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68 f250 shift collar?

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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 08:59 PM
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68 f250 shift collar?

My girl friend recently got a new 1968 ford f250 2wd 360 as her primary car. So currently the main issue is the steering column. While driving the truck, the shifter would not stay in park. The shift indicator is not even working. So in order to start the car, I have the grab the shift collar and turn it counter clock wise to were the transmission is in gear bypassing the actual shift ****. If i let go, it drops into reverse. I haven't been able to take apart the steering column. So from the sounds of this, and looking on the forum, does it look like I'm going to need to get a new shift collar? And is there a guide on how to install it? Either that or I might have to put the floor shifter in and I would rather not. Thanks guys, any help is appreciated as this is my girl friends main source of transportation.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 07:01 AM
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well, actually its easier and takes less time to drop in a floor shifter than swap the shift collar...depends on whether she wants a column shift I guess. getting to the shift collar isn't hard, buts it's a bear to repin the shift arm to the new collar which will need to be painted.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 02:29 PM
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She would like to keep in stock. Should i just order from lmc or kragen might have it?
 
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 06:02 PM
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Got mine from LMC, don't know about Kragen. Do your painting last cause you will scuff/scratch it up driving out the old keeper pin that holds the shift lever to the collar, and when you try to press the new pin into the new collar. Also be aware that the drive shaft collar is spring loaded...don't let it rise/jump up while you are doing the job or the pin/shaft that actuates your neutral safety switch on the top/back of the column will get knocked off...re-installing one of those is a REAL treat.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 11:55 PM
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Is there a how to manual? I get what your saying, but don't fully understand where and how to keep the pin from rising. Last thing i want to do is work hard, and not smart lol.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 03:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Curtis and Chrystal
She would like to keep in stock. Should i just order from lmc or kragen might have it?
Available from Ford

D5TZ-7228-A (replaced C5TZ-7228-B & C9TZ-7228-A) .. A/T Shift Collar / 1965/77 F100/350.

MSRP: $65.98 / FTE sponsor PARTSGUYED.COM price: $47.51 / PartsGuyEd = Horizon Ford in Seattle (Tukwila) WA
 
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 08:35 AM
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I got lucky and found this thread:
The FORDification.com Forums • View topic - Turn Signal Switch Replacement - tutorial
Did this the first time some 35 years ago as a teenager replacing a 3-on-the-tree shift collar...my old man was rough on stuff. Wasn't any easier the second time...earlier this year, but the link helped...hardest part is getting the turn signal housing back on right when you are putting it back together...that and keeping the column from popping up. Have a helper handy...3 hands definitely required.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by tmcalavy
The horn ring retainer (C2DZ-13A809-A) used 1961/70 is nylon, not plastic, and the T/S switch R&R tutorial left out some very important facts.

The tutorial truck is a 1969 = There are two different T/S switches.* One has loose individual wires, the other has wire connectors.

Loose wires: When each colored wire is removed from the connector, its location must be recorded, otherwise...if the new wires are installed in the wrong locations...you can kiss the new switch good-bye.

And a special tool is required to pull these wires from the connector.

There is a much easier way to R&R T/S switches w/loose wires that Ford techs used.

1) CUT the old switch wires off above the connector, leaving enough that their color codes can be determined.

Tape the wires together, tie a long piece of string to them.

2) REMOVE the switch from the column, tape the new switch wires together, tie the string to them.

3) PULL the string from the bottom of the column, the wires will feed easily down the column.

Now, remove each colored wire end from the connector, then replace with the each correct colored wire.

If this method isn't used, it can be a real b!tch feeding the new switches loose wires down the column, because they usually bunch up.

* There are two different T/S switches:

C9TZ-13341-C ~ Loose individual wires: 1965/66 F100/250 2WD / 1966 F100 4WD / 1967/68 F100/350 / 1969 F100/350 before serial number G30,001.

DOTZ-13341-B ~ Wire connectors: 1969 F100/350 from serial number G30,001 / 1970/72 F100/350.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 12:55 PM
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Right you are about the better method for the turn signal stuff...I used the method you described on my second foray into this job. Never had a problem with that...the real be-awtch was getting the two 7/16ths nuts/bolts that hold the turn signal assembly base to the rest of the column in place...ya gotta be an octopus for that to work out the first time. I'm sure you're right on track with the rest of the info...where were you 35 years ago when I was young, stupid and stubborn and needed a mallet to the head to understand all this? Probably wouldn't have mattered anyway back then.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 01:22 AM
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Originally Posted by tmcalavy
Right you are about the better method for the turn signal stuff...I used the method you described on my second foray into this job. Never had a problem with that...the real be-awtch was getting the two 7/16ths nuts/bolts that hold the turn signal assembly base to the rest of the column in place...ya gotta be an octopus for that to work out the first time.

I'm sure you're right on track with the rest of the info...where were you 35 years ago when I was young, stupid and stubborn and needed a mallet to the head to understand all this?
35 years ago, when I was 32, I was the back (shop) parts counterman at Crenshaw Motors Ford in LA LA Land.
 
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