 = 4.10 limited slip
3 55 = 3.55 open
3L55 = 3.55 limited

You might see only the last three characters, such as "L10", since the tag is sometimes cut off and re-drilled for re-installation, and that wipes out the initial "3" or "4". Worst case, you can turn one of the axle shafts one turn, and count the number of turns of the input yoke (or driveshaft), and that will tell you the ratio at least.

 

Well the front ends are 4.10 so I guess I'll be swappimg to manual hubs on the 50.

 

OK if I have to do a conversion what kit with what hubs and don't I need a socket to remove the auto hub parts and a different socket to install the manual hub parts?ThanksAgain

 

Yet another question: are the rear drum independent from the rear axle, or rather do i have to pull the axles like i used to do on my 1967 to do the brakes.

 

OK I have some news and a question: the DANA 60 is 4.10 and so is my truck, however the bad news is it's not been rebuilt but been in a fire on one side...soooo...better to just convert my hubs OR redo the 60? If I have to redo the 60 I'll likely have to have it redone since I have no experience with axle rebuliding nor the space to do it.

My friend say hub conversion because the axle fixing will cost way more.

BTW I got under the dash and the torx screws were tight...so I adjusted the Neutral Saftey Switch on the tranny which actually was loose enough I could move it with sufficient force...I tightened it down closest to park. Was that right or wrong?

 

One "rough guide" test for alignment of the tranny switch - set the parking brake, turn the key to RUN and put it in Reverse, and go back and see if the reverse lights go on.

So you're trying to decide whether to put manual hubs on your existing D50, or install the D60, replacing whatever was damaged in the fire? That mostly depends on whether you really want the solid axle. If having a solid axle / D60 is important to you, it's probably worth the investment. They're not exactly getting easier to find as the years pass.

 

OK never thought of that.

 

There are also some nylon bushings in the shift mechanism, that I have replaced. Remove shrouds, drop column down, bushing is under a retaining cap.