steering
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,055
Likes: 1
From: Surrey, BC, Canada
Holy crap.... I hate NAPA, only go there if i need a part in a hurry, and it's sunday (my store is closed).
The price is solid, my only real concern is the lack of any manufactorer information on the parts you are buying. No idea if they are high quality, or made in china. I'd get them to send you that so you can do a little research on the company. If it checks out, buy it and drive your truck like you stole it.
The price is solid, my only real concern is the lack of any manufactorer information on the parts you are buying. No idea if they are high quality, or made in china. I'd get them to send you that so you can do a little research on the company. If it checks out, buy it and drive your truck like you stole it.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 153
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From: va beach, va
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,055
Likes: 1
From: Surrey, BC, Canada
I want to say no, that the D60 was re-designed in 99, but I could be wrong. They don't look like eachother either. OBS's are straighter, while the 99+ has a bunch of dips and things along it.
Same site, correct parts.
http://www.thetireclub.com/ShopByVeh...6+Arms&mode=PA
Same site, correct parts.
http://www.thetireclub.com/ShopByVeh...6+Arms&mode=PA
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
From: va beach, va
yea i noticed the big difference with the bends. i think i figured it out. the newer ones have tie rods on the top. so it might actually be an upgrade compared to having them under.
mine:
99-04:
it looks like it would work just fine.
ill contact thetireclub and see if there isnt some kind of bundle package deal. the balljoints were cheaper on the bundle, so i dunno.
if i do have to pick out indivindual, what is 'From 4200lb Front Gross Axle Wheel Rating'? some have that and some dont. and some say ambulance package. what am i after?
mine:
99-04:
it looks like it would work just fine.
ill contact thetireclub and see if there isnt some kind of bundle package deal. the balljoints were cheaper on the bundle, so i dunno.
if i do have to pick out indivindual, what is 'From 4200lb Front Gross Axle Wheel Rating'? some have that and some dont. and some say ambulance package. what am i after?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,055
Likes: 1
From: Surrey, BC, Canada
I don't know enough about the newer D60 to weigh in on if the arms will work.
Honestly I'd walk into a hole in the wall parts store, and tell them what you have, and get them to look the parts up for you. The computer they have should only give parts that will work, and you can pick based on brand/price, without the hassle of hoping you get it right online. And hell if they give you the wrong part, just walk in and odds are they will give you the right one, and a good deal too usualy. The guys at my store know my truck when I walk in, and I generally phone in 90% of my orders now, and they get it right. After a few hiccups.... Dana 44 warn hubs? lol. Didn't even look at the size of them vs mine, till I got the truck home, up on stands, and the old ones off.
Sorry all my part ordering is with the D50, I've torn down and rebuilt my uncle's D60 enough times that I can do it with my eye's closed. Just never had to deal with ordering the parts. He always had them there waiting for me when I helped him.
Honestly I'd walk into a hole in the wall parts store, and tell them what you have, and get them to look the parts up for you. The computer they have should only give parts that will work, and you can pick based on brand/price, without the hassle of hoping you get it right online. And hell if they give you the wrong part, just walk in and odds are they will give you the right one, and a good deal too usualy. The guys at my store know my truck when I walk in, and I generally phone in 90% of my orders now, and they get it right. After a few hiccups.... Dana 44 warn hubs? lol. Didn't even look at the size of them vs mine, till I got the truck home, up on stands, and the old ones off.
Sorry all my part ordering is with the D50, I've torn down and rebuilt my uncle's D60 enough times that I can do it with my eye's closed. Just never had to deal with ordering the parts. He always had them there waiting for me when I helped him.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
From: va beach, va
depending on whos working when i walk into my autozone, i can get free stuff. im a frequent customer there. last time i got 15qts of oil, 2 filters and 2 gal of antifreeze. so i got 10qts of oil free and my $20 discount on my card.
im still debating on what to get. deff getting xrf balljoints and r1 concepts rotors/pads.
im still debating on what to get. deff getting xrf balljoints and r1 concepts rotors/pads.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,055
Likes: 1
From: Surrey, BC, Canada
Truth be told your drag link, and other bars should be fine, and all you need to do is replace the tie rod ends (Unless they are attached, I've seen both ways). All I did when I re-did mine. Hell I only replaced one tie rod end, and thats because I screwed up the threading when removing it. I just cut off the junk boots, cleaned the tie rod up nice, and dropped the engergy suspension dust boots on them, lubed them up nicely, and they run beautifully. Like $15 for 2 sets of 4 at my local store.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...Dust-Boots.asp
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...Dust-Boots.asp
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
From: va beach, va
thats the problem. the one that comes down from the pitman and ties onto the link between the two tires. the boot is torn on the ones thats permanently attached to the rod. then the one on the left tire is torn(simple replacement). i figure if i have to replace one whole drag link as it is, may as well do all of it.
honestly i havent even checked to see if theyre bad or not. i just noticed the torn boots with grease gobbing out lol
honestly i havent even checked to see if theyre bad or not. i just noticed the torn boots with grease gobbing out lol
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,055
Likes: 1
From: Surrey, BC, Canada
Theoretically if you replace the dust boots, unless the actual rod inside is trashed, easiest way to tell is, take it out, and rotate it. If it moves smoothly you should be fine, if it grinds and gets stuck. It's done.
