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'93 2wd, standard instrument panel. Headlights and brake lights work fine. No instrument lights or taillights. The problem, at least with the dash lights, seems to be intermittent. My son has told me the dash lights are out, but they worked when I drove it later. I rarely drive the van. Is this a problem with the headlight switch? Other ideas?
I pulled all the fuses, and checked the bulbs in the taillights, and everything looked ok.
Last edited by 429CJ-3X2; Oct 6, 2011 at 07:19 PM.
Reason: more info
It does sound like the headlight switch. Do the instrument or tail lights flicker when you play with the switch? The stock circuit tends to overheat the switch, especially if you use the high beams often. However, that usually affects the headlight circuit itself. But it's possible that the other circuits may be affected.
Whether it is the switch or not, I would install relays to power the headlights, if you haven't already. They will take the strain off of the headlight switch, the wiring, the hi/lo switch in the steering column, and make the lights brighter.
Another possibility is a bad ground somewhere, and that's hard to find. See if you can get those lights to flicker by moving some wires under the dash.
The headlight switch on my Aero failed a couple of months ago. The headlights worked, but not the dash or the tail lights. Like a lot of Aerostars, the electrical connect was melted, but everything works okay once it was plugged back in.
Pretty sure I got a Motorcraft replacement from RockAuto.
New headlight switch fixed it.
I put off doing it last weekend in case it didn't go as simply as the manual indicated because I only had a couple of hours to do it. Figured on doing it this Friday, but when my daughter said she needed picked up at 8 instead of getting a ride home at 9 Tuesday, I had to do it in a hurry -mostly in the dark! Only problem I had was getting the **** off. Didn't know what type clip was used. Took about an hour total, including getting tools and lights out and put away.
Turns out the new switch didn't fix it. They went out again last night. When I checked it today, in daylight, I found a wire into the plug for the switch that's loose and not making good connection at times. It's a light brown wire - almost a pinkish tint - that controls the dash lights and taillights, for anyone else having the same problem. The loose connection explains the intermittent nature of the problem.
Yes, the headlight switch is undersized and is routinely overloaded, which causes the entire plug that attaches the harness to the switch to melt. The solution, other that to repair the plug (there are kits you can buy for this purpose), check on Roackauto.com under electrical connectors for your year/make/model, is to install a headlight relay harness. This harness takes the load of the headlights off the switch. It makes the switch and multifunction switch last longer, and it can make the headlights up to 30% brighter. You can make your own, though the premade ones are really so affordable that it makes little sense to try it yourself unless you already have most of the materials.
Thanks for the info on the relay and harness. Don't plan to upgrade this van, but will keep in mind if/when we get the '96 running. This '93 seriously needs to be retired asap. It has so many problems - functional, body, brakes, cosmetic, mechanical, etc, I could write a book. But, it keeps going. 191,000 miles with basically no care.
It's interesting that the stock headlight switch is not up to the job. That switch was used on millions of Fords - almost all Aerostars, Rangers, Explorers, F-Series pickups, E-Series vans, and some cars built between '91-97. Over 1000 Ford models. Not saying it isn't a problem. Our's has definitely been overheated.
I don't know if the other parts stores have this, but O'Reilly Auto Parts' website has a "Compatibility" tab for each specific part. Clicking on that tab will show all the vehicles that used that part. Good info to know when going to the salvage yard.
I think part of the problem is more use of higher output headlights today. Back in the sealed beam days, the low beams were 35 watts, while the high beams were 55 watts. More recent cars use 45 or 55 watt low beams and 65 watt high beams. The problem is exacerbated in cars that have fog lights that tap off of the low beam circuit. That's just too much current draw for the stock headlight switch. Relays will really help.
but O'Reilly Auto Parts' website has a "Compatibility" tab for each specific part. Clicking on that tab will show all the vehicles that used that part. Good info to know when going to the salvage yard.