You'll want to replace that STC fitting anyway. They go bad at an alarming rate.

Yeah, you've got a good tool with the Scangauge.

 

I replaced the driver side rail with new stand pipes and dummy plugs. No change in the sound of the air. It still sounds like it's coming from beneath the pump.

Now I can't seem to get the oil filter out. I didn't crank down on it or anything when I installed, so I'm not sure why that is. I'm gonna go get a 34mm or 35mm socket and a oil filter wrench (the one tool I've never owned) so I can check for bubbles there.

I'm betting I screwed up when I installed the pump screen. The instructions I have show someone lowering it into place with the flat side down. I'm now wondering if the rubber "handle" side goes down and by incorrectly installing it if I crushed it into pieces or clogged up the drain when I tightened the oil cooler down, thus destroying the pump.

 

Handle side goes up and the bottom of the cooler pushes against it to keep it in place.

The oil filter socket is a 36mm and is about $7 for a craftsman.

 

I remove the oil filter and retested. The burbling sounds were louder, but I detected no bubbles in the oil within the oil filter housing.

It's clear I don't understand the various components involved. Is there a good write-up on the HPO system... basically, how does the LPO system feed the HPOP, how is the high pressure oil returned to the LPO sump, and how is the high pressure oil routed through the engine?

 

The IPR will do the same thing if its defective. If you had a way to change the duty cycle of it you could test it. On edit, I just saw where you tested it, my bet.....pump.

 

I'm struggling to understand how a head gasket change could cause the oil pump to stop working properly. It ran well enough prior to the head gasket work start perfectly every time.

 

Cranks but won't start. No Oil Pressure - TheDieselGarage.com

The above thread is one of the most comprehensive threads I've seen on tracking down a HPO leak, not once, but 3 different times in the span of a week or two. If you have time to read it - it will help you with understanding the HPO system. This guy has an 03 motor, but the principle is the same and the parts are only slightly different. Key difference being you have the STC fitting. His persistence is amazing and he has great insights as well. To me it was very informative.

Good question on the why it the the HPO system would spring a leak, be it STC fitting or HPOP. Ultimately, it's your truck and your time and your money and we're all typing on computers trying to use your eyes, ears, and fingers.

I have seen a diagram on the HPO system. Trying to find it.

 

I'm sure it's gotta be fustrating as hell.

But hang it there you'll get it

 

Thanks for that... I think I may know why now.

The air is flowing from the rail into the pump and out the inlet and burbling in the sump/screen area, I believe. This problem has most likely existed for some time, and through a clogged oil cooler, the leak was probably not bad enough to prevent the vehicle from starting.

I was surprised at the truck's seeming lack of power while towing, and it's slow acceleration, but attributed it to the difference between a two-wheel drive vehicle and a 4-wheel drive. It felt less powerful than my 2wd 2000 7.3, which almost always ran great. I'm guessing the HPOP was leaking the entire time and replacing the oil cooler, and possibly leaving the pump to drain empty for a month (and clearing the internal pump seals of clogged oil cooler debris), caused my no-start condition.

The burbling is louder with the filter off because that's the path of least resistance. Sealing the housing moves the air and burbling noise to the turbo oil feed.

I need a new HPOP. Suggestions welcome.

 

Sounds logical to me... Your truck will be a happy camper pretty soon.

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I received the new HPOP yesterday and installed it last night. I no longer hear any noise when the IPR is powered and the air line is connected.

The old pump that came off made a very disconcerting metal-on-metal clunking noise I'm not happy about. I drained it and have to ship it back to avoid a core charge, but does this sound normal? The new one was too stiff to turn by hand, so I'm the original was pretty well hosed.

Also, the IPR connector on the new IPR that came with the pump faces 180 degrees away from where it used to sit. It used to point rearward down at about 45 degrees and now points frontward up at 45 degrees. I'm concerned about the proximity of the wires to the exhaust inlet port. Is this the new preferred IPR connector location or should I use my old IPR?

BTW, thanks for all the help tracking down this no-start issue. I hope to get the turbo back in tonight and fire it up (finally).

 

You should be able to turn that back to where it was, atleast I was able to do that on mine....

Can't wait to hear the outcome

 

Probably not without stripping the threads or destroying the pump. I'm using an IPR socket tool, and I've torqued it pretty close to spec from feel. The nut has bottomed out against the pump surface, so I don't think forcing it is the right way to go.

 

I would probably use the old IPR valve, but for a different reason. I'd rather have a new spare, than an old spare.

I would think that the heat shielding over the connector would be enough protection for the connector. But I am definitely guessing on that one. My new IPR valve stopped in the same place you mention that your old one did. You can't turn it any further and you certainly don't want to under-torque it so that it's in the old position. Leak city...

I'm not much help on this one...

 

hope that all works out for ya....i have been reading up on this thread and it has given me some more insight for when i do mine...and looks like im not to far from you...lol