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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

No Start after Head Gasket Replacement

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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 01:59 PM
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No Start after Head Gasket Replacement

As usual, I probably did something wrong. I've finally managed to get my 2005 F350 back together after several weeks of tinkering with it and waiting for parts and tools.

I've drained the batteries now trying to get it to start. I've tried for a few minutes, and it doesn't seem to want to fire at all. I'm guessing the problem may be with the injector harness plug under the injector controller. I though I got them all to click in....

Fuel is definitely getting to the filter. Is there anything else I should check or do? It's full of oil and coolant, and completely back together. I don't see anything obviously wrong. Would a no-start condition come about due to vacuum lines being connected incorrectly? I'm fairly certain I've got them connected correctly, but not 100% certain.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 02:04 PM
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the next thing I would be checking is the HPO

did you replace the stand pipes and dummey plugs and STC fitting

do you have a way to monitor ICP and IPR%

It does usually take a few to get the air out the HPO but if you have had it turning over for around 2 minutes or so inbetween resting that should be enough

Dont worrey about the vaccum lines they dont have anytrhing to do with it
 
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 02:13 PM
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Forgive my ignorance.

HPO? High-Pressure Oil?
ICP?
IPR%?
Stand pipes?
Dummy plugs?
STC Fitting?

Wow. I couldn't be more clueless.

I'm guessing that the "stand pipes" are the oil rail lines that go down into the block. No. They were not replaced. They were reused. The ones that came with my head gasket kit were not the correct type for my oil rail. I removed no plugs from the oil rail, so I didn't have to replace any plugs. If the STC fitting is the fitting on the passenger side valve cover, then no, it was reused.


Originally Posted by BLADE35
the next thing I would be checking is the HPO

did you replace the stand pipes and dummey plugs and STC fitting

do you have a way to monitor ICP and IPR%

It does usually take a few to get the air out the HPO but if you have had it turning over for around 2 minutes or so inbetween resting that should be enough

Dont worrey about the vaccum lines they dont have anytrhing to do with it
 
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 02:14 PM
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Mine took A LOT of cranking to get it started.

I think I drained my batteries twice.

Your getting "injector buzz" right?
 
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by rlandrum
Forgive my ignorance.

HPO? High-Pressure Oil?
ICP?
IPR%?
Stand pipes?
Dummy plugs?
STC Fitting?

Wow. I couldn't be more clueless.

I'm guessing that the "stand pipes" are the oil rail lines that go down into the block. No. They were not replaced. They were reused. The ones that came with my head gasket kit were not the correct type for my oil rail. I removed no plugs from the oil rail, so I didn't have to replace any plugs. If the STC fitting is the fitting on the passenger side valve cover, then no, it was reused.
STC fitting is on the HPOP, if you didn't remove the cover then you didn't get near it.

The Standpipes and dummy plugs should of been updated since you were in there at the time, Not something that has to be done, just would have been a good thing to do.

I reused my Standpipes and dummy plugs when I did the HG's on mine
 
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 02:22 PM
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Heres a good link for all the accronyms


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/821641-acronyms.html

You can use a DVM at the ICP sensor to see if your making High Press Oil
IIRC you need .8volt to start

and maybe I just have good batterys cuz Iv never had them go dead trying to restart it after the work and I forgot to fill the HPO reservoir last time I did the oil cooler
 
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 2006powerstroke90
Mine took A LOT of cranking to get it started.

I think I drained my batteries twice.

Your getting "injector buzz" right?
I'm getting fuel pump buzz. I'm not sure what injector buzz sounds like, but there's a period of buzzing after the glow plug light goes out and before the fuel pump buzz stops.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 03:18 PM
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Check your IPC sensor voltage while cranking. Make sure you're getting at least 500 PSI in the high pressure oil system to start. Need .8 volt as a minimum.

http://napaautotech-classsupport.com...ASTEST1WEB.pdf

In this PDF, your ICP is the right-side picture (on front of the passenger valve cover).

If you have good HPO pressure (or not), this is where you need to go

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...condition.html
 
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 12:03 PM
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I'm only getting about 0.019 volts. Does this imply a bad sensor, since it's way out of range. This wouldn't surprise me. The little white cage inside the sensor connector came out with the plug connector.

I'm not throwing any codes. The MIL is not on.

The IPR connector is connected to the IPR (I believe it's connected correctly, with the snap wire to the driver side). I can just touch it with my hand, but if I remove the injector control module, I might be able to manipulate it a little better. Is there a better access to this connector?

The instructions say to contact Ford for an IPR connector. Is there a part number for this? My Ford dealer is pretty useless without one. Anything else I should pick up while I'm there? It also says to connect a air pressure connector to the HPOR. Is that available from Ford?


Originally Posted by NewToDiesels
Check your IPC sensor voltage while cranking. Make sure you're getting at least 500 PSI in the high pressure oil system to start. Need .8 volt as a minimum.

http://napaautotech-classsupport.com...ASTEST1WEB.pdf

In this PDF, your ICP is the right-side picture (on front of the passenger valve cover).

If you have good HPO pressure (or not), this is where you need to go

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...condition.html
 
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 12:13 PM
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You getting .019 while cranking? Or with KOEO?
 
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by NewToDiesels
You getting .019 while cranking? Or with KOEO?
While cranking. 0.011 KOEO.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by rlandrum
While cranking. 0.011 KOEO.
That KOEO is too low.

If I understand, you're getting .019 while cranking? You should see .8 minimum for 500 PSI.

Try unplugging the ICP sensor and see if it will crank. If not, it sounds to me like you need to find an HPO system leak.

Are you getting any codes? Do you have a way to scan?
 
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by NewToDiesels
That KOEO is too low.

If I understand, you're getting .019 while cranking? You should see .8 minimum for 500 PSI.

Try unplugging the ICP sensor and see if it will crank. If not, it sounds to me like you need to find an HPO system leak.

Are you getting any codes? Do you have a way to scan?
I have a el-cheapo code scanner and a slightly less cheap scanner. The el-cheapo shows no codes, even after 30 seconds of KOEO. I haven't pulled out the other scanner since it buried in my toolbox somewhere.

I disconnected the ICP. It did not start. It produced code P2285.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 01:31 PM
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Where are the most common places for the HPO to leak? I'm guessing that the very low reading on the passenger side pressure rail suggests that my leak is probably near there.

Also, while cranking it almost sounds like it accelerates and slows down. Is that expected? Like don-don-dondon-don-don-dondon.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by rlandrum
I'm guessing that the very low reading on the passenger side pressure rail suggests that my leak is probably near there.
No Sir... That's not a good guess. The leak could be anywhere, but the 05 models notoriously leak at the STC fitting under the HPOP cover. There is an updated fitting that fixes the problem. There are good videos on You Tube that will help you, plus a ton of info in the tech folder.

Honestly, I would go back through the No Start checklist in the Tech Folder. Yes, your ICP voltage is way too low to start the motor, but double check your connectors, fuses, harness, etc. I'm sure by now you've looked at every connection 4 times, but use that checklist as a resource. You may get lucky and find something easy.
 
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