I have a Diablo Preditor Scanner and I know its not the greatest tool out there but i dont have acc. to my friends garage right now to put it on his. So I was wondering if there is any body here how can tell me if they see something wrong with the following details?
101.0 KPA baro pres. sensor 347 KPA baro pres sensor 3.42v Baro volt 100% fuel pump duty cycle
9.60 Injector pulse width- single bank eng 4.00 MPA inj ctrl pres .86v Inj ctrl pres actual-volt 90F Intake air temp 2.64v Intake air temp-volt 105.8 KPA manifold ABS 1.39v Map volt .33v Lowest idle thrtl pos

 

The reason Im asking you all no truck is running like S__t! Yesterday I decided to throw the batteries on the charger and I noticed that one batt was fully charged but the other one wasnt. charged that batt for alittle while and fired her up. I noticed right away the truck sound alot better. not 100% but alot loader then I have been discribing.took it for a drive and it run so much better then it did for the last 6 months still again not 100% but def alot better. Within a few hours it was back to running like crap again! while driving the truck when it was running good I monitored the INJ CTRL PRES VOLTS and noticed they where climbing alot more then they are now while runnig poorly. O yeah the scanner info above is at idle.

 

Sorry one more thing! 14.1 veh power volt, 5v veh ref volts, batterys are Deka's and only about a year old and took then back the place i bought then and then checked and they said they where fine. I have been over all the grounds also in the last week. Every time I check Ficm volts are always showing 47v

 

Even during start?

 

I dont know how to read those numbers you posted but MAP,BARO,EBP should ALL be the same at KOEO

this one confusing me was one at idel and the other at High Idel
101.0 KPA baro pres. sensor 347 KPA baro pres sensor

is this your MAP reading?????
single bank eng 4.00 MPA

 

Thats is how it was reading at idle at normal operating temp. I listed then in order they where displayed on the scanner (1st) was 101.1 KPA Baro pres sen. (2nd) was 347 KPA baro pres sen. (3rd) was 3.42v Baro volt. dont think i can read EBP with this tool.

 

have you unhooked the battery cables and checked for continuty

you also might waant to hydro test the batterys individual cells Iv heard of them putting out the correct voltage with a bad cell

any codes???

 

1 battery was fully charged an the other one wasn't? That's a problem. Wired in series, they should equalize pretty quick after installation. I would be suspicious of the connections if they were individually load tested and were ok.

 

I have no idea what these test you speak of are. all I know is the auto electric store I bought them from said they checked out fine. they toook the truck out back and I have no idea what they performed. All I no is when I charged that battery the other day for about a hour the truck ran so much better then it has been, again not 100% but it sure felt good to have some power! Just a thought is it any way possible that when I charged the battery that the extra volt/amp what ever applies maybe caused my fuel pump to pump harder or faster and that is my problem a week fuel pump? it is absolutely mind boggling that this truck is running so **** poorly and its not throwing a hint of a code! its sounds like its doesnt even want to stay running, like engine rpm's show 650-660 ish but you can barely her it running and no turbo whistle.

 

Ok lets clarify some things

Hydro test the Batterys

a hydro tester for a battery is just like the tester that you would use to check your antifreeze but it will test the battery cell


pull the battery caps off and test each cell individualy

on continuty

What is continuity?<!-- InstanceEndEditable -->
<!-- InstanceBeginEditable name="text" -->You might be asking, "What is continuity?" But don't worry, it's quite simple! Continuity means, are two things electrically connected. So if two electronic parts are connected with a wire, they are continuous. If they are connected with cotton string, they are not: while they are connected, the cotton string is not conductive.
You can always use a resistance-tester (ohmmeter) to figure out if something is connected because the resistance of wires is very small, less than 100 ohms, usually. However, continuity testers usually have a piezo buzzer which beeps. This makes them very useful when you want to poke at a circuit and need to focus on where the probes are instead of staring at the meter display.
For some basic circuits you can just look to see where the wires go to determine continuity but it's always wise to use a multimeter. Sometimes wires break or you're tired and can't easily follow all the PCB traces. I use continuity check all the time!
<!-- InstanceEndEditable -->
<!-- InstanceEndRepeatEntry --><!-- InstanceBeginRepeatEntry --><!-- InstanceBeginEditable name="Header" -->What is it good for? <!-- InstanceEndEditable -->
<!-- InstanceBeginEditable name="text" -->Continuity is one of the most important tests. Here are some things it is good for

• Determine if your soldering is good. If your solder joint it is a cold solder connection it will appear connected but in actually it is not! This can be really frustrating if you are not experienced in visually detecting cold solder joints
• Determine if a wire is broken in the middle. Power cords and headphone cables are notorious for breaking inside the shielding, it appears as if the cable is fine but inside the wires have been bent so much they eventually broke.
• Making sure something isn't connected. Sometimes a solder joint will short two connections. Or maybe your PCB has mistakes on it and some traces were shorted by accident.

 

[quote=1bad04;1091756 Just a thought is it any way possible that when I charged the battery that the extra volt/amp what ever applies maybe caused my fuel pump to pump harder or faster and that is my problem a week fuel pump? .[/quote]

I think that if your down on volts from bad Batterys,battery wire,weak alternator that when you did charge it up and had GOOD Voltage your FICM was firing the injectors like it should I dont think it had anything to do with yoour fuel pump

If you are having voltage issues yoour FICM has to work extra hard to fire the injectors and maynot be firing them all when down on volts
Becareful a voltage problem can take out your FICM

but if you suspect a weak fuel pump check your fuel pressure

 

If the batteries are "hot" enough to start the truck without any booster or jumper cables, and the battery light on the dash isn't lit when it's running, I would put the batteries back on the charger and see if it runs good again. If so, clean all the battery connections and check the. Ground cables too. They are between the front of the engine and the frame on the underside of the truck. One on the drivers side and two on the passenger side. Put a wrench or socket on them and loosen them up and re-tighten, or better yet take them loose and clean up the mount areas with a wire brush. Sounds alot harder than it is. (except for getting trash in your eyes )