First off, welcome to FTE. How did you figure out your inter-cooler was bad? And do you remember which sensor you had to replace? The turbo, CAC boots and inter-cooler are pretty tightly related...so I question all three different ones going at separate times. The boots do wear out (oil vapor from the CCV doesn't help) and the unison ring & vanes have been known to stick if the truck isn't worked. But not many guys have had to replace an inter-cooler (except those of us that have had heavy front end damage). Is it safe to assume your using OEM spec'd filters (Ford, Navistar or Racor brand). The dead as a hammer could be a couple of things. You could pick up a ScanGauge II from AutoZone/Amazon and it will allow you to read codes; regardless if the CEL is lite or not. If you really want to spin your own wrenches and diagnosis any problem the truck might have...you really should pick up an AutoEnginuty with the Ford Enhanced Bundle. The best price your going to find is Clay @ RiffRaff:

Riffraff Diesel: AutoEnginuity Total Ford Enhanced Bundle

There is allot of knowledge about the 6.0L in this forum. I'm pretty sure if it can happen to a 6.0L; someone has dealt with it in this forum.And the choir said AMEN! They all have issues, thanks to our "friends" in the EPA.As long as it doesn't contain alcohol, you should be ok. Just like oil, fuel additives are like the style & brand underwear...everyone has their opinion which is better/best. I've been running Diesel Kleen for 4 years...white in the winter (temps below 45F) and grey for all other times. About 6 months ago I started mixing Opti-Lube into see if (A) "oil up" the fuel and (B) to see if it would help with mileage. I've noticed a slight improvement...but I wouldn't say it's the cure all additive to fix all fuel problems/issues.

 

What EGR delete did you go with? An aftermarket or fabricate your own?

 

I bought mine from a friend that works at Ford, I think he took it off of another 6.0L, it was just the straight pipe for the exhaust and the J pipe to reroute the coolant, pretty basic looking. I left the egr valve in place and plugged in, although it did have a block off for that also.

 

well the results are in!

oil pump is shot. Only putting out 250 lbs while cranking to start. Curious thing was ...no warning, no codes, no nothing. just flat stopped!

 

zhilton, thanks for the insights. as far as the intercooler, the FORD dealership mechanic said it was seeping/ leaking so they suggested changing it. the sensor was on the drivers side toward the front end of the motor. all the work has been done by FORD wrenches. the truck has never been wrecked .

 

It happens... Mine was putting out 7 PSI when it died (no codes either). A far cry from the 800 needed to start the truck.

You'll want to do the air test to verify it's the pump though. Could be something else leaking like you stand pipes or dummy plugs. If you need the procedure. let us know.

 

No problem, I was just wondering if someone is throwing parts at the truck...or if those are real issues that were corrected/repaired. It has happened several times before with these engines is the only reason I asked. Sounds like EBT was the sensor they replaced.Sounds like the seal went, just like the lifters..$10 part shuts down a $10k engine

 

$10 part inside a $700 pump... LOL

 

in my opinion, i tink it could be ur HPOP. most of the time tat i've seen, especially during testing, the 6.0 may sound like it's cranking strong, but in actuality, when u hook it up to a computer, u can see the volts dying as it's going along.

when work on the HPOP is done, better to do stc fittings, dummy plugs, etc.

might be ur ficm. hmmmm. back to work for me.

 

NTD... add to the $10.00 part LABOR!

whew!

 

Hmmmm......I would suspect a $40 STC fitting vs. a $700 pump. Regardless the labor is still the same.