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Old Oct 19, 2011 | 07:09 PM
  #16  
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^ please post that pic.


i havent been able to get to mine, its dark when i get home and i wont be here to do anything until next week now
 
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Old Oct 19, 2011 | 07:11 PM
  #17  
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Haha, yeah I shat the bed on that one, took the photo's and forgot they were on cell, was just getting around to uploading them, and you post at the same time. Will be up in a few minutes.

EDIT:
Took a few more photo's than needed, but it'll help give you a better view of everything.

This is the steering shaft assembly, connects down at the steering box, goes through the firewall, and connects to the steering wheel. You will need to remove the PS pump to get at everything, and I honestly couldn't remove the hose that connected the steering box to the PS pump until it was on my tailgate. There is enough space to feed them both out the bottom, though you will have to fiddle, and lose a bit of skin on your knuckles.


Here is where it connects to the steering box, the link is covered by the flex rubber crap (This is before I thought to get my flashlight out), it's a 1/2" bolt holding it in place, later photo will show the connecter. Found it best to use a deep socket, 2 6" extenders, and a metal pipe on the end of the ratchet to get the torque needed to take it off, not enough space in there to get a good enough turn to break it loose.


This is where it goes through the firewall. Nothing fancy.


Where it comes out the other side of the firewall, agan nothing fancy, just good to know.


The connector, again a 1/2" socket, just a pipe on the end of a ratchet to get it to break loose.


Panaramic view of the underside of the dash. With the bolt I refered to in the last photo, nice and visible.

If you need anything more specific, let me know and I'll go grab the photo. Not sure what your looking to replace.
 

Last edited by SnuffthePunkz; Oct 19, 2011 at 07:23 PM. Reason: I'm a knob...
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Old Oct 19, 2011 | 08:17 PM
  #18  
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thank you.

im guessing you just didnt get a pic of it, but i thought everyone was telling me where the shaft meets the steering box?
i will check the coupler under the dash tho, just incase
 
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Old Oct 19, 2011 | 08:39 PM
  #19  
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That was the dark photo, can get at it with a flashlight if you need it, but it's the exact same coupler as under the dash. Minus the pivots for the steering wheel tilt.


It is keyed, so it can only go on one way. Kinda like this...


Forgive my ghetto MS Paint skills.
 

Last edited by SnuffthePunkz; Oct 19, 2011 at 08:40 PM. Reason: Photo was upside down...
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 06:48 PM
  #20  
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sorry for lack of updates. havent had much time to look at it lately. i did try and tighten the bolts on the steering wheel side tho. they seem tight to me.

snuffthepunkz: by taking off the plastic wheel well is that how your: "deep socket, 2 6" extenders, and a metal pipe on the end of the ratchet" comes into play?
 
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 07:10 PM
  #21  
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No it was after the power steering pump was taken out of the way, leaning into the engine compartment to remove the gear box from the steering shaft assembly. The gearbox I got was from a 90, instead of a 92 so the steering shaft assemblies were different, which required the whole thing to be taken off to change it over.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 07:26 PM
  #22  
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i guess ill just get my lazy *** out there tomorrow and figure it out then lol

if this isnt it... steering box is bad?
 
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 08:01 PM
  #23  
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Bring somebody with you, and have them turn the steering wheel while your inspecting it, have them move it the length of the play and see what moves and what doesn't. Find out where the play is, and you'll have an answer.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2011 | 05:50 PM
  #24  
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i got access to one of the bolts and it wouldnt turn, so im assuming its tight. couldnt see a 2nd one, didnt turn the tires to try to. i turned the shaft by hand and got a little spinning back and forth from it, not much.

just because... could a mix of a bad alignment and horrible tires do it?
i have micky baja belteds, i hear they dont do so well on the road. and they look like this..
drivers


passengers



could that be it, maybe? i have new tires, had em for awhile just havent bought the wheels for them yet
 
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Old Nov 12, 2011 | 07:04 PM
  #25  
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When's the last time you serviced your front axle? balljoints, ujoints, tie rods, axle pivot, etc?
As for the messed up tires, mine looked like your first one whe I bought this truck. Didn't affect tracking or steering, only time it caused problems was when I tried to stop at high speeds, my tires wouldn't grab properly and would toss me around the road if I wasn't holding on tight.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2011 | 07:10 PM
  #26  
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dont know. i bought it late july. i havent done anything to the suspension.
all i know is i took the passenger front tire off to fix a flat and 'tested' the 4x4 by locking a hub and spinning the rotor, it worked. but ever since then i have a scraping sound while moving 15mph+
 
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Old Nov 12, 2011 | 07:19 PM
  #27  
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My truck only scraped when I had a problem with my disc brakes, or the dust shield on the inner wheel well. Both trashed my rotor something fierce. I would highly recomend taking it apart and looking at it.
But I would get that axle serviced, likely fix 80-90% of your issues. Problem with these older Dana 60's is you could have a snapped axle shaft and it would still drive, they are so tough people don't bother to service them, which as a result.... Causes them to fail. My Dana 50's in the same boat, rebuild time.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2011 | 07:36 PM
  #28  
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maybe there is something in there. it had been sitting while the tire was flat. when i got it off the rotor has srface rust except where the pad was. when i spun it i figured that was the sound then. but its been driven enough now to not have any.
i dont think my passenger shaft is busted, i locked the hub and saw the driveshaft spin.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2011 | 08:04 PM
  #29  
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My dust shield found a way to bend in on itself and wedge itself between the rotor and the brake pad. It was a MESS...
Not saying your shaft is broken at all, just saying these trucks can still run with one broken. It was an absurd example of the durability.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2011 | 04:45 PM
  #30  
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as far as the sound. my drivers rotor is trash now. inner pad is DEAD. even the spring clip thing decided it was a good idea to bounce before it got trashed lol

what rotors/pads combo on ebay is good? i know for my explorer i got some drilled and slotted R1's on ebay and they work awesome. but whats good for the f350? i dont see and R1's for it, so i dunno what to go for.
keep in mind i dont wanna pay $500 for a set either. $250 tops.


and as far as my steering, i think ive figured it out. my left tierods boot is trashed, so is the tierod most likely. same with the tierod from the draglink coming from the pitman arm, the one thats built into the draglink on the passenger tire side.
and my upper drivers balljoint seems bad. i can lift the boot up with my finger, but its not rotted or torn. that explains why my drivers tire looks so bad
 
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