I did the dust boots on mine, and they are running great 300km's so far without issue. (aside from the tie rod I screwed in one rotation to much.... Causes drag at speeds over 50mph. Gotta fix that)
Also I put the CORRECT link in the post above... My internet SHAT itself for some reason, and fighting with it, I put the wrong link in.
I did the dust boots on mine, and they are running great 300km's so far without issue. (aside from the tie rod I screwed in one rotation to much.... Causes drag at speeds over 50mph. Gotta fix that)
Also I put the CORRECT link in the post above... My internet SHAT itself for some reason, and fighting with it, I put the wrong link in.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
From: va beach, va
i do need to check them. ill pop them out and do that then. being i have both tires off i figured i couldnt do the 'turn the wheel and check for slack' check.
lol i saw that. its still not right either. the actual link still goes to the elder scrolls page
i copied and pasted and got the right page tho
lol i saw that. its still not right either. the actual link still goes to the elder scrolls page
i copied and pasted and got the right page tho
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,055
Likes: 1
From: Surrey, BC, Canada
...Sometimes these forums **** me off...
Link is fixed, and only if you had some means of restraining the axle in place.
The part number for your truck is 9.13101
Napa does carry them for sure, but check around and you might get them cheaper. Hope it works out, it's so much cheaper/easier/faster this way.
Link is fixed, and only if you had some means of restraining the axle in place.
The part number for your truck is 9.13101
Napa does carry them for sure, but check around and you might get them cheaper. Hope it works out, it's so much cheaper/easier/faster this way.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,576
Likes: 262
I think i have the same situation as you do just not near as bad. when i am driving i will somtimes have to turn the wheel to the right a little to maintain straight direction, then it will start to drift to the right and then i am good to straighten the wheel back out. it is not to the point of being dangerous though like yours sounds. My steering is easy to turn. the tires move as soon as the steering wheel starts to move as well.
not to hijack but when i have the steering all the way left or right against the locks my steering wheel kind of twitches a little bit and you can hear the ps pump kind of making some hissing noises other than the normal noises you get when you have the steering against the locks.
Any ideas on my twitching?
not to hijack but when i have the steering all the way left or right against the locks my steering wheel kind of twitches a little bit and you can hear the ps pump kind of making some hissing noises other than the normal noises you get when you have the steering against the locks.
Any ideas on my twitching?
irfreddy, check the frame where your steering gear box ataches to, they have been know to break or crack the frame in that area, also make sure the 3 bolts are tight.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 178
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ok I'll start at the beginning. It sounds to me like you either have a bad TRE, but I didn't see if you posted whether they were good or not? Somebody posted they should move freely and smooth - sorry but this is not correct. A tight serviceable joint should be stiff, and hard to move around.
If the TRE's are good, something nobody mentioned here is that when the gears in the box wear they can be relashed. If you look down on the top of your box from the engine bay you will see a jam-nut and sloted stud, this adjusts the gear lash, do not over tighten or it'll cause accelerated wear on the gears.
As for the power steering pump, the above post pretty much sums it up, but to further it, its the nature of the beast with the C2 pump. The kicking could also be due to the belt not being tight enough, but the hissing is just how the C2 pumps are, they are junk pumps. You can do a saginaw conversion fairly easy.
Let me know if you need anything else.
If the TRE's are good, something nobody mentioned here is that when the gears in the box wear they can be relashed. If you look down on the top of your box from the engine bay you will see a jam-nut and sloted stud, this adjusts the gear lash, do not over tighten or it'll cause accelerated wear on the gears.
As for the power steering pump, the above post pretty much sums it up, but to further it, its the nature of the beast with the C2 pump. The kicking could also be due to the belt not being tight enough, but the hissing is just how the C2 pumps are, they are junk pumps. You can do a saginaw conversion fairly easy.
Let me know if you need anything else.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
From: va beach, va
took off the tie rod and draglink.
1. moog problem solver. very tight, feels like the new ones i put on my exploder.
2. unknown. not as tight as a brand new joint, torn boot.
3. unknown. same condition as #2
4. TERRIBLE. a cricket jumping off of it would make the joint move. it take no effort at all to move that joint.
so it looks like i need the whole tie rod from knuckle to knuckle. due to #4 being built into the rod.
#2 and #3 can prob be salvaged with new boots.
#1 is fine.
1. moog problem solver. very tight, feels like the new ones i put on my exploder.
2. unknown. not as tight as a brand new joint, torn boot.
3. unknown. same condition as #2
4. TERRIBLE. a cricket jumping off of it would make the joint move. it take no effort at all to move that joint.
so it looks like i need the whole tie rod from knuckle to knuckle. due to #4 being built into the rod.
#2 and #3 can prob be salvaged with new boots.
#1 is fine.
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